M5OD HELP w/ videos

[facemaze]

01 2.3l manual rwd M5OD

Long story short, my shift bushing disintegrated during a blizzard. I lost all transmission of power to the wheels. Got the smell of burnt toast. After swapping out the bushing, inspecting and removing brushing pieces from the trans, new clutch, flywheel, bearing, rear main seal. I checked the fork, synchros, and cycled through every gear by hand with and withou the top cover on then double checked before installation. Thought I had it this time. So I have attached some videos.

The first video is of me putting the truck into 1st and releasing the clutch.

The second is of me trying to move and give it gas to go in first gear.

 

[RonD]

How is it the drive shaft is moving but rear wheel(I can see) did not?
Is the other rear wheel off the ground and turning with drive shaft?

 

[facemaze]

How is it the drive shaft is moving but rear wheel(I can see) did not?
Is the other rear wheel off the ground and turning with drive shaft?

Im not sure why the drive shaft would spin and the rear wheels wouldnt. Something i just was able to see was that when the truck was off and shifted into gear it rolled freely as if in neutral.

Both wheels were on the ground. It rolls because my garage is on a slight slant but i cant feel any grab in the back.

 

[RonD]

Then problem is in the differential

Put trans in Neutral, engine off and see if you can turn drive shaft with wheels on the ground, you should NOT be able to turn it even a little one way or the other

But in any case, drain the oil and open differential, I think you will see the problem

 

[facemaze]

Then problem is in the differential

Put trans in Neutral, engine off and see if you can turn drive shaft with wheels on the ground, you should NOT be able to turn it even a little one way or the other

But in any case, drain the oil and open differential, I think you will see the problem

Does the engine need to be on?

 

[facemaze]

Does the engine need to be on?

Because if not, then I just tested with engine off and drive shaft spun very easily

 

[RonD]

Differential is the problem

Should look like this: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attac...-changing-spider-gears-2007-8-8-diffparts.jpg

Not like this: https://www.mechanic.com.au/images/dmImage/StandardImage/Diff-issues-11.jpg

Yes, as said "Put trans in Neutral, engine off.................."

 

[facemaze]

Differential is the problem

Should look like this: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attac...-changing-spider-gears-2007-8-8-diffparts.jpg

Not like this: https://www.mechanic.com.au/images/dmImage/StandardImage/Diff-issues-11.jpg

Yes, as said "Put trans in Neutral, engine off.................."

Correct you are sir

I have no idea what im looking at @RonD

Any help or plan or approach would be lovely.

Thank you

 

[sheep herder]

That's broke.

 

[facemaze]

That's broke.

Doesnt Ford just make em like that for a reason?

 

[sheep herder]

Doesnt Ford just make em like that for a reason?

No. Somewhere up in the housing, there should be a cross pin and the bolt that locks the cross pin in place. You should be able to find an exploded view of a 7.5 or 8.8 axle to see what it's supposed to be like.

 

[Curious Hound]

 

[RonD]

Your best option, in my opinion, is to look up what axle ratio you have now and then buy the whole axle assembly from a wrecking yard

On back edge of drivers door is your build label
Under AXLE will be a 2 digit code, then look it up here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

You can use either a 7.5'' or 8.8" axle, they both bolt in the same way and use the same drive shaft

Upgrading to a L/S(limited slip) would be a nice upgrade, again no external changes needed OPEN or L/S just bolt in

Contrary to what's happened to yours, the 7.5" and 8.8" Ranger axle is a pretty safe buy used

car-part.com is a good place to search your area

Looking for "rear axle assy(RWD)"

1993 to 2009 7.5" or 8.8" rear axle assembly from a Ranger or Mazda B-series, will work your 2001 Ranger
Obviously, later years should have lower miles on them
You can use 9" or 10" brakes
Look at your rear brake drums, if you see fins then they are 9", if the drums are smooth on the outside then they are 10"

 

[facemaze]

Your best option, in my opinion, is to look up what axle ratio you have now and then buy the whole axle assembly from a wrecking yard

On back edge of drivers door is your build label
Under AXLE will be a 2 digit code, then look it up here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

You can use either a 7.5'' or 8.8" axle, they both bolt in the same way and use the same drive shaft

Upgrading to a L/S(limited slip) would be a nice upgrade, again no external changes needed OPEN or L/S just bolt in

Contrary to what's happened to yours, the 7.5" and 8.8" Ranger axles is a pretty safe buy used

car-part.com is a good place to search your area

Looking for "rear axle assy(RWD)"

1993 to 2009 7.5" or 8.8" rear axle assembly from a Ranger or Mazda B-series, will work your 2001 Ranger
Obviously, later years should have lower miles on them
You can use 9" or 10" brakes
Look at your rear brake drums, if you see fins then they are 9", if the drums are smooth on the outside then they are 10"

its 7.5, 4:10, 10" brakes.

Are you saying any 4:10 with 10" Drums will do?

 

[Roert42]

If everything else looked in good shape, I would clean the whole thing out real good, and replace the spider gears.