EXPERTS PLEASE HELP .. 1990 B2 2.9 This is a desperation case.

[alwaysFlOoReD]

So this little bugger here behind the timing cover has to line up with the same " keyway" or whatever on the HB ?
Be cause I never removed the timing gears

I was kind of wondering what Kunar was talking about, but I've never had a 2.9 apart either.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

So this little bugger here behind the timing cover has to line up with the same " keyway" or whatever on the HB ?
Be cause I never removed the timing gears

No if the crank pulley wasnt on right it would basically give you a false timing reading. If you had the actual gear on wrong you'd bend valves lol.

When you checked timing did you remove the SPOUT connector?

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

No if the crank pulley wasnt on right it would basically give you a false timing reading. If you had the actual gear on wrong you'd bend valves lol.

When you checked timing did you remove the SPOUT connector?

I was unclear on the spout connector function.
Goal today.

Pull front back off
Pull crank pulley take pictures
Let you look at my pulley..lol

I shouldn't need to pull the timing cover again should I?
The chain and guides/ gears were inspected not touched,?

Explain spout connector process briefly if you don't mind please.

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

You said " crank timing gear" is that what I posted a picture of ? Or there something else on the back of the crank pulley ( harmonic balancer)

 

[Shran]

How are you verifying spark? Do you have spark at all 6 cylinders?

If so and it won't start on ether then you can narrow it down to compression or timing. Since it was running previously I think we can rule out compression, you don't just lose that unless there was some major mechanical thing that broke.

My bet is that you stabbed the distributor when cylinder #1 was on its exhaust stroke. Your plugs will should be firing on the compression stroke.

 

[Uncle Gump]

SPOUT - SPark OUTput

It's a shorting bar that when removed allows the engine to run at base timing. When installed... it allows the ECM to control spark timing.

Base timing is always set with SPOUT bar removed.

I'm kind of in agreement with you may have the distributor 180 out. Bring number 1 cylinder back up to TDC of the compression stroke and verify rotor position again.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Pull #1 sparkplug and turn engine over until there is a whoosh of air. You can use your thumb or finger to feel for it too. Then look at the timing marks on the crank pulley and move it to 10° btdc. Look at your rotor now.

 

[kunar]

So this little bugger here behind the timing cover has to line up with the same " keyway" or whatever on the HB ?
Be cause I never removed the timing gears

This is what your timing sprocket looks like, it's got that little nub made as part of the sprocket. When the pulley goes back on, that little nub has to go into a keyway in the pulley. Then, the pulley needs to be tight enough to pinch the gear to keep it from moving. If the pulley isn't torqued, that little nub will eventually shear off. (ask me how i know) That sprocket being properly assembled to the crank pulley determines the cam timing in relation to the crank.

EDIT: it just hit me, i think that little nub fits into a keyway in the crank, not the pulley. The sprocket faces the opposite direction from what i was thinking. Either way, if it were assembled with things out of place, it would let your cam timing be off, which would cause the low compression. I could be barking up the wrong tree though

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

Here is what I am looking at

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

So here we are about to remove pulley.

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

How are you verifying spark? Do you have spark at all 6 cylinders?

If so and it won't start on ether then you can narrow it down to compression or timing. Since it was running previously I think we can rule out compression, you don't just lose that unless there was some major mechanical thing that broke.

My bet is that you stabbed the distributor when cylinder #1 was on its exhaust stroke. Your plugs will should be firing on the compression stroke.

I did not check all cylinders #1 #5 #6

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

I wanted to say thank you to everyone helping me. The sale of this is going to my wife's surgery after her stroke for some new thing they do to reconnect he nerves that were taken out during the stroke. . That's why I'm so hard and fast to fix this thing. I am not a pro but I know enough to get by. Again I just wanted to say thank you. We are set for 45mph wind gusts tomorrow and I'm working out doors so it will be about 38 degrees .

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

And no issues kicking some.cheese.to anyone who can one on one FaceTime me.

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

This is what your timing sprocket looks like, it's got that little nub made as part of the sprocket. When the pulley goes back on, that little nub has to go into a keyway in the pulley. Then, the pulley needs to be tight enough to pinch the gear to keep it from moving. If the pulley isn't torqued, that little nub will eventually shear off. (ask me how i know) That sprocket being properly assembled to the crank pulley determines the cam timing in relation to the crank.

EDIT: it just hit me, i think that little nub fits into a keyway in the crank, not the pulley. The sprocket faces the opposite direction from what i was thinking. Either way, if it were assembled with things out of place, it would let your cam timing be off, which would cause the low compression. I could be barking up the wrong tree though
View attachment 124854

At this point I shouldn't have to pull the timing cover again correct?

 

[kunar]

At this point I shouldn't have to pull the timing cover again correct?

i guess that's going to depend on what you can see/verify with the pulley off. i'm not sure if youll be able to see any of the timing marks or anything like that