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Question about an Explorer Rear


Bob Hatcher

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2024
Messages
67
City
Mountain Top Pa
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
I found an Explorer 3.73 posi 8.8 disc brake rear, that also has the speed sensor for my speedometer, to swap into my Ranger since I put a 302 into it - the Explorer rear mounts on top of the leaf springs but the smaller rear in my 2000 Ranger mounts under the leaf springs - I thought that the rears were plug & play but do I need to swap out the spring pads or am I just looking at the wrong year Explorer?
 

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All of the Explorers will have the springs under the axle, so its not a 'year' thing.

You have 3 options:
1. Mount the Explorer axle under the spring (like it was in the Explorer) and lower the front to match (you are in the mini trucking section; lowering might be considered acceptable)​
2. Grind the spring mounts off the axle and remount (weld) them on the top (matching how it is on the Ranger)​
3. Get a pair of F-150 lowering brackets from DMJ and install them (mimics grinding the spring mounts off the axle and remount them on the top (Needs to be F-150 as the Explorer tube is larger than Rangers)​
 
Thanks for the reply - I didn't notice that I was in the wrong section but can't see where else I could post it since it is a 2000 2 wheel drive - your answers appears pretty much covering my problem though
 
No worries, we just teleport over to the Axles section…

@don4331 is right though.

Mounting it as spring under axle like the Explorer requires alterations and it will impact the bump stops without changes, I tried heavier leaf packs and still hit the bump stops under normal weight. I went with longer shackles because the pinion angle was already all wrong. Cut the pads free and re-welded them after I got the axle clocked right. I also cut the traction bar mounts off the tube and relocated them over the leaf spring so I could re-use them. Mind you this is all on my lowered Ranger, my green one. The rear is currently about 4” lower than stock with these changes.

If you are looking for stock height, you have to cut the pads off and flip them or go with option #3 above.

Personally, after having done it a couple times, I’d have no problem cutting and welding the pads again. If you really wanted to you could buy new pads to weld on.
 
Thanks, I decided to mount the Explorer rear under the leaf springs like my Ranger and I even found new mounting pads for 44 bucks today - I just need to be careful to duplicate the pinion angle on the ranger rear when welding in the new pads on the Explorer rear - going to pick up the Explorer rear tomorrow morning
 
Something else to take note of that I don't see mentioned is the lower shock mounts. Explorer doesn't have them because they mounted the lower to the spring plate. You'll need to add those to the Explorer axle as well.

Like lil_Blue_Ford said about the spring perches (pads), you can carefully cut off the shock mounts and weld them to the new axle. It isn't as critical as pinion angle, just match them up to stock location as best you can.
 
Meh, I’m not sure how critical pinion angle really is. I usually just TLAR (That Looks About Right) at full weight on suspension. I haven’t noticed any driveline vibrations doing it like that yet… but I’m also not everyone and I’m still working half caveman style.
 
Something else to take note of that I don't see mentioned is the lower shock mounts. Explorer doesn't have them because they mounted the lower to the spring plate. You'll need to add those to the Explorer axle as well.

Like lil_Blue_Ford said about the spring perches (pads), you can carefully cut off the shock mounts and weld them to the new axle. It isn't as critical as pinion angle, just match them up to stock location as best you can.
And the sway bar mounts too; forgot about those too...been too long since I did this myself...
 
The need for shock mounts is part of the reason I went with the RuffStuff simple swap kit. That and the fact that I wanted the 10" spring perches to help with stability.
 
I bought that 8.8 Explorer rear today, from a truck parts recycling place, for 300.00 - it has disc brakes and it is a limited slip with 373 gears - I figure I will, at least, need rebuilt calipers as they have a death grip on the rotors and then we'll see if the rotors will clean up once I get it apart - here is a picture of the rear and tag - looks like it was made on January 12, 2000
 

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Since nobody else has linked em and you came here with questions I will point out the tech library .... if you already saw it my apologies. Couple articles directly exactly on how to do explorer axle swap

with spring pad re-placeming:

with 4" drop:
 
I bought that 8.8 Explorer rear today, from a truck parts recycling place, for 300.00 - it has disc brakes and it is a limited slip with 373 gears - I figure I will, at least, need rebuilt calipers as they have a death grip on the rotors and then we'll see if the rotors will clean up once I get it apart - here is a picture of the rear and tag - looks like it was made on January 12, 2000

You'll want to look at the parking brake shoes as well. That style of brake system uses the center hat like a drum brake for parking brake purposes. They are also not self adjusting. So you will want to check them from time to time for proper operation, assuming you use the parking brake. I have a manual transmission, so I have to and need to adjust them twice a year so the truck won't try to roll down the hill.

Working on those brake shoes is a S.O.B. pull the axle shafts if you can so you have free access to everything and the hubs are out of the way. Adjustment isn't so bad once you get the rotation direction right. Put the truck up on jack stands. Tighten the brakes until you can't spin the tire. Then back them of a few clicks. The only thing that keeps the adjuster from spinning freely is the spring contacting the star wheel. You want there to be a rubbing sound from the shoes but the tire spins easily enough to not heat up the rotor from friction.
 
Since nobody else has linked em and you came here with questions I will point out the tech library .... if you already saw it my apologies. Couple articles directly exactly on how to do explorer axle swap

with spring pad re-placeming:

with 4" drop:
Thank you so much for the links - I am still fairly new here and I wasn't aware of the articles
 
You'll want to look at the parking brake shoes as well. That style of brake system uses the center hat like a drum brake for parking brake purposes. They are also not self adjusting. So you will want to check them from time to time for proper operation, assuming you use the parking brake. I have a manual transmission, so I have to and need to adjust them twice a year so the truck won't try to roll down the hill.

Working on those brake shoes is a S.O.B. pull the axle shafts if you can so you have free access to everything and the hubs are out of the way. Adjustment isn't so bad once you get the rotation direction right. Put the truck up on jack stands. Tighten the brakes until you can't spin the tire. Then back them of a few clicks. The only thing that keeps the adjuster from spinning freely is the spring contacting the star wheel. You want there to be a rubbing sound from the shoes but the tire spins easily enough to not heat up the rotor from friction.
Thanks, I will have to go over all of the brakes once I can get help in removing the rear end from my vehicle - I know the calipers are frozen to the rotors so that will be my starting point for now
 
...once I can get help in removing the rear end from my vehicle

Just a thought, but you might want to do go over the brakes on the Explorer axle BEFORE you remove the rear end from your vehicle. If you get elbow deep into it and find a problem you'll be up the creek without a paddle and no truck to drive because the rear end is out.


I know what you meant. Remove "the Explorer rear end from" your vehicle. The invitation was open so I had to go there.
 

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