Knocking in driveline?

[Chic N Stew]

well, i have one side of the carrier done, gonna weld the other side when i get home from school today, i should have pix up by tomorrow.

Also 1 question, after the welding is done, will one tire kind of SKIP on turns(i would assume the tire your turning into?

 

[MAKG]

Yes, expect one tire to rub/skip/slip on turns with a welded differential. Let's hope you have cheap tires if you're using this on pavement.

 

[Chic N Stew]

I have some really good tires on it, but they need to be replaced, ill leave these worn tires on it until i can get a new carrier or new diff(these tires show what i was doing when the spiders crapped out)

 

[metalmacguyver]

another term is "tire scrub"

 

[Evan]

I have some really good tires on it, but they need to be replaced, ill leave these worn tires on it until i can get a new carrier or new diff(these tires show what i was doing when the spiders crapped out)

With a locked rear: if you keep both rear tires inflated correctly and evenly and take it easy on the throttle around turns your tires will not wear excessively. Also, rotate your tires more frequently than normal.

My Explorer has been a pavement DD for well over a year with a locked rear, and the tire wear has been normal.

 

[Chic N Stew]

i would probably pull that broken tooth chunk out and put it all back together and test drive it. for some reason i cant see that one broken tooth being much of a problem. on corners it may make some noise but other than that i dont see why not.... i still cant figure out how you broke one tooth on one spider gear without hosing the r&p

ya but wouldn't it have just broken the next tooth from the next one hitting it?

 

[kunar]

ya but wouldn't it have just broken the next tooth from the next one hitting it?

its kinda hard to say for sure but it doesnt seem like there should be a lot of force on the spiders, even in turns. add to that the fact that there is still atleast some of the original tooth left, and that it would seem like teeth on either side would be partially engaged at the same time the tooth in question should be engaged....my main thought was why not try it if you were planning on welding it anyways. just a 'what could it hurt?' mentality. add to that the fact that now that you have welded, you need more than just spiders. you will need to replace the carrier which means setting up your gear set.unless you havent welded the spiders to the carrier, in which case the welds may break the first time you go around a turn in any high traction situation....

please dont get me wrong, do as you wish. i am certainly no expert in the subject, i would have just chosen a different repair process. by all means, let us know how it works out for you, i hope things go well

 

[Chic N Stew]

i welded it just like this

 

[Hahnsb2]

you CAN spool it or weld it but a good ratcheting locker will also be unpredictable because they can lock because of excessive acceleration in a turn just like a spool or weld will. the diffrence is you can learn to drive with a mini spool or a welded diff and it can become predictable after you have driven a few miles in all the diffrent weather conditions in your area. if you are a good and skilled driver you will be fine with it welded or spooled. limited slips and lockers are expensive!

Have you ever driven with a lunchbox locker, they are not unpredictable at all. I'll take a locker over a spool or welded diff any day.

 

[Evan]

Looks like a pretty good job on the diff weld.

 

[kunar]

Looks like a pretty good job on the diff weld.

that pic is from a TRS magazine article...

 

[tomcat]

thats the way to weld it...good job i have welded lots of thim...now get out there and do sum 2 tire fire burn outs

 

[Chic N Stew]

thats the way to weld it...good job i have welded lots of thim...now get out there and do sum 2 tire fire burn outs

na, thats what i got my c10 and s10 for, the ranger wont even compare to them, maybe once i get my 351 in it though