Subs AND speakers behind the seat of my reg cab?

[Daven]

I am putting a 12" kicker comp behind my seat, and therfore will not be able to do the standard 6x9 aplication back there. So what are my options to have speakers in the back AND have the sub? The sub is in the typical behind seat box, amp i will try to put under the seats or wherever i can fit it (alpine v power).

I have not taken out the center console yet, but i am going to try and figure it out tomorow. Maybe i can put the sub in the center coming out between the 2 seats, and fit 6x9s in boxes on either side? If that does not work, what would you guys do?

Will it sound ok with just the 2 door speaker putting out the music? I assume it would sound pretty crappy just like that, but i havent done it so i figured i'd get your guy's opinions.

Once again, ANY opinions or options are greatly apreciated. Thanks for reading

 

[Daven]

Ok, so i went into my truck... started taking out the screws and such to remove the center console and just happened to look back to see that theres no way i could put something in the middle back there if i wanted to... For some stupid reason lol theres a random peice of metal that goes from the back wall and down to the floor. It is skinny and nothings attached to it. Cant just take it out or even bend it away. lol

So, looks like i will have to have the sub out directly behind the passenger seat. I picked the passenger seat incase i needed to push the seat up any, i drive a standard so that would be very anoying. So basically i am down to the only real options i have is now to just run the door speakers alone with a sub, or to find a way to put a set of speakers back there around the box. Any ideas?

 

[strvger]

well, if you live in southern California, Arizona, or New Mexico, you could cut holes and mount them in the bed, then cut holes in the cab and put in ports for the sound to come thru. flexible sealant around both ends of the ports and you're good to go. if you live anywhere where you get a fair amount of rain or snow, then you'll probably want a different option.
just a thought.

 

[Daven]

well, if you live in southern California, Arizona, or New Mexico, you could cut holes and mount them in the bed, then cut holes in the cab and put in ports for the sound to come thru. flexible sealant around both ends of the ports and you're good to go. if you live anywhere where you get a fair amount of rain or snow, then you'll probably want a different option.
just a thought.

Thanks for the opinion, its a good one. BUT... lol i live in canada so lots and lots of snow and other bad stuff. I'm basically stuck with the tiny little cab that i have lol I'll just be happy if this sub and box im getting fits

 

[strvger]

i'm glad you enjoyed the humor in my post. hope the box you ordered works well for you!

 

[Daven]

Thanks. Its a pre-owned setup that im buying from someone around here. The box should fit, but it will have to be directly behind the seat. So i will be keeping my eye out for ways i can put a set of speakers in the back still with the sub. But untill then i guess im stuck with the doors for now. I will be able to see my options more clearly when i get the box in the truck. Then i can see the different places to put it, how far over it could be moved over either way lol basically anywhere i can try to fit better sound into.

I get the setup on saturday. What i'm getting is a 12" Kicker CVR and an Alpine V Power amp. Both matching 400 watt rms and 800 peak. I love alpine amps, always been way clearer and crisp than any other brand. My friend ended up trading his 2200 watt rms Rockford Fosgate amp for a 1000 Watt rms (or so) because it sounded better.

 

[strvger]

my old reg cab has the bench seat. no way any kind of sub box is going back there. i do have an 8" powered sub all self-contained in a shallow box from way back in the 70's. might try to squeeze it under one side of the seat or the other. it's an old audiovox, but at least it doesn't rattle or vibrate so it's good. not the best option, but it will have to work for me.

 

[Daven]

my old reg cab has the bench seat. no way any kind of sub box is going back there. i do have an 8" powered sub all self-contained in a shallow box from way back in the 70's. might try to squeeze it under one side of the seat or the other. it's an old audiovox, but at least it doesn't rattle or vibrate so it's good. not the best option, but it will have to work for me.

Ya i have the bucket seats and i should have the room. It will be tight, but should fit. All else fails i can always push the passenger seat up to the dash haha. Will be a little uncomfortable, but ill have bass

 

[RangerDan99]

hey i got two 10inch memphis pr's back there in my reg cab 1999 ford ranger they make a custom box that fits perfectly with no mods done to the cab. with this set up and a 1400watt crunch amp they hit harder then the kicker 12'' comps. sorry to tell you that but only speaking the truth. and also if you plan on going bigger with the system plan on instaliing tweeters and different door speakers. i run a 5x7 alpine spf 507 2 ways. then added 2 tweeters above the seats it really hits hard. planing on installing 2 or 4 mids soon. and yes i still go wheeling with this truck. i just like to play music for the whole group while were out havin fun.

 

[Daven]

hey i got two 10inch memphis pr's back there in my reg cab 1999 ford ranger they make a custom box that fits perfectly with no mods done to the cab. with this set up and a 1400watt crunch amp they hit harder then the kicker 12'' comps. sorry to tell you that but only speaking the truth. and also if you plan on going bigger with the system plan on instaliing tweeters and different door speakers. i run a 5x7 alpine spf 507 2 ways. then added 2 tweeters above the seats it really hits hard. planing on installing 2 or 4 mids soon. and yes i still go wheeling with this truck. i just like to play music for the whole group while were out havin fun.

Ya im just starting out on my audio stuff. I will eventually upgrade of course. Tomorow i pick up the sub and amp stuff and will install soon. Found in town someone selling sony 6x9s in boxes for 30 bucks so i figured i would put up with explodes secretly untill i get my new (actually good) speakers lol . Depending on how things fit, i am looking to get 2 12" subs. I found out today that alpine makes thin type Rs, and those are crazy. So i would love to get 2 of those back there instead.

So basically my plans are to get the single 12" Kicker CVR in between the seats facing outwards. Mount the amp under the seat (should be no problems there right?). Use crappy xlpodes untill i get new speakers. Then i want to get polk audio all the way around with the 6x9s and component 6.5"s. 6x9s in boxes also. I was going to try and mount in the dash facing the window because it seemed easy enough, but have heard of people mounting in the pillars. That would look sweet but i am worried about it sounding bad because i assume they wouldnt be the equal distance away from me as the other speaker components (Any suggestions?). Then i want to get a alpine 4 channel amp to power those respectively.

Maybe if space and finances permit, i could go crazy and get 2 of those 12" Type Rs. In this little regular cab i wont need much, so odds are i wont get that. Maybe one would be good and not too expensive.

Sound good?

 

[Daven]

So i bought my sub and amp stuff this morning. Then because i still hadnt been able to get out the center console, i went and parked outside canadian tire and proceeded to buy tools that "should have" fit. Then i finally got angry enough with it to just rip it out lmao. Then for the bolts i have like 2" of room to work with so that took a while.

Got out the center console and tried to put the box in, but it turns out that anoying metal peice is in the way. By like 3/4"! So now i need to figure out a way to cut it out inside the cab lol. I doubt there is a way, but i also will be taking out whatever i can on the back wall, floor, etc, to see if there could possibly be a way to just unbolt it

Anyone run into this little metal peice?

 

[baxtej44]

pictures of the metal piece please? it may be a structural support.

 

[Daven]

I managed to get out the metal peice using a crowbar and a hammer lol. Wasnt too hard to fnd where it was being held by and by what once i took off all the back wall and floor's carpet, plastic, etc. So that issue is over and done with lol. (about damn time too )

So now i am at the issue where im needing to install the amp. I read up on it and understand how it all works. But i need to find a way in thru the firewall for the power wire from battery. I looked in my engine compartment and where i could see from inside the vehicle with the dash on still and could not see any way i could fit a wre in with the origonal wiring. Its all sealed up. I am guessing that now i have to drill a hole thru? Anyone done a simular instalation and found a way without drilling? In case i did not mention before, my truck is a '89 Ranger STX.

Also, for the ground... I have taken out the metal parts that had held the stock speaker boxes and ended up with a bunch of exposed metal as the carpet wasnt in everywhere and had to go around the braces. But that is not any real problem to me as the box will be covering it and no1 looks back there anyways lol. What i am wondering, is that if this is an ok place to attach the ground? I have been told that any metal part would be fine, but putting it in the cab on the floor like that seems kinda sketchy to me as i dont know for sure all of what it is doing.

Thanks

 

[Daven]

I could not find a place to run the power wire thru the firewall so i will need to drill a hole. I bought a cheap drill and the 2 bits i will need (very small starter one, and larger finishing one) lol. So anyone know of the best place to to this? The battery is on the passenger side, so i should be going that way thru to the amp from what i've been told. But the heater is on that side so will that be a big problem with me drilling a hole? Where is the best place to drill a hole?

 

[baxtej44]

okay, with the amp... these are the connections you need

power - run this from your battery's positive terminal to the power terminal on the amp. you will need an appropriate inline fuse as close to the battery as possible (less than a foot away is best)

ground - this will need to come from the negative/ground terminal on your amp to a secure bare metal location. a seat bolt is a great place for this. take out your seat (a few bolts) and cut a little piece of the carpet out where the bolt goes through. it should be about 2 inches on all sides of the bolt hole. sand it down aggressively, you want this to be a very secure ground meaning no paint. and then just reinstall the seat with the ground under the bolt, and tighten

RCA's - these go from the back of your head unit to the amp.

remote turn on - back of your head unit to the amp

speaker leads - from your amp to the terminal cup on your box




**notes**
run your power down one side of your truck (for example, your passenger side since that is where th ebattery is, but either side works)

RCA's need to go down the other side, opposite of your power cable, otherwise you can get some interference

about drilling through your firewall.... what i did was found the rubber gromet that the main wiring harness goes through and i just cut a little chunk off without exposing the rim of the metal where the hole was drilled and slid my wire through there. you can drill a new hole, but you probably shouldn't need to, unless you prefer that.

if you drill a new hole you need to make sure it's big enough to fit the wire and a gromet so that the metal doesn't eat away at the insulation on the wire.


what gauge of wire are you using? it's important that you have an appropriate gauge for your power load. i'd say for a 400w rms amp, you will be safe with 8g wiring and 8 or less (meaning lower number but bigger wire) ground.

to save time if you ever see yourself upgrading your system, you can just go with the 4g, 2g, or even 0g if you see yourself getting that crazy of a system.

i believe there are safety charts that show you what gauge you need for specific wattages, but look around on here and ask for opinions and you should be good.