Key on for 8 minutes before starting.

[Curious Hound]

Time to replace those capacitors. Either theybare bad or the solder joints are loose and corroded.

 

[SenorNoob]

That's definitely a leak. The electrolyte has eaten into the board. It should still be salvageable.

 

[venuspie1]

I will give it a shot. I think I can source them locally but I am not confident in my ability to change them out.

 

[SenorNoob]

Watch some youtube videos. Capacitors are among the easiest things to replace because they only have 2 pins. Make sure you orient the replacements correctly. It makes it much easier to clip the pins on the old capacitor. Then you can remove one leg at a time. A second set of hands can also be helpful. Have them pull the part while you heat from the other side. If you made it this far, you can handle some soldering. Just make sure you use electrical solder not plumbing.

Worst case scenario, replacements are available. Rockauto has a selection of Cardone parts for about $130+Core.

 

[venuspie1]

Thanks for the advice! Will see how it goes next week when I can get the new ones.

 

[RobbieD]

Write down or image the capacitor values, note their polarity, and then "deconstruct" the caps to leave the longest remaining pin legs.

Clip hemostats on a pin leg at a time, and turn the Printed Circuit Board upside down. From the top, heat the solder to its melt point with an iron; applying a little flux will help.

As soon as the pin leg drops out, lightly tap the PCB on your work surface. The hemos will pull the pin out, and the tap will usually clear the PCB pass-thru of solder. If not, reheat the pass-thru with fresh stranded copper wire on it and the wire will draw the melted solder out.

The trick is to heat the PCB quickly to the solder melt point, and no more. Not being quick and you'll burn the PCB.

Make sure that your new caps are the same value, and make sure that the polarity matches the originals.

It might seem like rocket surgery, but it's not hard at all.

 

[Brain75]

Some of this has been said, but just for clarity:

when a capacitor lets go it "lets the magic smoke out" - that's electrolyte. if you have zero experience doing any soldering or electrical repair I would suggest either A) go to junkyard and get another ECU (check that it is in better shape of course) B)take it to a ma/pa electronics repair shop. They can "re-cap" it (replace capacitors) for a pretty minimal cost. If you have enough knowledge to be dangerous, then you can recap it yourself, unsolder a cap (one at a time) and replace it with the same micro-ferrad rating and either like or greater voltage rating (you can only go up in voltage - meaning they are rated to take more volts than what the circuit requires), don't go down in volts or change the uF rating. The large silver stripe is the polarity, replace them the same polarity orientation they came out. (Hint take a picture of each one before you pull it for reference in case you get screwed up, distracted, etc)...

Typically when a cap gives up it lets out a light brown powdery mess, bulges, and might even split open the top (that little X scribed in the top is a blast cap - pressure release device) being blue I would consider that to be more likely corrosion, but either way I would remove and test (which is something I would have to google up to remember how to do).
you can use rubbing alcohol (the greater the purity the better) and a Q tip to clean off electrolyte and corrosion rather than rub the board with something and risk damaging the PCB
some places to get capacitors digikey, mouser electronics, amazon, aliexpress (note about ali - some of the vendors are selling the same stuff you have already, some are really crappy low quality components, check ratings and reviews and look for sellers with real names - like 'guandong electronics corp' instead of fly by night like 'shop03586184301398')

 

[4x4junkie]

If you do order from Digikey or Mouser, try to find Nichicon or Rubycon branded caps that have a temperature rating of 105°C. Both of these have always been at or near the top when it comes to quality/longevity.

Something to desolder with also helps removing the old ones and cleaning up the holes (especially if it's a double-sided PCB).
I use a vacuum desoldering tool:

SOLDAPULLT III

Check out the deal on SOLDAPULLT III at EDSYN Inc.

www.edsyn.com

For a small job like this, desoldering braid (wick) would probably be fine.
Lesnow solder wick braid 10ft Length Desoldering Wick Braid Remover Tool Solder Sucker 1 piece No-Clean soldering Wick Wire Roll and Disassemble Electrical Components - Amazon.com

 

[bobbywalter]

yup.

 

[venuspie1]

UPDATE! It worked!! Picked up 3 caps from a local store and had a friend help replace them, and now the truck starts up right away! I needed a win on this one. Thanks to everyone for the help. I don't understand how this was the problem, but I am not complaining.

 

[Curious Hound]

UPDATE! It worked!! Picked up 3 caps from a local store and had a friend help replace them, and now the truck starts up right away! I needed a win on this one. Thanks to everyone for the help. I don't understand how this was the problem, but I am not complaining.

Happy for your success. The explanation isn't simple. Just believe in the magic of electricity.

 

[Brain75]