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Driveshaft Phase?


Do you have a dial indicator that you could mount somewhere and check to see if the driveshaft is even straight? I'd expect yokes to be out of phase on my own work. That's awful sloppy for a shop to produce something like that and charge you for it. I would have them fix that.

Any slop in the slip yoke? I've had some that were pretty sloppy that would vibrate on acceleration or deceleration.

How's your 205 attached to the frame?

My junk has so many vibrations and noises these days that I kinda stopped trying to fix them.

The bushing is a poly mount for this from Bronco Graveyard. I tried to find a rubber one but couldn't turn one up. Top plate is a factory part, the frame bracket is a piece of angle iron. It has a fixed yoke on the trans, I can't get any movement out of the driveshaft slip.



It wouldn't be such a big deal but it would be fun to wind it out once in awhile, I didn't V8 swap a Ranger to shift at 3k RPM.

Didn't you go pro it before and see it wind up.... maybe try to go pro again.

I have been thinking about how to do it and how to actually get it to see something useful. I can see it wind up some but it kinda has to to a certain degree. Right now it is on jackstands as I redo the parking brake cables and install the rear sway bar.

I wish I would have gopro'ed it with the whooped '09 springs with the blocks for comparison sake... but the vibration is the same with both.

You might need something like this... maybe you do already if that is the case maybe those joints are defective.

View attachment 46102

I don't have anything like that.

The engine is nothing that exotic, it is just a stock old half wore out Crown Vic 302 with an HO cam and E7 heads. The engine the rear springs had from the factory would have had more power.

Do they use a damper like the R1 on the 2.3 drive shafts?

Never heard of one. The driveshaft is out of a 1999ish Ranger.
 
Can't imagine that mount would transmit much vibration through the frame, that's pretty similar to the full size truck factory 205 mount.

Have you tried putting the rear on jackstands and having someone watch things while you "drive" it? Wouldn't be any real load on anything but maybe it would be visible.
 
Can't imagine that mount would transmit much vibration through the frame, that's pretty similar to the full size truck factory 205 mount.

Have you tried putting the rear on jackstands and having someone watch things while you "drive" it? Wouldn't be any real load on anything but maybe it would be visible.

I have never really been around a t-case with a mount. It pretty much locks the powertrain to the frame. If I rev the engine the engine doesn't move, the truck moves. I noticed right away I feel more engine vibration than I did with my 1350 that wasn't mounted to the frame.

I did this with my gopro, if you watch the driverside fender when it starts to shake in 2nd and 3rd (it is the camera shaking not the fender), that is when I get my vibration. There isn't much change in the suspension when it does it.

 
Yeah... more just curious if you could get an eyeball on the driveshaft, t-case output, pinion, etc...

I used a round poly bushing and some shock tabs to build my 205 frame mount. The bolts that connects the two goes through opposite yours, parallel to the frame. I feel like it would allow for even less movement than yours does, I sure feel all kinds of stuff, especially with my new 205 vs the old one. The old leaky bastard was much quieter although getting stuck in gear was not good.

Seen some weird stuff, one car that went through my old shop had a mild vibration at times that ended up being a bad Detroit locker.
 
I can mount the camera anywhere I can get a 1/4” bolt... but the truck is down for a bit.
 
The bushing is a poly mount for this from Bronco Graveyard. I tried to find a rubber one but couldn't turn one up. Top plate is a factory part, the frame bracket is a piece of angle iron. It has a fixed yoke on the trans, I can't get any movement out of the driveshaft slip.



It wouldn't be such a big deal but it would be fun to wind it out once in awhile, I didn't V8 swap a Ranger to shift at 3k RPM.



I have been thinking about how to do it and how to actually get it to see something useful. I can see it wind up some but it kinda has to to a certain degree. Right now it is on jackstands as I redo the parking brake cables and install the rear sway bar.

I wish I would have gopro'ed it with the whooped '09 springs with the blocks for comparison sake... but the vibration is the same with both.



I don't have anything like that.

The engine is nothing that exotic, it is just a stock old half wore out Crown Vic 302 with an HO cam and E7 heads. The engine the rear springs had from the factory would have had more power.



Never heard of one. The driveshaft is out of a 1999ish Ranger.
That engine in the truck it was in was a 360 with a mild cam and 4 brrl but if you have a decent size lift like that 78 powerwagon 8 inch suspension lift, 3 inch body lift on some swamper. Its possible its kicking out. My money is on axle wrap... but I could be wrong as gump said put the go pro under there and strap a gauge to the pinion see what the flex is.
 
That engine in the truck it was in was a 360 with a mild cam and 4 brrl but if you have a decent size lift like that 78 powerwagon 8 inch suspension lift, 3 inch body lift on some swamper. Its possible its kicking out. My money is on axle wrap... but I could be wrong as gump said put the go pro under there and strap a gauge to the pinion see what the flex is.

3” bodylift on 31’s with a factory 1989 Mustang HO cam. Guessing 200hp, significantly less at half throttle when I start getting vibes.
 
3” bodylift on 31’s with a factory 1989 Mustang HO cam. Guessing 200hp, significantly less at half throttle when I start getting vibes.

Put the camera on this angle..... I know I know.... stock 5.0 but you will be surprised what those tires are gonna do.



So out of curiosity.... you just changed transmissions you said? What trans was in there before? Was the 5.0 in there for a while?
 

Put the camera on this angle..... I know I know.... stock 5.0 but you will be surprised what those tires are gonna do.



So out of curiosity.... you just changed transmissions you said? What trans was in there before? Was the 5.0 in there for a while?

302 has been in since 2011. Had a C5 prior.

looking at my exhaust from a different angle tonight and I really wonder about it. The crossover was changed when I had the trans out.
 
4x4 M5OD's don't have a damper on the driveshaft like the 4x2 do

My single traction bar does wonders, but I have very little road miles on it, I need to get the parking brake unlocked and drive it more to get more of a feel for it but the shop project has taken all of my time lately, my '90 has been sitting in the driveway for a couple months with the rear end almost locked up (parking brake pedal is on the floor, but brakes aren't that tight, but the pedal is stuck at the floor...), I've moved it around a little with a jack under the rear pumpkin...

If you have some time and a welder, what I did was reasonable, I have about $100 in it...
 
4x4 M5OD's don't have a damper on the driveshaft like the 4x2 do

My single traction bar does wonders, but I have very little road miles on it, I need to get the parking brake unlocked and drive it more to get more of a feel for it but the shop project has taken all of my time lately, my '90 has been sitting in the driveway for a couple months with the rear end almost locked up (parking brake pedal is on the floor, but brakes aren't that tight, but the pedal is stuck at the floor...), I've moved it around a little with a jack under the rear pumpkin...

If you have some time and a welder, what I did was reasonable, I have about $100 in it...

I see duff has one for about $150 that might be worth a whirl.

Big push now is the roundup, since it doesn’t sound like the driveshaft will hurt anything I am a little more at ease.
 
I don't know if I would bother with their "classic traction bar", yes it's similar to what the V8 Explorers have but they're spring under which make that work. Sure it will do something but I'm not sure how much... what I built for $100 was like their $360 Torque Tamer... I pondered all sorts of stuff, even have a pair of V8 explorer bars on hand because I was going to use them but got convinced to go the other route...
 
I don't know if I would bother with their "classic traction bar", yes it's similar to what the V8 Explorers have but they're spring under which make that work. Sure it will do something but I'm not sure how much... what I built for $100 was like their $360 Torque Tamer... I pondered all sorts of stuff, even have a pair of V8 explorer bars on hand because I was going to use them but got convinced to go the other route...
5.0 exploders have that 5th shock for a damper.
 
I'm not an expert nor have the experience that some of the others have but for what it is worth, If the axle wrap has been taken care of by your swap of the springs, U-joints are good then your vibration would seem to be coming from before the driveshaft. Trans or transfer case is what I am referring to.

Improperly clocked drive shaft should give a vibration constantly and not just under power increasing as its speed increases. It causes it to be out of balance and causes a vibration similar to a tire out of balance, increasing vibration the faster it spins.
As Ramcharger90 mentioned get a view of the axle from the side to see how much axle wrap is happening under loaded acceleration. This will let you know if the springs are doing what you had hoped they would and limiting the wrap.
If the wrap is under control then I would start looking further up the line for the cause starting with the transfer case, but again I'm no expert.
 
If the wrap is under control then I would start looking further up the line for the cause starting with the transfer case, but again I'm no expert.

I threw a new output shaft bearing at it right before the roundup last year to no effect. 🤷‍♂️
 

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