rear drums part deux

[97ranger22bronco]

Update: I tested the e-brake and the wire does move back and forth as it's engaged, so that's good.

Ran to the store to get a torch, more PB Blaster, and a sledge. Will provide updates as they happen

 

[97ranger22bronco]

@RobbieD two stupidly clarifying questions:
- I should be hammering the front face of the drum around the studs, correct?
- I am starting to get a little movement in the self adjuster in the back, as I'm looking at it from the backing plate, which way should I be turning it to loosen the shoes? I don't want to tighten them further. this part is solved: have to move it upward

 

[Uncle Gump]

I've had the best luck hammering the outside edge... like where your tape measure is hooked.

Don't be shy about it... give it the full rage.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

update: I can now move the adjuster from the back, however I think it's either at its limit or stuck because I can roll it down but not up anymore.

There's now some play in the drum, I can pull at it a bit mostly from the bottom but not the top. No luck on getting it to rotate yet.

I'm at the point where I'm putting a pry bar behind it, in the gap between the drum and axle and then hammering at it.

 

[pjtoledo]

don't pry on the backing plate, can't get new ones.
if it moves at all cut those pins now.

try twisting them, may get lucky and release 'em.

got a mini drill?

 

[97ranger22bronco]

These pins, right? I do not have a mini drill, any other way to get them off? @Uncle Gump you said pull them with a screwdriver and then grab with side cutters? I'm thinking getting a cutting wheel in there once the cutters are holding it?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

These pins, right? I do not have a mini drill, any other way to get them off? @Uncle Gump you said pull them with a screwdriver and then grab with side cutters? I'm thinking getting a cutting wheel in there once the cutters are holding it?

A grinder.
Cold chisel.
Dremel.
Side cutters.

 

[RobbieD]

Update: I tested the e-brake and the wire does move back and forth as it's engaged, so that's good.

Yes, that's very good.

Ran to the store to get a torch, more PB Blaster, and a sledge.

That's even better!

I am starting to get a little movement in the self adjuster in the back, as I'm looking at it from the backing plate, which way should I be turning it to loosen the shoes? I don't want to tighten them further. this part is solved: have to move it upward

Tighten, you'll feel it "bottom". Once it's good and loose, it'll feel "rattle-ley" through your spoon or flat blade screwdriver. I tried memorizing "up or down" for "loose and tight" for years, but gave up. It's simply a design feature by Ford Engineering to drive us to drink.

- I should be hammering the front face of the drum around the studs, correct?

I've had the best luck hammering the outside edge... like where your tape measure is hooked.

Exactly. Beat on the drum where it's the strongest. You're wanting to "shock" the parts, to break the rust bond.

Don't be shy about it... give it the full rage.

Sage advice, from one who Knows The Way Of The Jedi..

don't pry on the backing plate, can't get new ones.
if it moves at all cut those pins now.

Yes, ABSOLUTELY. DON'T BOOGER YOUR BACKING PLATES. Those, and your axle flanges, are the only parts that matter at this point.

These pins, right?

Yes. Get something under the flat head, Pull them outward, and cut that sucker off. A flat blade screwdriver, a panel popper tool, or anything (hell, even a table fork) that that will let you get it pulled back enough to get that head off of the backing plate, and get a good pair of side cutters under it. A man-sized pair of side cutters will do the trick. Just don't booger your backing plates.



You're close.

If you can, let it sit overnight and let the penetrating oil work its magic.

A lot of times, I'll hit a brick wall, sleep on it, and then beat it's ass when fresher in the morning.

 

[SenorNoob]

A lot of times, I'll hit a brick wall, sleep on it, and then beat it's ass when fresher in the morning.

Amen, brother. That's why I like to do my projects at home when possible. I just need a concrete pad and carport.

 

[bobbywalter]

all crusty and growed together never turned draggin it....



i start with the cut off wheel.

 

[19Walt93]

You know that you haave to push the self adjuster lever out of the way in order to loosen the rear adjusters, right? You can usually slide a thin screwdriver past the adjuster wheel toward the rear of the truck and push the lever toward the drum, then you can rotate the adjuster wheel to back off the tension. Without pushing the lever out of the way you'll be able to tighten the adjustment but it won't loosen. I have never had to cut off the retaining pins to remove a drum andl living in NH, I've seen a lot of rust.

 

[bobbywalter]

You know that you haave to push the self adjuster lever out of the way in order to loosen the rear adjusters, right? You can usually slide a thin screwdriver past the adjuster wheel toward the rear of the truck and push the lever toward the drum, then you can rotate the adjuster wheel to back off the tension. Without pushing the lever out of the way you'll be able to tighten the adjustment but it won't loosen. I have never had to cut off the retaining pins to remove a drum andl living in NH, I've seen a lot of rust.

i have only have had to push the stop lever out on huge stuff.

for thes little guys my normal spoons have no problems going both ways....and my bronco has drums front and rear. the times i have pushed it back is because they were froze solid and never moving....but its worth a try.... so the 10 minutes with a grinder is the default for this situation. now....i will beat the fawk out of it 10 min per side just because....but thats all it gets.

 

[pjtoledo]

all crusty and growed together never turned draggin it....



i start with the cut off wheel.

sounds efficient, but I'd rather beat 'da hell out of it as sort of a therapy session.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

You know that you haave to push the self adjuster lever out of the way in order to loosen the rear adjusters, right? You can usually slide a thin screwdriver past the adjuster wheel toward the rear of the truck and push the lever toward the drum, then you can rotate the adjuster wheel to back off the tension. Without pushing the lever out of the way you'll be able to tighten the adjustment but it won't loosen. I have never had to cut off the retaining pins to remove a drum andl living in NH, I've seen a lot of rust.

I've seen that but I was able to move it back and forth to a point, which is why I didn't think i needed to do that. I got a dremel cut off tool for the pins, but will try to move the lever out of the side as well. It's 103 degrees here now (I hate TX weather) so it'll be later tonight when it gets all the way down to 80

 

[97ranger22bronco]

i have only have had to push the stop lever out on huge stuff.

for thes little guys my normal spoons have no problems going both ways....and my bronco has drums front and rear. the times i have pushed it back is because they were froze solid and never moving....but its worth a try.... so the 10 minutes with a grinder is the default for this situation. now....i will beat the fawk out of it 10 min per side just because....but thats all it gets.

It's good therapy to swing at it with all your strength for a bit; even if there's no progress