1998 3.0 upper intake manifold

[Sldr91]

Can't find an upper intake manifold new or used so maybe someone can help me with a solution..the male ends for the vacuum lines on top of the manifold, one of them is completely loose and able to be pulled out..has anyone fixed this before or maybe someone has a 3.0 upper intake manifold layin around.

 

[RonD]

Try some JB weld, won't hurt, and will get you going until a another one is found

EDIT:

Aren't those the pre-heater coolant lines?
So not vacuum ports, and unless you live north of Detroit you don't need them hooked up
Thats why it broke, got rusty and corroded

Look like these: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attac...5815-leaking-top-intake-manifold-dscn0785.jpg

 

[Sldr91]

Do you think the truck would idle more smooth if the lines were
hooked up? And what exactly is not working with the lines not being hooked up?

 

[RonD]

The 3.0l Vulcan engine had an issue with the throttle body icing up in COLD winters, i.e. below freezing temps all day and all night long

So Ford added "T"s to the two heater hoses, and ran warm coolant thru coolant passages in the throttle body, to keep it warmed up

The "T"s were notorious for cracking and leaking and replacement Ford hoses were expensive
So most just ran regular heater hose deleting the "T"s and coolant flow thru the throttle body
So no its not needed, and some even said it preforms better, but I can't see that happening, lol, but it, for sure, won't run worse without the coolant flow, even in winter

 

[cbxer55]

Those aren't vacuum lines. Two offshoots from the heater hoses attach there to warm the intake manifold behind the throttle body. I deleted mine years ago and capped off those two barbs. I've never had one single issue with the intake icing up. And I have a hood scoop over top of the engine that drops cold air all over the intake manifold. I drive it in below zero temps with no problems at all.

It won't affect performance to leave them open, but just put a rubber cap on it or seal it with silicone and be done with it. .

 

[cbxer55]

On mine, I simply disconnected the two hoses and joined them together with a brass tube and two hose clamps. Thinking about getting some mew heater hose and eliminating all vestiges of them entirely.

OP, look at your heater hoses on the passenger side. See if there are T's in them. Are the hoses that branch off the heater hoses capped off, joined together, or gone entirely? Just curious.

 

[Curious Hound]

As mentioned above, you have options to delete that feature.

However, if you still want to replace the upper intake, I have 2 available. $30.00 + shipping cost for either one. (My local junk yard charges $39.00) they weigh about 12 lbs, shipping from zip 29385. Either one ships as they are pictured. The 2000 includes bolts.

Option A; from 2000 3.0l. No throttle body.

Option B; 1997 3.0l. Integral throttle body.

 

[Sldr91]

On mine, I simply disconnected the two hoses and joined them together with a brass tube and two hose clamps. Thinking about getting some mew heater hose and eliminating all vestiges of them entirely.

OP, look at your heater hoses on the passenger side. See if there are T's in them. Are the hoses that branch off the heater hoses capped off, joined together, or gone entirely? Just curious.

They were capped off by the previous owner

 

[Sldr91]

As mentioned above, you have options to delete that feature.

However, if you still want to replace the upper intake, I have 2 available. $30.00 + shipping cost for either one. (My local junk yard charges $39.00) they weigh about 12 lbs, shipping from zip 29385. Either one ships as they are pictured. The 2000 includes bolts.

Option A; from 2000 3.0l. No throttle body.
View attachment 63251

View attachment 63252

View attachment 63253


Option B; 1997 3.0l. Integral throttle body.

View attachment 63254

View attachment 63255

Would either of these be better than the other

 

[cbxer55]

You're better off just putting some silicone seal over the broken part and forgetting about it. It won't hurt a thing. From what I can see in your picture, there's enough material there to just put a rubber cap on it and be done with it. As was said, unless you live north of Detroit, the heated manifold is totally unnecessary.

I like the pictures the guy posted though. That one vacuum line that runs underneath the manifold can cause the two lean codes, P0171 and 174. Mine is 23 years old and may need to e replaced. Doesn't look like a terrible job removing the manifold. Thinking about just deleting the entire PCV system, going old school breathers on both valve covers. PCV came about due to emissions requirements. They're not checked here. I've already done away with the EGR.

 

[Curious Hound]

Would either of these be better than the other

Whichever one more closely resembles the one you have. Does yours have the throttlebody built-in? Or can your throttlebody be removed?

 

[Sldr91]

You're better off just putting some silicone seal over the broken part and forgetting about it. It won't hurt a thing. From what I can see in your picture, there's enough material there to just put a rubber cap on it and be done with it. As was said, unless you live north of Detroit, the heated manifold is totally unnecessary.

I'll probably leave it be, missouri doesn't get to crazy for long lol

 

[cbxer55]

Whichever one more closely resembles the one you have. Does yours have the throttlebody built-in? Or can your throttlebody be removed?

98 has an individual throttle body, not built in.

 

[cbxer55]

I'll probably leave it be, missouri doesn't get to crazy for long lol

It's not an emissions item in any event. Heating the manifold was just done because at some time, someone had some ice build up there. You could just cut those two tubes flush with the upper surface of the manifold, fill in the holes with a little RTV, and it'd be totally okay.

 

[Curious Hound]

98 has an individual throttle body, not built in.

That would be the 2000 that I have. But really, a couple squirts out of a $5.00 tube of caulk is what I would use.