Running stock front driveshaft with Superlift: advice?

[Jandro2004FX4]

Hi folks, I had the Superlift K358 kit installed on my 2004 Ford Ranger a couple years ago, been really happy with it, but I did not replace the front driveshaft. I read recently that this lift reduces the lifetime of the stock front driveshaft “considerably”, and to expect 25-30k miles. I often take this truck to remote and hard-to-get to places in the desert over rough terrain, so my question is: how worried should I be? I’d appreciate some real world experience as I’m pretty much a noob at this kind of thing, thanks

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Take an extra shaft with you. Or bring u-joints and replace them in the field. Make sure you practice replacing joints with an old shaft first.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Take an extra shaft with you. Or bring u-joints and replace them in the field. Make sure you practice replacing joints with an old shaft first.

I'm not sure the U joint is going to be the issue, the transfer case end is a CV joint so it's probably about at it's limits but that is also available as a kit I believe...

Getting a spare shaft to have on hand isn't a horrible idea and probably a spare U joint as well as the tools to change it of course... if memory serves it's just a torx bit for the axle end and a 8mm or 5/16" 12pt wrench or socket for the T case end...

A spare shaft shouldn't be horrible to find, I "think" it's the same on '96-01 Explorers and '98-11 Rangers

 

[Jandro2004FX4]

Yeah looking at the new geometry under there, it really looks like it’s pretty maximal. I wish I’d known about this way back when I had the lift installed (that is to say I wish I’d read the TRS forums back then!). A quick search and I found the optional driveshaft that goes with this lift is ~$800…does anyone know of a good heavy duty option that’s less $$$? Thanks for the suggestions

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

What is so hard on the driveshaft?

I thought it was usually the CV shafts that took the beating with a lifted IFS.

 

[SenorNoob]

That kit has differential lowering brackets, so it changes the angle of the front driveshaft.

I wonder if it'd be cheaper to swap the front output on the transfer case and run an older style driveshaft?

 

[Jandro2004FX4]

What is so hard on the driveshaft?

I thought it was usually the CV shafts that took the beating with a lifted IFS.

Maybe I misunderstood but I thought the cv is on the end of the driveshaft

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Maybe I misunderstood but I thought the cv is on the end of the driveshaft

I am referring to the shafts that go from the diff to the wheel, they have a CV on each end.

 

[Jandro2004FX4]

That kit has differential lowering brackets, so it changes the angle of the front driveshaft.

I wonder if it'd be cheaper to swap the front output on the transfer case and run an older style driveshaft?

I am referring to the shafts that go from the diff to the wheel, they have a CV on each end.

No

That kit has differential lowering brackets, so it changes the angle of the front driveshaft.

I wonder if it'd be cheaper to swap the front output on the transfer case and run an older style driveshaft?

Sounds intriguing but I confess I don’t know what all that would entail…

 

[Jandro2004FX4]

I am referring to the shafts that go from the diff to the wheel, they have a CV on each end.

Sorry I’m messing up my replies. No I meant the cv coming from the transfer case on the driveshaft that goes to the front diff

 

[sgtsandman]

What is so hard on the driveshaft?

I thought it was usually the CV shafts that took the beating with a lifted IFS.

I believe it's the CV on the driveshaft that is the area of concern. If I remember correctly, the replacement shaft has a conversion kit with it to eliminate the CV joint.

The CV half shafts seem to hold up ok as long as they don't get reefed on to hard with tires bigger than 32"

 

[scotts90ranger]

I am referring to the shafts that go from the diff to the wheel, they have a CV on each end.

They literally used a normal CV joint like on a FWD or other normal IFS on the transfer case end of the front driveline and it was designed with very limited travel since in stock form it's literally fixed... Ever heard of the stock rear drivelines on BII's going out? Same thing, I've seen several BII's on the side of the road with rear drivelines sitting underneath, not so much anymore, pretty sure they've all been replaced by now not to mention not too many BII's out there anymore anyway...

I know I've heard of swapping a normal U join front output onto the 1354's and having a shaft made, I'm sure there's likely even a factory one from something or other that might fit...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

If you haven't already, maybe look into having your driveshaft modified/extended to fit? I'm sure someone specializes in this, or at least can do it.

A bit wild idea, but if there's wiggle room in the motor mounts/trans/rear driveshaft any chance you can get the transfer case to lower a bit? maybe some washers as spacers between mounts?

Spare u joints might not be a bad idea until the better fix. I would think they would be the weak point before any input/output shaft or yoke damage. Maybe some spare seals too tho...they might leak faster.

It sucks they make stuff like this. Its a legit lift kit, yet mangles geometry and doesn't even offer a fix.
They should disclose such information to potential buyers.

I wouldnt be able to get away with building a customer a gate, then telling them after they'd need a whole new driveway and post for it to fit straight or level at all.

 

[Jandro2004FX4]

If you haven't already, maybe look into having your driveshaft modified/extended to fit? I'm sure someone specializes in this, or at least can do it.

A bit wild idea, but if there's wiggle room in the motor mounts/trans/rear driveshaft any chance you can get the transfer case to lower a bit? maybe some washers as spacers between mounts?

Spare u joints might not be a bad idea until the better fix. I would think they would be the weak point before any input/output shaft or yoke damage. Maybe some spare seals too tho...they might leak faster.

It sucks they make stuff like this. Its a legit lift kit, yet mangles geometry and doesn't even offer a fix.
They should disclose such information to potential buyers.

I wouldnt be able to get away with building a customer a gate, then telling them after they'd need a whole new driveway and post for it to fit straight or level at all.

I fully agree. I wish I was told about this before…lessons learned! Anyway, interesting ideas you have there, I have a friend that works at a Ford dealership doing this sort of thing, now I know at least what questions to ask him

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think the pinion angle is held by the rear mount for the front diff, I wonder what it would take to shim it up a little bit to help the CV angle.

I don't remember hearing about a whole bunch of failures, I'm not exactly sure how much I would be freaked out about this... but then again I ignored a lot about anything '98 or newer for a lot of years...