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2.3L ('02-'11) bad news, even though 3 out of 4 ain't bad


pjtoledo

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Oct 5, 2007
Messages
6,434
City
Toledo Ohio
Vehicle Year
20002005199
2005 2.3 has been getting worse lately, oil consumption is real bad and the rough running got way worse last week.

decided to put some E3 plugs in today to see if they tolerate oil fouling better than the Autolites.
ran a compression test and cylinder 1 was only 80 psi, yikes!! :shok:

all is not lost yet, the rest were 220, 210, 212. plus the plugs were OK in those cylinders.

so, with an oil fouled plug in cyl1 and no compression, it's just about over for this engine.
it has 366,200 miles on it so I won't cry too many tears.
I bought it new for a work truck, it served it's purpose and then some.

the worst part is now I have to get off my butt and do some serious work on it.
 
It looks good for its high miles, not sure how it is underneath but does appear to be worth overhauling or repowering. My ‘94 is at 160K and though it’s running alright it has some bad rust issues, worst one the cab mounting rib drivers side front. I’ll drive it till it drops but Ive been on the lookout for a replacement, almost bought a black 05-06 shortbed, kind of wish I did now but 3K seemed a bit much for a 2wd reg cab with 220K on the clock but after everything else Ive seen online lately its not that unreasonable.
 
Have you done a wet compression test? Might just need a new head or a rebuild. Wishful thinking but oil consumption and poor compression could be from a bad guide and bent/burnt valve. But at 360k it doesn't owe you anything. :icon_rofl:
 
One possibility.
Your rings maybe seized to the piston, causing them to make a poor seal.

Could find a way to free them?
 
One possibility.
Your rings maybe seized to the piston, causing them to make a poor seal.

Could find a way to free them?

Run it, get it working hard not just loafing around.
 
Paradise by the dashboard light? Curious to know how the cylinder walls look at that mileage.
 
The cylinder walls are replaceable... :icon_rofl:
 
always wanted to use darton sleeves on a block, just don’t think a Lima is a good candidate.

He has a Duratec not a Lima, Duratecs are already sleeved.
 
sounds like a easy rebuild as long as the sleeves pull easily. Send the crank in to be turned, a bearing set, timing chain and tentioners, new set of sleeves/pistons/rings , new oil pump, water pump and your good for another 300K
Oh- and head bolts, they use those 1 time use only “tourque to yield” bolts. not a fan of that, Ive no problem with new hardware but the tourque to yield thing just bugs me, Id rather do the tourque wrench setting thing than 45 degrees after bolt head contacts head. My moms mazda 3 needed to be gone through after a unsuccessful water crossing 7 years ago, only had 5,000 miles on it. Was a clean engine to work on but those head bolts! thought for sure one would snap or strip out. It didnt though, she still drives that car to this day, not sure of her milage now but it’s probably up there a bit.
 
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Have you done a wet compression test? Might just need a new head or a rebuild. Wishful thinking but oil consumption and poor compression could be from a bad guide and bent/burnt valve. But at 360k it doesn't owe you anything. :icon_rofl:

considering how much oil was in the plug wells, it was definitely a wet compression test.
 
I tried a borescope, the plug wells are so deep on overhead cam engines you can't easily get the scope pointed sideways.

a replacement engine is already in my garage, now all I need is just a bit (lot) more ambition.
Paradise by the dashboard light? Curious to know how the cylinder walls look at that mileage.


I'll post the teardown results when it happens.
tonight it's time for some meatloaf.
 
One possibility.
Your rings maybe seized to the piston, causing them to make a poor seal.

Could find a way to free them?


at 366,200 miles the best way to free them will be replacing them. and the piston.

I assume that a mere 80 PSI is more serious than stuck rings.
 
I just find it odd that the other 3 are still holding great compression. Generally with a old worn out engine with bad rings or worn cylinder walls you see low compression across the board even if one is particularly bad. That's what makes me think its a head issue and not a cylinder issue. But with 360k you either rebuild the whole thing or replace it anyway so doesn't really matter. Just be interesting to see what went wrong and what a 360k duratec looks like inside.
 
sounds like a easy rebuild as long as the sleeves pull easily. Send the crank in to be turned, a bearing set, timing chain and tentioners, new set of sleeves/pistons/rings , new oil pump, water pump and your good for another 300K
Oh- and head bolts, they use those 1 time use only “tourque to yield” bolts. not a fan of that, Ive no problem with new hardware but the tourque to yield thing just bugs me, Id rather do the tourque wrench setting thing than 45 degrees after bolt head contacts head. My moms mazda 3 needed to be gone through after a unsuccessful water crossing 7 years ago, only had 5,000 miles on it. Was a clean engine to work on but those head bolts! thought for sure one would snap or strip out. It didnt though, she still drives that car to this day, not sure of her milage now but it’s probably up there a bit.

I don't thing the sleeves are really replaceable on the newer sleeved engines.
 

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