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Is there a list of "Might as well" parts when clutch is replaced?


96firephoenix

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2014
Messages
193
City
Indianapolis, IN
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
I couldn't find one of these lists, but I was wondering if there was a list of things that you "might as well" replace when you've got the trans out to replace the clutch.

Obviously the slave cylinder and pilot bushing/bearing, but at 215K, I'm thinking that I'll need a new flywheel and/or flywheel shims.

Rear main seal as well?

Anything else while I'm in there? I'm gonna use the access to clean rust and apply paint to what I can...
 
I wouldn't shim a flywheel since the starter still has to catch it.
 
Really no reason to replace the flywheel unless the clutch has been slipping, even then you can have it turned. I pulled an engine out of an '84 Turbo Coupe with 145K on it where the clutch had slipped so much it had blued the surface of the flywheel, but I had it turned and it was good.
 
Unless the flywheel has been turned before, in which case it might be too thin.
 
Rear main seal and pilot bearing would be the extras I would change.
 
Rear main seal and pilot bearing would be the extras I would change.
Pilot bearing is in the kits from RockAuto, so I assumed it was a given. Especially if it's a bearing, not a bushing
Really no reason to replace the flywheel unless the clutch has been slipping, even then you can have it turned. I pulled an engine out of an '84 Turbo Coupe with 145K on it where the clutch had slipped so much it had blued the surface of the flywheel, but I had it turned and it was good.
I have this feeling that the clutch disc is worn down to where the pressure plate and the flywheel are both grabbing rivets. That would be the reason to replace the flywheel, IMO.
I wouldn't shim a flywheel since the starter still has to catch it.
If I replace the flywheel due to rivet gouges, I would need new shims though, right?
 
What shims?

Never seen one on a flywheel... Granted I've only seen 2 but still.
 
What shims?

Never seen one on a flywheel... Granted I've only seen 2 but still.

I once purchased a replacement flywheel for my '93 four banger. I could not get the clutch adjusted/bled to the point that it would grab very well. It turns out it was a "reconditioned" flywheel. In otherwords, it was a used unit that was turned too many times. I had to purchase shims to get the clutch to fully engage.
The lesson that I learned: make sure to get a NEW flywheel if you need one.
 
Crap, is this shim thing a possible reason why I couldn't keep a starter in my 84 B2? I sure hope not.
 
When I did the clutch on my '94, besides the friction disc, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing, I also did the rear main engine seal and the front trans input seal.

Seals are things that you do NOT want to have to take the tranny off again to do, sometime in the not-so-distant-future.
 
When I did the clutch on my '94, besides the friction disc, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing, I also did the rear main engine seal and the front trans input seal.

Seals are things that you do NOT want to have to take the tranny off again to do, sometime in the not-so-distant-future.

trans input seal is not one that I would have thought of on my own, thank you!
 
I'm replacing my tranny in a 97 extra cab 3.0... it whines a hell of a lot in 3rd and 5th... found a tranny out of a 94 4.0 the guy says was good and stored covered when he took it out last year... I'm thinking like you... what should I replace NOW??? my truck has 170K and engine seems sound... had it for 35K of which my gf learned to drive a stick... now the pedal engages barely off the floor. I may just inspect the clutch/pressure plate but figue on replacing throw out and pilot... hadn't thought of the rear main OR the front tranny seal... Any suggestions from anyone else on my issues, ESPECIALLY the tranny I've currently got and that whine, which I hear can be catastrophic???
 
First off can't use a 4.0 tranny different bell housing, and they are integrated into the housing.

-obviously clutch
-flywheel-a must don't go cheap either I did once and the ring gear slipped, causing me to pull the tranny since the starter was basically engaging nothing
-slave cylinder/throw out, get a good one these are a weak point and are inside the bellhousing, a leaky Slave means your pulling the tranny
-new oem flywheel bolts, if you decide not to (I advise against it) make sure to use loctite and clean the threads up good before hand
-rear main seal, get a fel pro with a speed sleeve (think that's what it's called) it has a sleeve that goes over the snout of the crankshaft and renews the surface the seal rides on, use motor oil to lube the part that rides on the crank and I like to use rtv on the part that goes around the motor/oil pan
-inspect the new trannies seals (may need to replace some of those) make sure the shifter bushings are good (minimal play in shifter)


Think I got everything covered...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Don't forget to check the shift rail plugs for leakage. I also added a vent line to prevent oil from blowing by the shifter.
 

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