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Truck won't start, confused as he k


It as if the voltage was slowly climbing, I don't think pulling the fuses had anything to do with it.the voltage creeped steadily until the audio system fuse was pulled.
 
That's weird that pulling a fuse would put a draw on the system.
It didn't. With a draw on the system, the voltage was lower because the battery was under a load. So pulling the fuse that has the draw removed the load and battery voltage went up. He got decent results by doing the test wrong.

The parasitic drain test should be done by measuring current. Not voltage. Go back to the procedure I posted yesterday.
 
As you pull each fuse it takes a little bit of the load off the battery, if there is a load. So the voltage creeps up. But it doesn't make sense that the voltage dropped when he pulled the radio fuse, it should have creeped up when the keep alive was disconnected.
 
As you pull each fuse it takes a little bit of the load off the battery, if there is a load. So the voltage creeps up. But it doesn't make sense that the voltage dropped when he pulled the radio fuse, it should have creeped up when the keep alive was disconnected.
I agree. But the radio load should be so low as to be negligible. We might just be seeing normal error in the readings there. Testing by this method (watching voltage instead of current) is not nearly as accurate or reliable in this case as using current readings should be.
 
Ok. Apologies guys. Work was nuts there for a bit. Anyway. I tested currant. The hot wire to my radio pulls 15.7 ma with the ignition on, and it slowly climbs to 16.7 is the highest.
 
So this is the second alternator, 3rd starter and 3rd battery in less then 6 months. I just did the starter relay too. When the truck sits, ignition off, the positive battery terminal gets really warm to touch, but not while driving. When I got to start it, I get one click outta the relay and then it acts like a dead battery. Any ideas?
Check the bottom of the wiring harness going into the steering column ,, theres a starter contact switch box with a plug in,, its very possible that the release mechanism is not pulling the contact plate back all the way keeping the system partaly energized.. Also check your glove box too see if the lamp is on also,, make sure all your accessories are off.. It is my bestter judment that you will find the issue in this area.
 
I have a multi meter, but am self taught so I'm not the best at using all of its functions.
If the battery is fresh it will start. And I can drive it for hours and the cable is cold. It's only while it's off that the positive gets hot
Check or change your starter contact switch on the bottom of your steering column it has a plugin with several wires.. the contact plate switch could be worn out and or not releasing completly when turned to the off position.Check your glove box light and make sure it is not the cause of battery drain,, easiest way is to pull it out and double check any extra electrical devices you may have installed bypassing the accessory switch ..
 
Whoa, I've been so busy I forgot to post the solve. It seems the previous owner had installed the stereo wrong. He grounded out on of the power wires. Truck has been peachy keen. Just need to the the check engine light to work now lol. Thank you all for your help!
 
Did this also solve the the other electrical issues you were experiencing with things like the gauge cluster and 3rd brake light?
 

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