94 Exp Custom Radius Arm Build

[Syko]

Another custom long arm build hah..

I got a little ahead of you guys so ill catch you up.

My plan is to swap the entire TTB axle in with extended arms, Ill be swapping over the knuckles over because they have new ball joints in them. Also using the stock radius arm mounts mounted back on the frame and moved back 12 inchs the length I extended the Radius arms.

This give me little down time as its my DD and gives me plenty of time to build it up. Ill be replacing the I Beam bushings, radius arm bushings, and wheel bearings, cutting out the port for the axle, and adding a c clip eliminator.

The Exploder.

1994 Sport 2dr 5speed, 3.73 gears, posi rear, open front, 5.5 inch superlift

Basically the 5.5 Superlift with stock radius arms is a pain in the ass. You can never get the proper caster and bushings never last.

The Donor. 3.73 Dana 35, complete besides wheel bearings. 50$

A little heat and to my surprise an electric impact gun made the tear down pretty easy.

clean up!

Paint.

Mock up. 2x2 .250 square tube cost me 65 bucks for 5 feet.

Welding!

Boxing in the radius arm

Im not a welder by any means but I think these will hold.

The perks of cutting with an angle grinder.. Setting yourself on fire!

I still need to open up the passenger side port for the axle shaft, c clip eliminator, paint the arms, and cleanup the pumpkin. Ive thought about painting it Orange but im kinda on the fence.

 

[AzLizard]

Ill be watching this one

What do you think about using 2in .250 wall DOM?

 

[Jim Oaks]

Damn, I've caught myself on fire with a welder, but never a grinder.

I'm interested to see how this all turns out.

 

[AzLizard]

Damn, I've caught myself on fire with a welder, but never a grinder.

I'm interested to see how this all turns out.

I have caught myself on fire both ways a couple times wearing ragged work clothes.

 

[Syko]

Ill be watching this one

What do you think about using 2in .250 wall DOM?

Would work, I feel the square tube is easier to weld into the radius arms and makes boxing it in easier. Although square is heavier and that means more money $$

 

[4x4junkie]

DOM tube is stronger & more rigid than HREW tube (what most box tubing is), and is usually more $$$ per foot. 2x2" .250" wall square should still be fine though.

A
Im not a welder by any means but I think these will hold.

I think you may need to have your welder cranked up a little higher.
Did you chamfer the edge of that plate where it meets alongside the radius arm before you welded?

.

 

[Syko]

DOM tube is stronger & more rigid than HREW tube (what most box tubing is), and is usually more $$$ per foot. 2x2" .250" wall square should still be fine though.




I think you may need to have your welder cranked up a little higher.
Did you chamfer the edge of that plate where it meets alongside the radius arm before you welded?

.

I stand corrected.

Any pointers would be appreciated. I didn't chamfer it, I did however grind it down to about a 16th gap each side.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah the width of your beads looks a little narrow, which usually indicates shallower penetration. Assuming you're still getting the hang of things, try turning up the heat or current until you get a bead that's about twice as wide as the metal you are welding is thick (in this case about 3/8" to 1/2").

You may possibly need to use a larger electrode or turn up the wire speed a bit also, not sure which type welder you're using.

Chamfering the edges gives you a V-channel where the parts meet that will provide far better weld penetration as you fill in that channel.

 

[Syko]

Yeah the width of your beads looks a little narrow, which usually indicates shallower penetration. Assuming you're still getting the hang of things, try turning up the heat or current until you get a bead that's about twice as wide as the metal you are welding is thick (in this case about 3/8" to 1/2").

You may possibly need to use a larger electrode or turn up the wire speed a bit also, not sure which type welder you're using.

Chamfering the edges gives you a V-channel where the parts meet that will provide far better weld penetration as you fill in that channel.

Thanks for the tips, I'm using a Miller Sidekick. I grinded down some of the welds and ran over them a second time.

 

[Syko]

Cleaned up the Pumpkin, I love the aluminum. Also got wheel bearings and a trans mount in the mail today.

For a c-clip eliminator, is the Echo spring the best solution?

 

[4x4junkie]

For a c-clip eliminator, is the Echo spring the best solution?

IMO, yes.
I've seen use of springs inside of the yoke, which more often that not results in the dust cap seal getting blown out due to it binding (there isn't enough room inside the yoke for the axle and the spring when the suspension goes to full droop).

There was an article here that showed a weld bead put onto a shaft to hold the spring... DO NOT DO THAT! Welding on the shaft can cause a stress riser to form, possibly leading to a future broken shaft.
Hose clamps tightened securely around the boot should work fine to hold the spring in place within the boot.

 

[Syko]

Well the long arms are in, took about a day and a half. I did a home alignment with strings and have been driving on them for a week now. I notice it really softened the front end up and I think it feels great, almost the way it should. My buddy is willing to lend me some RE1345 XJ 5.5 lift coils to see how they feel in there.

If I were to do it again, I'd build my own RA brackets with a trans cross member.

A little flex.

Ill post more pics once there isn't a foot of snow everyone lol..

 

[griz700rocket]

Nice to see someone keeping the TTB and making it work. I like how much better you can make a TTB ride on the road compared to a solid axle swap. Sure they are a pain to keep aligned and have a lot of parts that wear but when you get them set up right they are super smooth.

 

[4x4junkie]

Looks good.

Did you do anything with your steering? I see it's angle was way off in the first pic in your OP (at minimum it needs a larger drop pitman arm).

 

[Syko]

Looks good.

Did you do anything with your steering? I see it's angle was way off in the first pic in your OP (at minimum it needs a larger drop pitman arm).

Thanks. No I still have the pitman arm from the superlift on there. Ive looked into the SkyJacker fa600 but the way the CDN dollar is its going to cost me almost 300 + bucks.

Got an alignment today, Toe and caster are within spec but the best camber he could do is 0.8 degrees out. It drives straight and doesnt pull to the right anymore which is nice. Now Im really thinking of ditching the superlift coils for the softer XJ ones.