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what's every body run for on board air?


swynx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,401
Age
33
City
lewiston idaho
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Friend keeps talking about York. Looked up the York 210. I read thetech section article. Looked at the oasis just outright expensive. Original plan was just to use the a/c compressor. But I want to retain my a/c. Maybe add another pump? Why can't you have an a/c that both runs aair and a/c?

We have a pump we got from oreillys, but it takes a long time to air up even a 31 let alone a 35.

I'm very ill informed on this subject. Seems like there are alot of ways. There's gotta be a way with a decent price that works well?
 
yorks are great.



i would likely go with something from a r12 era ranger or crown vic. they are not yorks but are easy to fit still.


the early rotary 6 cyl pumps work great with minimal oiling and free air about 100 psi on a 1/4 in fitting at 3-3500 rpm with stock pulley ratios. the later rotary 10 cyl pumps usually lock up as the swash feet are made of a different material. so adapting the early rotary is pretty easy, fitting a belt etc with it being a secondary pump may prove to be a pia, but there are all sorts of pullies out there to evun add a v belt to the crank pulley etc.


skys the limit on how you line it out.
 
Why can't you have an a/c that both runs aair and a/c?

How are you going to keep the two systems seperate so that you aren't either running both every time you run one or not pump all your refrigerant into your air tank?
 
I have onboard air on my Ranger using a york and 2 five gallon tanks. The tanks are mounted in the bed and are connected with 3/8 brakeline. The top of each tank has the quick coupling and the bottoms have drains. The tanks are fed with a 3/8 hose from a manifold under the hood. The manifold has the air inlet with check valve, a cut-off switch that turns off at 175, a 200psi pop-off valve, another quick coupling, a line that supplies a gage inside the truck and the outlet to the tanks in the bed. The compressor has a mount that I built to go in place of the original A/C Compressor. I did use the original A/C Compressor until I locked up two of them cause there is no way to properly keep them oiled.
 
I have onboard air on my Ranger using a york and 2 five gallon tanks. The tanks are mounted in the bed and are connected with 3/8 brakeline. The top of each tank has the quick coupling and the bottoms have drains. The tanks are fed with a 3/8 hose from a manifold under the hood. The manifold has the air inlet with check valve, a cut-off switch that turns off at 175, a 200psi pop-off valve, another quick coupling, a line that supplies a gage inside the truck and the outlet to the tanks in the bed. The compressor has a mount that I built to go in place of the original A/C Compressor. I did use the original A/C Compressor until I locked up two of them cause there is no way to properly keep them oiled.

i assume you were using the stock type 4.0 pump? those definitely dont work long.

the early pumps work really well though. the dealer air pumps for the mustangs were the best.
 
I plan on using an a/c compressor, since my truck never had a/c to begin with. I plan on mounting the air tank under the bed, plenty of space under there.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Yeah I want to retain my a/c as some of the trails are slow going and no air flow on the 100 degree days.

Where do you get the rotary 6 cyl pump?

So what is the simplest solution. Aside from buying an expensive plug in pump?
 
Friend keeps talking about York. Looked up the York 210. I read thetech section article. Looked at the oasis just outright expensive. Original plan was just to use the a/c compressor. But I want to retain my a/c. Maybe add another pump? Why can't you have an a/c that both runs aair and a/c?

We have a pump we got from oreillys, but it takes a long time to air up even a 31 let alone a 35.

I'm very ill informed on this subject. Seems like there are alot of ways. There's gotta be a way with a decent price that works well?
Yorks are great for air pumps because they were built with an oil sump which supplied most of the oil required to keep the pump working fine. Some other older pumps also had oil sumps to a greater or lesser degree and could handle being used as an air pump. The newer A/C compressors get the majority of their lubrication from oil mixed in with the refrigerant. Naturally, if you're using it as an air compressor instead of a refrigerant compressor, there is no oil being circulated and the pump dies a screaming death.

One pump cannot be used for both systems at the same time because there is no way to separate things. It's not like a hydraulic pump where you can just manifold off and have the pump drive multiple things at the same time.

Most people toss the A/C and mount the pump there for OBA because it's simple to do. Otherwise you have to try to find a place to mount the pump, build a bracket and get a belt to it somehow. I've wanted to have OBA for awhile but never really wanted to toss my A/C to get it. This summer I re-visited the idea and came up with a solution. My F-150 (which is my work truck and for now my tow rig) I have a place where I can mount the pump other than where my A/C compressor currently sits. So I'll rig up OBA on my F-150 and that way all I have to do is get my trail rig within range of the F-150 and I have air. Plus I'll be able to run an air horn on the F-150 because the little electronic thing under the hood just is not convincing enough for some people around here....
 
I am going to use an electric pump on my BII, with a tank. I am building a bumper that has the tank integrated into it. the pump I have is a typical low volume pump for air bags on a pickup or rv. it makes plenty of pressure, is just slow. the volume will come from the tank
 
I have ARB's compressor on mine... It airs up one of my 35s from 12 PSI to 35PSI in about 4 minutes. Certainly not as fast as a York, but it's decent enough.
(ARB redesigned the unit maybe 3-4 years ago, it's about twice as fast as the unit before it).

It does get a little warm after 10 minutes or so of running though, best to find a spot where air coming from the engine fan hits it directly (or do like I do and put a 12v fan (like a hi-power computer case fan) up against it when it's running).
 
I have a slime brand hd(but only one piston) pump that just plugs into the cig lighter. Its not very fast, but personally, when I get off a trail I have to reconnect my sway bar, then I always like to give the rig a good look over before I get on the road home. That gives me plenty of time for the tires to air back up while I check my BII's "vitals."
 
I use a 5lb CO2 bottle system. Easy to carry and always works and FAST! They come in larger sizes like 10 and 20lb too.
 
A friend of mine did the homebrew co2 tank also. It has enough volume to run air tools and fill up tires. It's portable and small enough to fit almost anywhere. The only issue is when it's used for extended periods of time it will freeze. Some expensive kits have an intercooler style great exchange to prevent freezing. However they are pricey and it's very simple to make a homebrew connection for an off the shelf co2 can for under $150. Filling them only costs a few bucks also.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk
 
so, if you are "stuck" having to use a "rotary" compressor, then, you should be looking for the one off of the early RBV's with "V-belts" correct? 2.8, 2.9 V6 for starters?
 

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