Welp time to turn the ranger into a death trap.

[That_4.0_ranger]

Well ive decided to get a lift for my truck since im working on a budget im gonna go with the 4in rough country with the replacement springs. The rear of the truck is a no brainer but the front looks a bit more complicated is there any recommendations or tips to lifting these old ttb front ends?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Done right there’s no death trap to it. Biggest thing is finding a shop that knows how to properly align the TTB. The rest is pretty straightforward.

 

[rumblecloud]

Pretty much everything you need to know is right here.


Look at this piece
Getting The Most From Your TTB Suspension

It helped me understand what I was doing and how it would affect steering and suspension.

 

[Curious Hound]

If you're buying and installing a lift kit from a major manufacturer, there isn't much to figure out. Take your time, follow the instructions and work safely. You can ask questions and get help from the manufacturer or from us. Plus. Reading the articles in the tech library as mentioned above will help you understand how this suspension system works.

Be sure to use jack stands when working under your truck. Do not rely on the jack alone to suspend the vehicle. Also. Chock the wheels that are on the ground to prevent them from rolling and allowing the vehicle to fall.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yes, I’d put it in 4x4, block wheels that are on the ground, use jack stands, be careful, etc. any time I put a vehicle on a jackstand (unless I’m just tossing one under while I swap a tire out), I’ll get the vehicle set on the stand and then do a ”bump and wiggle” check. Shove on the truck some and try to induce a little wiggle. See if it moves. If it does, I re-position, add another stand, etc. Last thing I want to do is close a cab door or bump into it or be wiggling something free and have the truck shift and/or come off the stands.

 

[holyford86]

Done right there’s no death trap to it. Biggest thing is finding a shop that knows how to properly align the TTB. The rest is pretty straightforward.

I'm pretty sure it's the automotive equivalent to using an Ouija board, it takes a bit to get it right, but once it's done right it'll be fine for a good long while, I've been running a 6 inch skyjacker lift for well over a decade, it's been aligned twice during that time, one time only being a toe set and it still wears tires perfectly flat (and the truck handles better than my stock 98 4x2)

Yes, I’d put it in 4x4, block wheels that are on the ground, use jack stands, be careful, etc. any time I put a vehicle on a jackstand (unless I’m just tossing one under while I swap a tire out), I’ll get the vehicle set on the stand and then do a ”bump and wiggle” check. Shove on the truck some and try to induce a little wiggle. See if it moves. If it does, I re-position, add another stand, etc. Last thing I want to do is close a cab door or bump into it or be wiggling something free and have the truck shift and/or come off the stands.

As someone who has had a truck fall on them ( and almost lose a leg below the knee as a result) due to cutting corners on safety, I second this.

 

[sgtsandman]

When you're done, lend it to @bobbywalter to work out the bugs. If there is a bug, he'll find it!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I would avoid rough country.

They used to be bad about punching holes in the front diff housing of D35's despite having stiff springs.

 

[Snoranger]

Yes, I’d put it in 4x4, block wheels that are on the ground, use jack stands, be careful, etc. any time I put a vehicle on a jackstand (unless I’m just tossing one under while I swap a tire out), I’ll get the vehicle set on the stand and then do a ”bump and wiggle” check. Shove on the truck some and try to induce a little wiggle. See if it moves. If it does, I re-position, add another stand, etc. Last thing I want to do is close a cab door or bump into it or be wiggling something free and have the truck shift and/or come off the stands.

Last week a guy in my shop finished a brake job for another guy. He lowered a F450 mason dump off the jack stands and found out the he hard way that it wasn’t in park. It rolled back and crushed him against the bay door. He got the wind knocked out of him, soft tissue damage, bruised rib cage, a few cuts/ scrapes, and pretty much passed out.
Here’s a re-enactment of the incident... Yes, that’s the exact sound he made when it happened:

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I would avoid rough country.

They used to be bad about punching holes in the front diff housing of D35's despite having stiff springs.

Well, there is this. I would recommend James Duff. Skyjacker would be a good second choice. My method was a build-your-own.

 

[That_4.0_ranger]

I would avoid rough country.

They used to be bad about punching holes in the front diff housing of D35's despite having stiff springs.

I read about that in the tech library but i ended up getting rough country because its all i really can afford and im just gonna hope and pray it don't hit my dif.

 

[That_4.0_ranger]

When you're done, lend it to @bobbywalter to work out the bugs. If there is a bug, he'll find it!

Yea im gonna have to ask him about something after installing the lift it has a really bad shake in the rear when i takes off

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yea im gonna have to ask him about something after installing the lift it has a really bad shake in the rear when i takes off

Does it use blocks for the rear? Did you stack them on the factory blocks if so?

IMHO, I think I would have waited until I could afford a better lift or something. I did my lift to my choptop on the cheap using the tech library. I had got my hands on 2” lift coils and the truck had air shocks in the back that I pumped up. Then I had found a used James Duff set of 3” coils and axle pivot drops. Found someone to Fab up some extended control arms. Used the Belltech Chevy drop shackles in the rear. Then I added the F-150 spring perches to the front and built custom leaf packs for the rear. Bought a drop pitman arm. Shocks I took my compressed and extended lengths and the ends I needed and had a parts store dig through the books until they found what would work. Eventually built my own extended control arms. Added a 2” body lift too. Whole process took a few years and eventually I’ll probably do something better for the lift, but I was able to do it cheaply and it works. Well, I probably spent in parts and time what it would have cost to buy a Duff or Skyjacker lift from the start, but it was spread over a few years so a bit more manageable to someone short on cash.

 

[That_4.0_ranger]

Does it use blocks for the rear? Did you stack them on the factory blocks if so?

IMHO, I think I would have waited until I could afford a better lift or something. I did my lift to my choptop on the cheap using the tech library. I had got my hands on 2” lift coils and the truck had air shocks in the back that I pumped up. Then I had found a used James Duff set of 3” coils and axle pivot drops. Found someone to Fab up some extended control arms. Used the Belltech Chevy drop shackles in the rear. Then I added the F-150 spring perches to the front and built custom leaf packs for the rear. Bought a drop pitman arm. Shocks I took my compressed and extended lengths and the ends I needed and had a parts store dig through the books until they found what would work. Eventually built my own extended control arms. Added a 2” body lift too. Whole process took a few years and eventually I’ll probably do something better for the lift, but I was able to do it cheaply and it works. Well, I probably spent in parts and time what it would have cost to buy a Duff or Skyjacker lift from the start, but it was spread over a few years so a bit more manageable to someone short on cash.

I did not stack blocks my lift came new leaf springs but i did put the factory blocks under them. But that lift you described sounds like my dads first ranger that he home built a 12in suspension lift and a 2 or 3in body lift

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I did not stack blocks my lift came new leaf springs but i did put the factory blocks under them. But that lift you described sounds like my dads first ranger that he home built a 12in suspension lift and a 2 or 3in body lift

Glad to hear that. Sure everything got torqued down? Sure nothing worked loose? My F-150 when I put new spring packs on, I torqued the one pack bolt down twice before I put a longer bolt in and a regular nut plus a nylock nut and locktite. Still have no idea why it kept working loose. I’m just kinda throwing out ideas. I ended up with about 5” of suspension lift. No blocks in the rear, it’s Explorer packs plus a couple leafs and a shackle. Front is 3” coils on the 2” you get out of the spring perches. I used Ballistic Fab joints on the control arms.