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Motorhome towing a 1996 Ranger XLT , auto trans


Curt..

New Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Mar 20, 2025
Messages
3
City
Mayer az
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
My first post here and if I knew how to search the site better I may be able to find the answer but I'm 73 years old and not very technological.

I'm contemplating purchase of a 1996 stepside Ranger XLT with automatic transmission for towing behind my Class C motorhome. I would like somebody with first-hand knowledge to answer whether or not this is possible without modification to the truck or addition of a drive shaft disconnect etc.

I've had recent knee surgery and need to get away from a clutch situation on top of low budget funding.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you
 
If its 2wd youll need to disconnect driveshaft.

If its 4wd with the electric transfer case....youll need to disconnect driveshaft.

If its 4wd with a manual transfer case you should be able to pull it with the transfer case in neutral.


Are you dolly towing or flat towing?
 
I'd like to flat tow, it is 2 wd.
 
I'd like to flat tow, it is 2 wd.
Your only option is disconnecting the driveshaft.
You don't have to remove the whole thing, but unbolt it from the axle end and hold it up and out off the way with a ratchet strap. It's not terribly difficult to do, but a 2wd will be lower so you might want to keep a floor jack of some type in it.

In the past year and a half I've had both of my knees replaced.

Welcome to TRS.
 
Ok, thanks, will a selection of metric open end/box end wrenches, and some sockets do the job? Is it a typical, 4 bolt flange with a universal incorporated?
 
I hope you are skinny - getting under a 2wd needs one to be of the thinner persuasion.

You want a 12mm 12 pt socket, a short extension and a long bar. The bolts are lock tited in place, so they take a bit of muscle to break loose. And you want to lock tite them back when you replace them. And remember to mark the position where the yoke connected to the differential, so you reinstall it in the same place.

Personally, I'd get a 4wd transmission, manual transfer case and 4wd rear driveshaft and install them. Then you could pop it in neutral on the transfer case and go. You don't need the front drive shaft/axle.

I have 2 -12pt sockets in the toolbox, a 12 & a 13...figures I'd pick the wrong one...
 
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I hope you are skinny - getting under a 2wd needs one to be of the thinner persuasion.

You want a 13mm 12 pt socket, a short extension and a long bar. The bolts are lock tited in place, so they take a bit of muscle to break loose. And you want to lock tite them back when you replace them. And remember to mark the position where the yoke connected to the differential, so you reinstall it in the same place.

Personally, I'd get a 4wd transmission, manual transfer case and 4wd rear driveshaft and install them. Then you could pop it in neutral on the transfer case and go. You don't need the front drive shaft/axle.
You mean 12MM - 12 point.
 

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