Truck won't start, confused as he k

[96splash!]

So this is the second alternator, 3rd starter and 3rd battery in less then 6 months. I just did the starter relay too. When the truck sits, ignition off, the positive battery terminal gets really warm to touch, but not while driving. When I got to start it, I get one click outta the relay and then it acts like a dead battery. Any ideas?

 

[Curious Hound]

It sounds like you have a large parasitic drain on the battery. Charge the battery. Then disconnect it. Then, the next day, connect it and see if the truck starts.

The next trick will be finding out what is draining the battery. For that, you will need a multimeter capable of measuring current.

 

[96splash!]

I have a multi meter, but am self taught so I'm not the best at using all of its functions.
If the battery is fresh it will start. And I can drive it for hours and the cable is cold. It's only while it's off that the positive gets hot

 

[Curious Hound]

When the engine is running, the alternator is supplying all the vehicle electrical needs and slightly charging the battery. So, the terminal would not get warm with the engine running.

I'll try to write up a test procedure for you later this evening If nobody beats me to it. The basic idea is to disconnect the negative battery cable and connect your meter between the negative cable and negative battery terminal, with the meter set on DC amps and the meter leads in the proper holes for reading amps. There are some other details to know, though.

 

[pentode]

If you already know how to test for current on your multimeter, cool... if not, it might be helpful to post a fairly close picture of your meter so we can tell you exactly how to set it up.
Otherwise the basic procedure is exactly what @ericbphoto described. I'm not sure what other steps he might have in mind but I'd just suggest situation the negative cable in a nice secure spot where it's not touching anything and be careful to bridge the gap between the negative cable and the negative post with the leads only, _not_ your fingers or other body parts. Shouldn't be a big deal, but it sounds like you're dealing with a parasitic draw of several amps at least, so better safe than sorry.

Edit: I'd just like to amend this because I don't want to be accused of fear-mongering, and I never want to discourage anyone from working on their cars in any way. You're _very_ unlikely to ever be hurt by car electrics. I just think it's a bad habit to get into to think "this is 99.9% unlikely to hurt me" because those habits can carry over to other things you might do with a multimeter. It's like the old "tuck in your pony tail and your gold chain when you're using the planer" or "keep one hand in your back pocket while probing high voltage circuits." So, don't be afraid of testing on your car, it's just a best practices thing for me. And don't do that test if you happen to be standing in the ocean or the Great Salt Lake.

 

[RobbieD]

Just be careful and use common sense. When unsure, research it or ask questions here.

You have to start somewhere. Here's me, back when I was learning electrical:

But it does get better as you go along . . . .

Note that PPE is always a good idea.

 

[96splash!]

Haha I didn't see any kind of fear-monger type stuff. The electrical system should be respected(any system really),

I'll dig out my multi meter and post pics. Might be a day or two, I need a new battery, this one is leaking fluid from the top.

 

[Curious Hound]

To test for a parasitic drain on your battery;

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Set up your multimeter for reading current (amps). This means turning the dial or moving the appropriate switches to select current reading. It may also require moving one of the test leads to a different port on the meter.
3. Connect the meter in series between the negative battery terminal and negative cable. Make sure the cable connection is not sitting on a metal surface like the fender or engine.
4. Remove the key. Make sure the doors are closed and unplug the underhood light if you have one. You may want to leave the windows open.
5. Do not disturb the vehicle. Most modern vehicles have timers built in that allow some things to remain powered for a while after you turn off the key. This is called a battery saver relay. We must wait ( maybe up to 15 or 20 minutes?) For this relay to turn everything off. If you open a door or disturb the vehicle in any way, it turns the relay back on.
6. Observe the current reading in the meter. Anything lower than 30ma (30 milliamps or 0.030amps) is generally considered good. Much more than that and you probably have a problem.

The next step is to start removing fuses, one by one until the current draw (amps) goes down to an acceptable level. The last fuse you remove that drops the current reading is the circuit that has the problem.

If the fuse that has the problem is the one that feeds the cab fuse panel, then re-install that fuse and continue by checking the individual fuses in the cab fuse panel.

Always check the fuses in the engine bay fuse box first, they feed power(12v) to the cab fuse box fuses

There are very few full time power circuits so focus on those. But pretty much ALL the the engine bay fuses have full time power, so check them all, as one of their wires could be shorted

 

[pjtoledo]

do you have an alarm system? or aftermarket audio/amp?
any other extra stuff?

 

[96splash!]

do you have an alarm system? or aftermarket audio/amp?
any other extra stuff?

The previous owner installed a cheap sound system,only to remove the amp and leave the power wire in place.... I removed the power wire.

There are some other quirks I forgot to add, my check engine light and most of the indicators on the gauge panel do not work. The gauges and turn signals work fine. I replaced all the bulbs with quality LED bulbs, they still don't work.

None of the exterior lights worked, so I replaced all of the bulb sockets for the headlights and tail lights. The 3rd break light on the cab doesn't work, the dome light fixture is completely missing. From time to time I will hear a loud alarm coming from under the dash. It's not the headlights buzzer, or a door ajar ding, never heard a car make this noise. The horn works rarely if at all. The dash mount power socket only powers a cigarette lighter, phone chargers will not work. The ashtray mounted socket can be a diva as well.

It's a base model 2wd splash. So no power windows or locks no 4wd,

It's embarassing but I did just have an IID (Ignition interlock device) removed..... Don't drive stoned.. lol

The install place swears up and down that their device did no damage but the truck wasn't burning up alternators, starters and battery's until about 3 or 4 months of their device being in the truck.

Sorry if that's too much info. Found my multi meter but it's no longer working. I'll get one tomorrow.

 

[96splash!]

Ok. Got a good battery, and a new multi meter. This should be the correct setting for checking yess?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Ok. Got a good battery, and a new multi meter. This should be the correct setting for checking yess?View attachment 114470

You need to set it on 20. Battery voltage is 12 to 13 volts. 12.8 is good (new). 12.2 is discharged or old.

 

[Curious Hound]

What @alwaysFlOoReD said is correct for testing voltage. Checking your battery voltage is an excellent first step.

For testing amps, you will rotate the knob to the scales with the "A===" symbol AND move the red lead over to the port in the left that is labeled "10A". For lesser scales of current reading, it looks like you would keep the leads connected where they are. Since you noticed the battery cables getting warm, start with the 10amp range. Hopefully the current isn't higher than that. If it is, it could blow the fuse inside the meter. It should be replaceable.

 

[96splash!]

Noted. First off , thank you guys so much for taking the time to impart this knowledge to me. This truck isn't much, but it's all I have. So thank you guys so much!

Moving on, the voltage started at 12.40 and every very fuses it would raise up a digit or two. By the time I was at the interior fuse box it was 12.90v, until I pulled fuse 29, the audio system fuse.it dropped back down to 12.80.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

That's weird that pulling a fuse would put a draw on the system.