Steering box to use on a d44 swap?

[cp2295]

What to use on a 99 ranger with a 4.0 ohv? Can I just use a 97 and older steering box? Also what parts am I missing from this list?

-D44 from a 78/79 bronco and ford 9".
-Coil buckets and leaf perches from both axles
-Steering box and lines (May need fabricated lines if I can't use the rangers box)
-Lengthen front driveline? Also will I need to remove that dumb cv type connection off the driveline and put in a different carrier on the t case (a ujoint style)? Or can I take the broncos front driveline and use it?
-coils and leafs from the bronco or should I use my rangers leafs and buy some different coils? Any recommendations on coils?
-what shocks should I use?
-will I need to modify the rear carrier to accept my rear driveshaft?
-37x12.5x15 and recommendations on tire?

I want to get my ranger to clear 37s with relative ease, but not much, so would 6" or 8" of lift off stock height where it sits right now clear those tires pretty good?

I can get a complete front axle for $175 including the knuckles and without the hubs and brakes which I don't care about, would want new ones anyways.

The rear I can get for $85 complete minus brakes again.. So this swap is looking pretty affordable (minus the tires!)

So if anybody's done the swap let me know what I'm missing, I've looked at quite a few forums and I got the jist of it all but still a little unclear about everything that I'll need.

Another thing that's making me want to do this swap is the cv joint is starting to click on the driver side so it's time!!

 

[RangerSVT]

The best box to use, and most popular, is either a toyota ifs box or a 78-79 ford F150 box. 3.5" early bronco springs or 6" XJ springs up front, ranger 6" leafs out back, or chevy 63" plus the 6400 shackles...

SVT

 

[cp2295]

Okay so any Toyota box when they started doing ifs? And with ranger 6" leafs that'll put me at 6" of lift? I'm not the greatest at knowing axle components and names and all that but I know I can do the job! Just gotta know all the parts to get is all

Also with that Toyota box would I just take it's lines and connect the ends going into the box using the Toyotas plug ins and then couple those two lines with the rangers lines so it'll go into the ps pump? Sound like what people usually do with that?

 

[RangerSVT]

Yep, you got it. I havent SAS' d my sport trac yet, so im not sure if the yota box's fittings are the same as the ranger box or not, a quick search for yota ps lines will tell you, but they should be inverted flare fittings (like brake line fittings)

SVT

 

[cp2295]

Okay well thanks for the info man and good luck on the swap when you get to it!

 

[cp2295]

You know anything about the driveshaft scenario?

 

[RangerSVT]

That all depends on which tcase you use, and how far you push your axle. Its one of those things uou will have to measure once everything else is done...

SVT

 

[cp2295]

Okay I'll just run into the issues and fix them when they happen.. That's usually the way it always happens anyway. Thanks for the info

 

[AgPete139]

What are you doing for assignment? Radius seems, panhard, draglink and tie rod? Are you fabbing your own?

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[Scrambler82]

The best box to use, and most popular, is either a toyota ifs box or a 78-79 ford F150 box. 3.5" early bronco springs or 6" XJ springs up front, ranger 6" leafs out back, or chevy 63" plus the 6400 shackles...

Yep, you got it. I havent SAS' d my sport trac yet, so im not sure if the yota box's fittings are the same as the ranger box or not, a quick search for yota ps lines will tell you, but they should be inverted flare fittings (like brake line fittings)

SVT

Good Info…

Now how did the Yota Box mount up ?

Any special rework on the frame ?

Thanks for this info, I am thinking on it !

 

[cp2295]

What are you doing for assignment? Radius seems, panhard, draglink and tie rod? Are you fabbing your own?

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I don't know what I'm doing with that stuff I figured I could just use it off the bronco I find.. What do you reccomend?

 

[AgPete139]

*Whoops...
"ASSIGNEMENT" was supposed to read "ALIGNMENT."
"SEEMS" ==> "ARMS." (Typed it from my phone.)

First off, you cannot use 'everything' off of the front end. Some stuff just wont simply bolt up and "fit."

Secondly, here's a good source of information:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/solid_axle_swap.shtml

Now, the distance between your drive frame rail and passenger knuckle is a shorter distance than on the FSB. The panhard/track/trac bar prevents the front axle form sliding out sideways from underneath your truck. The bracket on the frame, the rod itself, the end links need to be custom to your application. PartsMike.com is a supposed to be a good place to source that (so I've read). That's my plan anyways.
http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?crn=240

There are companies that sell pre-fabbed panhard brackets that you can bolt to the outside of your driver's side frame rail as well if you aren't a welder.

You could take your own measurements and cut your own DOM tubing and get beefy tie-rod or sockets or whatnot for steering, or you could source these parts.

The FSB radius arms and brackets are good and provide 4 degrees of caster. You may need to fit or make another x-member to support your transmission. I'm not sure if this is the case with your 98+ truck.

The same thing goes for the tie rod and connecting the driver & passenger knuckles. Your own custom length is needed, depending if you keep it FW or shorten it. Some people have used Chevy bits, and have reamed out their own balljoint sockets.

Also, something to consider: the coil buckets. You need to bend the outer tabs downward to squeese the EB coils in. Don't bend the innermost one, since the curved one keeps it seated to the inside of the bucket. You could alos go custom buckets, depending on your budget. Some people get F-250 shock mounts and use those to get more wheel travel, since the taller shock also sits higher in the engine bay.

1998+ Ranger frames are overall ~3" wider than 1997- frames. The stock D44 coil spring bracket/base plate is 2" wider on the on the FSB than the 1997- frames. So, really IIRC, the difference is only 0.5" per side than the original Bronco frame configuration. You might not have to readjust the coil spring bracket base/pads at all.

 

[cp2295]

Nice thanks for the info, only thing I'm curious about is why I'd need to do any work all the way back at the tranny xmember? Its already got one and everything.. Don't the radius arms bolt on the outside of the frame anyways?

 

[AgPete139]

On 97- TTB frames at least, the crossmember shares some of the same mounting holes as the radius arm brackets. Its a good point to align both sides evenly on the frame using bolts. How can you put the crossmember back if they're are bolt studs preventing reinstallation?

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[AgPete139]

There*

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