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bleeding master cylinder - soft clutch pedal


edward2016

Active Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Messages
31
City
Texas
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Manual
My credo
do what you do and do it well
earlier i tired bleeding the slave cylinder. did that correctly to find out i now have a very soft clutch. starts but wont go into gear. goes into gear fine with the truck off. i've tried to take apart this master cylinder mechanism inside the cab behind the pedal. something about getting the snap ring off the piston to relieve the air bubbles inside the master cylinder and it will then work. i just need help getting this snap ring off and if any body has any suggestion to a soft pedal fix
 
Here is the snapring
 

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When I had to bleed the 94 , I un-bolted the MC from the firewall and tilted it so the air would burp through the fill
 
When I had to bleed the 94 , I un-bolted the MC from the firewall and tilted it so the air would burp through the fill


appreciate the reply! but tilt which way?
 
appreciate the reply! but tilt which way?

so the lines sit higher then the push rod used to actuate it.

remove mc from firewall tilt line end upward toward the sky and actuate it by hand then reinstall and bleed slave..


note that bleeding the clutch master is a P.I.T.A. due to the design but once you follow the above process bleeding should only take about 5 min.
 
Last edited:
so the lines sit higher then the push rod used to actuate it.

remove mc from firewall tilt line end upward toward the sky and actuate it by hand then reinstall and bleed slave..


note that bleeding the clutch master is a P.I.T.A. due to the design but once you follow the above process bleeding should only take about 5 min.

sounds like a plan! but removing the mc is the only part im not understanding.. can you elaborate on removing it ??:icon_thumby:
 
sounds like a plan! but removing the mc is the only part im not understanding.. can you elaborate on removing it ??:icon_thumby:


under hood remove 2 bolts fastening it to the firewall. should be located below the brake booster and a little to the right. also you will have to release the rod from the pedal or the mc however the clips are very easy to break when removing especially as they age, so be careful.
 
Unhook it from the pedal arm. and unbolt it from the Firewall
 
so the lines sit higher then the push rod used to actuate it.

remove mc from firewall tilt line end upward toward the sky and actuate it by hand then reinstall and bleed slave..


note that bleeding the clutch master is a P.I.T.A. due to the design but once you follow the above process bleeding should only take about 5 min.

okay i got the mc out of the firewall now having a tough time trying to situate it facing the sky
 
okay i got the mc out of the firewall now having a tough time trying to situate it facing the sky

get assistant to push on rod and you hold it with lines higher then rod then once it is situated have assistant push on rod 2 to 3 times air will go up toward the resivior..


then reinstall and bleed slave while keeping resivior full of fluid.
 
If all that fails, I've had good luck just pushing the pedal to the floor then slipping my foot off the pedal a handful of times... the explorer I had had a leaky slave and kept running out of fluid so I got used to that technique :)
 
UPDATE
just pulled the whole assembly out. pretty simple. i couldnt get the master cylinder situated right where the actuator whould push the air out just like ya'll were trying to describe. i hung it up vertically outside on a nail and pulled the piston out, made sure it was filled up, re installed the piston(actuator) and viola it works. but thanks to my buddy i wouldnt have been able to do it. thank all of yall
 

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