not sure what you mean here....but i am assuming you need a cable driven speedometer style...which for sure adds complication to getting a decent unit.
a4ld.... i have put 2.3 bellhousing on 3.0 and 2.9 a4ld 4x4 transmissions for 2.3 4x4... just the bell. because ford did not offer the auto with the 2.3 4x4...
of course finding even the 3.0 and cologne models these days is not so easy. i do have a 4r44e in my pile....i do the same thing for the mazda L.
so true a4ld units i have swapped bells with success which broadens the likelihood of getting something to work.
if i remember right the 4r44 is even swapable.....the 5 r had the front geartrain changes. though i would have to look at that....i have been through some options on the mazda L for ecoboost potential
I meant as in changing the bell housing is more work than I’m looking to get into as if I’m going to tear it down I’d just start with the rebuild of the trucks original transmission. I could be completely wrong but it was my understanding to change the bell housing on an A4LD pretty much requires full tear down, I was looking for something to either rebuild to put in the truck as my current transmission is “working-ish” or one that’s working I could simply swap in while I rebuild the original for a back up which (shockingly to me) I actually found and purchased which also came from a 94 3 liter 2wd truck just like mine.
As far as the cable driven speedometer set up goes I did see that 91-93 were listed as cable driven speedometer on carpart.com while 94 had no notation, however in my digging found that it seems some 94’s had cable driven and some have an electronic speed sensor, wether that’s true or not I don’t know and if it is I don’t know if it depended on build date or the plant that it was built in or what the story was. My truck had been in Winter storage since early November up until yesterday when I got it out and brought it home so I haven’t dug into it in a while but I’m also almost positive mine is cable driven. I have seen some 94’s with a 5 digit odometer and some with a 6 digit, mine is a 5 digit, while I’ve never found a definitive answer I SUSPECT that the cable driven speedo clusters had the 5 digit odometer and the ones on the electronic speed sensor trucks had the 6 digit as 94 is the only year I’ve seen that style cluster with a 6 digit odometer before the 95 redesign, all 93 and prior trucks I’ve seen had the 5 digit, again could be entirely wrong there too but just a theory.
The reason I was a bit broad in my search is I had read that it was not difficult to use a cable driven speedometer in an A4LD trans that came with an electronic speed sensor and vice versa as RonD mentioned above.
In my case my transmission has never been what I would call healthy. Just for the sake of back story, when I bought the truck 2 years ago at 95k miles from my hands on with C3’s and C4’s with my dad growing up I could tell the vacuum modulator was bad as it would hang for a second in 1st then bang into 2nd, bang into reverse, and at highway speeds sometimes fail to shift into overdrive unless I dropped it to “D” then manually commanded overdrive. Replacing the modulator corrected these issues except the bang into reverse which it still made much less aggressive and only when the transmission isn’t warmed up, problem it did create is after replacing it it flaired on the 1-2 shift (revs up about 500ish rpm then catches 2nd gear). Not a big deal and I just dealt with it the last 2 years however I did try different things to correct it. Fluid was nasty so I had it flushed (I know you SHOULDNT do this but the fluid was stage 8 severe bad looking) and refilled with Mercon V, no change. Adjusted the bands, no change. Dropped the pan and changed the filter and retorqued the valve body bolts and topped off with more fresh Mercon V and a bottle of Lucas transmission sauce (have seen it work miracles in the past) but no improvement. Final straw was last year I tried adjusting the kickdown cable, at that point the only difference that made is now when the transmission is cold and you give it over 50%ish throttle it’ll fall out of gear and if it kicks down to too low of a gear and revs too high it falls out of gear or when warm if you give it more than 75%ish throttle it falls out of gear. At that point the way I see it is if it’s falling out of gear and free reving something is going on internal and it’ll need a rebuild. I have a new adjustable vacuum modulator sitting on the shelf and had considered the Transgo correction kit, but I feel since it’s falling out of gear under heavy throttle trying anything further to correct it is a moot point and waste of time on this particular transmission. Like I said, it’s still “working-ish”not giving it too much throttle, made the 150 mile drive home without a hiccup after sitting garaged for over 4 months without being started or anything, it has borrowed time at least so I might try to keep it alive through this season and put my Talon in storage at my property next off season and keep the truck here to work on it instead of tearing right into it.
Only reason for the long drug out response is as RonD mentioned to maybe help someone that comes across this information in the future. Yes I marked the thread “found” over a week ago but love the input that I’m seeing as this is the same kind of info on forums I read on to help me along my way with my truck and other projects I have so if someone ever comes across this thread while searching for information perhaps it can be to some help to them, I really do appreciate all the helpful input from you guys!
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 
