rear drums part deux

[97ranger22bronco]

As I'm waiting for the bearing grease packer tool to arrive to move forward on the front discs, I figured I'd start on the rear drums. The unfortunate thing is that the drums are stuck on and will not spin while the truck is in neutral which leads me to believe the brakes are seized. I sprayed PB Blaster on it and tapped with hammer to get a vibration going, but any other suggestions to remove them would be appreciated.

On a side note, am i right to believe that these are 10 inch brakes? It's an RWD but they don't look like 9s.

 

[RobbieD]

I hate asking this; is the parking brake not engaged?

If "yes", you can stick a long prybar where your tape is (lugnuts on the studs), and see if you can turn the drum. Both back wheels are off the ground, right?

Usually the damn drum is rusted to the axle flange. See if you can get it to rotate first, then deal with breaking the drum loose.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

The brake is off, I checked that yesterday to make sure that it worked The truck is on jack stands, with both wheels are in the air.

I went around to the backer plate to try and move the self adjuster with a screwdriver and got no movement.

I'll try the prybar method!

 

[97ranger22bronco]

Tried with a prybar and got no movement and almost broke the bar in the process

 

[RobbieD]

The one you show looks pretty crusty. Hopefully you're going into them to replace everything.

Keep hitting them with PB Blaster, and it'll take time to soak into the areas that are rusted together.

Once you can spin it, those silver retention clips have to come off to pull the drum. They can be driven off, unthreading them, with a punch and pliers if you're going to reuse them. I don't think that they're actually needed; I've always thought that they're just there as part of the vehicle production process to keep the drums on before the wheels were installed.

Tried with a prybar and got no movement and almost broke the bar in the process

Bummer. Some people get all of the fun, you lucky dog. You're gonna have to try and tickle the adjuster screws to back off on the shoe pressure. You can also try cracking the bleeders. Final option, go ballistic and make some scrap. Those drums likely are frozen to the axles, but regardless they should turn.


It looks like it's been a while since those rear brakes got any love. You're probably looking at putting all new parts in.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

Oh yeah, it's a complete overhaul of these; it sat for 14 years and who knows what the maintenance was before that so it'll be 100% new, from hardware to shoes, to drums.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Did it move before you set the park brake?

Chances are... you're gonna destroy some stuff getting these off.

One thing that may help once you can turn the drum... pull the hold down sprung pins from the back using a screw driver and a good pair of side cutters. Once you get the side cutters behind the head of the pin... cut the pin.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

It hasn't moved since I pulled it from the field. i got a bit of movement/shaking to it for a bit but then it went back.

 

[RobbieD]

it sat for 14 years

Has it rolled since then? Shoes will rust to the drums. 14 years and they've probably fossilized to the drums. You might even have a dinosaur infestation.

You're probably looking at a lot of PB Blaster, the biggest BFH that you possess, and absolutely no mercy.


May the The Force be with you, my son.


God I love drum brakes- so old-school that even a Boomer can deal with it.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

It has not rolled since then; it actually began to grow into the field before I rescued it and pulled it out. The inspection sticker on it reads 2010, so I'm assuming it's been a statue since that time.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

would adding heat make any difference you think?

 

[Uncle Gump]

It hasn't moved since I pulled it from the field. i got a bit of movement/shaking to it for a bit but then it went back.

You missed my point...

When you drug it out of the field... we're the rear tires rotating?

If they were... then you tested the park brake and now they won't rotate... the park brake cables are rusted and seized. You may have to actually cut those. Cut close to the backing plate... it may take the tension off the park brake lever and free the shoes from the drum.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

I don't believe they turned when we drug it out the field.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

How would I test that? Get someone to push the e-brake and see if the cable is moving?

 

[RobbieD]

so I'm assuming it's been a statue since that time.

I like that.

It wouldn't hurt to try. A torch on the drums in the shoe contact area may help.

Do @Uncle Gump 's suggestion and cut the retaining pin heads from the back. The worst rear drum problem I've had was where the inside of the drum was rust-bonded to the axle flange. Cutting the pins will let the shoes being rusted to the drums travel enough to come off, once you break that bond to the axle flange, and everything else lets go.

Heat may help there. too. Just be careful and don't turn the truck into a bonfire.

Don't let us down, now; we want pictures of the carnage.

How would I test that? Get someone to push the e-brake and see if the cable is moving?

Yes.