Help me choose a tire.

[kkjb4x4.0]

I think I'll be checking out some Goodyear Wrangler "Authority" once I have my front end sorted out and aligned. They run about $150 a tire here in Ontario for 31's and look like a fairly aggressive tread patern>

 

[Ranger44]

I think I'll be checking out some Goodyear Wrangler "Authority" once I have my front end sorted out and aligned. They run about $150 a tire here in Ontario for 31's and look like a fairly aggressive tread patern>

From what I understand those really aren't made by goodyear, and just carry the name under a licensing deal between them and wal-mart. They are chinese made POS's. There have been some cases of them chunking....yes that means chunks coming off of them.

 

[CHKNFKR]

Firestone Destination A/T.

Dustin

 

[chazzone]

Michelin LTX AT2 are excellent for the street or offroad. I have about 30K on mine, and they get great mileage with no noise, and they have easily handled the offroad duties.



Obviously, I don't do deep mud, but dirt, rocks, snow, rain are excellent.

 

[Chance]

bfg a/t's are great street tires.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

i'd go with the Toyo Open Country AT's. excellent traction on slick roads, excellent wear, really firmed up the handling, which i prefer. should cost about the same as the BFG's.
i have the Treadwrights on now and really like them lots. as they are E rated, you may not like the stiffer ride as yours i s always on the street. they do have them in both D and C ratings i believe. they are superior in ice and snow if you get the ones that have the walnut shell and glass molded into the tread. and they will cost half the price of the BFG's. just my $.02.

Yeah the Toyo A/T is the equivelent of an Expensive Overweight Hooker. They are pricy and they are the heaviest of the tires in their sizes... Plus they get really good traction for the whole tread life which is about half of what any other A/T is because the rubber compound is so soft it wears out.

I would recommend the Goodyear Duratracs like Mike said cause they have plenty of siping and the option of studding them if you want.

 

[snomaker321]

I do love the looks of the Duratracs, but after reading some reviews they dont sound so good. Sounds like they handle poorly and have alot of sidewall flex, plus they dont last very long. The BFGs cost like $15 more per tire and should last 2x as long

 

[MountainMike]

I do love the looks of the Duratracs, but after reading some reviews they dont sound so good. Sounds like they handle poorly and have alot of sidewall flex, plus they dont last very long. The BFGs cost like $15 more per tire and should last 2x as long

My first hand experience from those tires would disagree, plus one of the guys at work has had them on his Ranger for almost a year now and they still lok brand new. On pavement they are nice and quiet and don't feel squirrelly at all, and they clean out extremely nicely.

 

[snomaker321]

Anyone else have an opinion on the duratracs? THey do look badass but i need to hear more good things before ill consider them.

 

[superds]

...I think i'll get really good tread where with the E tires on a light truck, right? Like ive read about bfg a/t's going close to 100,000 mi.
...

I had a set of BFG ATs back in the late 90s (97-2000 roughly) and probably put about 40,000 miles on them before having to replace them. But of course, that was many years ago and they've probably redesigned the tire extensively since then.

The load rating should not be an indicator of tire wear. A tire with a higher load rating will not necessarily last longer. The higher load rating means the actual construction of the tire is more heavy duty. More indicative of wear would be tread compound and tread depth. A harder compound will last longer but have less traction and deeper tread should last a little longer but normally deep tread is intended for offroad traction, not really for long tire life.

My sister had a set of Firestone ATX (remember the tires on the Explorers that kept "exploding"?) on her Ranger and she went about 120,000 miles before replacing them. Unrelated, but funny: when the tires were worn out and we told her she needed to replace them she was really bummed out and worried about how expensive it was going to be. She said, "Do I have to replace the thing in the center too?" I replied, "The silver part? You mean the wheel?" She replied yes. Of course I told her she didn't have to replace the wheel with the tires and had a good chuckle.

 

[Ranger Kip]

EHEM! Roughnecks >.> (70k+ miles wear + 50k mile warranty)

 

[Original_Ranger84]

I don't know how fast anything really wears out besides my Mickey Thompsons going on 40,000 miles so far!

But the more grip and traction it has (especially on ice and slick surfaces) the more siping it has and the more likely it will wear out faster. if its supposed to last a few hundred thousand miles the rubber compound it sprobably REALLY stiff and not very good traction.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A note:
tire studs have to be installed before the tire hits pavement. You cannot stud used tires.
Richard

 

[Original_Ranger84]

A note:
tire studs have to be installed before the tire hits pavement. You cannot stud used tires.
Richard

Actually you can but the tire places don't like to do it because you have to pull out all the rocks. And you can always drill and stud the tires assumiong they have enough tread on them. But if your going to pay for that you may as well just buy a set of studded winter tires.

 

[strvger]

"Yeah the Toyo A/T is the equivelent of an Expensive Overweight Hooker. They are pricy and they are the heaviest of the tires in their sizes... Plus they get really good traction for the whole tread life which is about half of what any other A/T is because the rubber compound is so soft it wears out."

too bad you had such bad luck with yours. my set did exceedingly well with both traction and wear. that's why i have no problem recommending them.