Powering up power windows

[svtcards]

I bought 2 power window door lock doors last fall but both windows were left down from an 89 bronco ii. Does anyone know which wires I need to power up to get them back up. I thought I powered them up correctly but both won't go up at all.no noise at all.what r the chances they both don't work? or did I not use the correct wires to power them up? .Also I hear clicking from the door locks on both doors but they won't lock or unlock.

 

[RobbieD]

I thought I powered them up correctly

Where is it that you're trying to do this?

If you're in the door there's only two wires at the motor. You'll have to apply a power and a ground to the two wires. The direction comes from which one gets power and which one gets ground.

Window motors and lock actuators both work that way.

If you're trying to power the switch, and then work the switch, again you'll need to supply both a power and a ground to the switch.

 

[svtcards]

Where is it that you're trying to do this?

If you're in the door there's only two wires at the motor. You'll have to apply a power and a ground to the two wires. The direction comes from which one gets power and which one gets ground.

Window motors and lock actuators both work that way.

If you're trying to power the switch, and then work the switch, again you'll need to supply both a power and a ground to the switch.

So if I put power to motor directly it should go up? I was using my lawnmower battery to add power directly to switch but nothing happened

 

[RobbieD]

So if I put power to motor directly it should go up?

Yes; power and ground.

Power one wire, ground to the other. If the window moves the wrong direction, simply reverse your connections.

 

[svtcards]

Do u know what wires to power up on the harness so I can bring it up and down on the switch? I'm not sure if switch is causing not to move or what.i ll try wires that r directly to motor to see if it ll move at all 1st. How do u test the switches?

 

[SenorNoob]

Being an 89, it's most likely a 6 pin switch. It'll have power in and ground on 2 contacts side by side. Probably the middle. Then output will be on the outer edges of the switch. Which side will have power and ground will depend on which way the switch is pushed. Expect it to connect the opposite side of the direction you push the switch. IE: if you push the switch up, power and ground will be on the bottom.

 

[Curious Hound]

Is that lawnmower battery 6volts or 12volts? You need 12volts.

 

[RobbieD]

Do u know what wires to power up on the harness so I can bring it up and down on the switch? I'm not sure if switch is causing not to move or what.i ll try wires that r directly to motor to see if it ll move at all 1st. How do u test the switches?

Driver's switch is power Lt Blu/Blk, and ground Black.

The passenger switch is a little different, as it's the secondary switch of a pair. Power again is Lt Blu/Blk, but you'll need to ground the Yel/Blk AND Red/Blk wires (coming from the driver's primary switch).

You can put a 12v test light across the two motor wires; if it lights when the switch is pushed (either direction) then the switch should be good.

Hopefully the door harnesses were unplugged at the radiator support for the door removal. If not, and the wires were chopped, make sure that the hacked ends aren't shorting together.

And like Eric mentioned, you'll need a 12 volt battery with sufficient amperage to operate the windows.

 

[svtcards]

These doors came off a 89 bronco ii I haven't installed in my 87 bronco ii yet. so I need to cut and splice something together to see if either door power options work

 

[svtcards]

Knowing this bit of info what do u recommend now?

 

[svtcards]

Driver's switch is power Lt Blu/Blk, and ground Black.

The passenger switch is a little different, as it's the secondary switch of a pair. Power again is Lt Blu/Blk, but you'll need to ground the Yel/Blk AND Red/Blk wires (coming from the driver's primary switch).

You can put a 12v test light across the two motor wires; if it lights when the switch is pushed (either direction) then the switch should be good.

Hopefully the door harnesses were unplugged at the radiator support for the door removal. If not, and the wires were chopped, make sure that the hacked ends aren't shorting together.

And like Eric mentioned, you'll need a 12 volt battery with sufficient amperage to operate the windows.

Is that lawnmower battery 6volts or 12volts? You need 12volts.

12v 12amp

 

[svtcards]

Driver's switch is power Lt Blu/Blk, and ground Black.

The passenger switch is a little different, as it's the secondary switch of a pair. Power again is Lt Blu/Blk, but you'll need to ground the Yel/Blk AND Red/Blk wires (coming from the driver's primary switch).

You can put a 12v test light across the two motor wires; if it lights when the switch is pushed (either direction) then the switch should be good.

Hopefully the door harnesses were unplugged at the radiator support for the door removal. If not, and the wires were chopped, make sure that the hacked ends aren't shorting together.

And like Eric mentioned, you'll need a 12 volt battery with sufficient amperage to operate the windows.

Ground is blk /white strip correct? Only black 1 on here

 

[svtcards]

I grounded the yel/blk and red/blk and powered the lt blu black and window goes up and down. Now which wires powers the door locks

 

[RobbieD]

Black/White should be the power to the driver door lock switch. The wiring diagram also shows plain Black as the ground to the driver switch.

Try the diagram here:

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-wiring-diagrams/

edit: added diagram image

 

[svtcards]

Black/White should be the power to the driver door lock switch. The wiring diagram also shows plain Black as the ground to the driver switch.

Try the diagram here:

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-wiring-diagrams/


View attachment 110925

edit: added diagram image

There's no plan black wire just black / white strip on both doors wiring harness