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77 f150 no power need help


00srad600

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Messages
109
City
Scenery hill pa
Vehicle Year
1992 1989
Transmission
Manual
Ok so i bought a 77 ford f150 custom 351 mod 3 speed auto. When i bought the truck i drove it home and parked it. Been sitting 3 months go to start it yeasterday nothing no power to anything. No headlights no radio nothing all the glass fuses seem to be fine. The one thing is my buddy did hook his up backwards when we tried jumping it. I know nothing of this old truck Im a 88 to 92 ranger guy. I is there any other fuses other then the ones in the cab on the driver side. im so lost with this truck the big reason i got it is a big block for my ranger.
 
Start with the obvious, have the battery tested to see if it has a bad cell or is just toast. From there, double-check all the connections, it should be obvious if something isn't connected.
Lastly, a lot of older vehicles had had external volt regulators mounted (little black or silver box with one plug) on the inner fender or possibly the core support that could have been fried when jumper cables were hooked up backwards. When they go out they will cause a constant draw on the battery and kill it.
 
batter is new i dont see anything thats not connected i try just giving juice to the starter no go. it just sparked
 
For the record the 351M is a smallblock... that will get its tail kicked by just about any other smallblock of remotely close displacement.
 
I would check the batteries Ground cable, on the battery and where it attaches to the block.

Pretty much all 12volts comes from Starter Relay on fender, where battery + connects there should be several other wires on that post, that's where the Alternator hooks up and where the fuse panel hooks up.
There may also be a couple of "Fusible links" there, this is a short wire hooked to another wire, the short wire is meant to burn out if there is a short, fusible links are used instead of fuses because they won't burn out quickly like a fuse will.

But none of that works without a Ground
 
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ground cable is good and if the 351m isnt a big block why is it that 289 302 351w and the 351c all have the same bellhousing pattern but the 351m 429 and 460 have the same pattern then there for i can bolt a zf6 a 6 speed transmission thats why i bought a truck with the 351 mod
 
ground cable is good and if the 351m isnt a big block why is it that 289 302 351w and the 351c all have the same bellhousing pattern but the 351m 429 and 460 have the same pattern then there for i can bolt a zf6 a 6 speed transmission thats why i bought a truck with the 351 mod

Because the 351M and 400 are just a 351C with a taller deck. Bore spacing decides big block, not bellhousing. And they have the same exact bore spacing as a 260, 289, 302, 351W, 351C...

And BTW a few 351M/400 blocks were made with the small block bolt pattern for cars as well. For the work involved to fit it you are getting a really weak 351w for the work of putting a 460.

They put the ZF behind a 351W if you want one with the small block pattern.
 
Well then i guess ill just call it a mock up for the 460 then and i got the truck for 400 bucks also with the ttb dana 44 which im sending out for a nice cut and turn then . i find with full hydro and a 3 or 4 inch body lift you can stuff so much more under the hood on rvb thanks for the jack but where should i start checking to get power to this truck.
 
Well then i guess ill just call it a mock up for the 460 then and i got the truck for 400 bucks also with the ttb dana 44 which im sending out for a nice cut and turn then . i find with full hydro and a 3 or 4 inch body lift you can stuff so much more under the hood on rvb thanks for the jack but where should i start checking to get power to this truck.

Did you figure out why it won't start?:icon_confused:
 
nope still ****ing with it still lost how could i test the ignition mod

My 77 and 78 had a square[ for lack of a better word] electronic module about 4x4" 11/2" thick screwed to the driver side fire wall or screwed to the side of the engine compartment below the spring/hinge assembly on the driver side .They made two types of the gizmos . the wire connections if I remember right were BLUE or BLACK on the module itself. When they DIE the little bit of electronics in those year trucks were DEAD therefore you get nothing. And you cannot test them, you need to another. They don't fail often but they do, you can get one at the JY and chances are it will work. Just remember the one that in your truck is either BLUE/BLACK , I never did find out why they are different they just are , you have to have the same color connector! I always carried an extra under the seat cause you ain't going anywhere w/o one.
Good luck
 
Did you get the beast running? Find the problem?:popcorn:
 

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