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good deal easy fix or bad idea


00RangerShavedAndDropped

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2009
Messages
87
City
Palm Coast, Fl
Vehicle Year
2011
Transmission
Automatic
hey everyone i just got what i thought was one hell of a deal on another ranger. its a 2000 xlt 3.0 4x4 auto all power extended cab with 97,xxx miles a 3" body lift and 35 tires 2 are new paid $1300 now the bad lol.
was told it has a blown head gasket i drove it home about 20 miles with no overheating or anything i checked the oil after i got home and didnt seem milky although the guy just changed it. he said the leak was very small i didnt know if i could try a head gasket leak fix in a bottle or something any luck anyone? second is where the front bumper mounts to frame and the tow hooks are the piece thast weldded to the frame is snapped at at welds on the bottom. it needs a new tailgate due to ruse and rear bumper is solid steel and rusted. back window slider has been broken and plexi has been caulked in place interior is nice though. so whats everyone think. thanks for taking the time to read this
 
It sounds like a good deal. Even though I've used "solution in a bottle," I would recommend find the problem and replacing it. Head gaskets are a big deal, and could mean more trouble later.
 
I have used the Rislone brand, no complaints.
But this type of "patch" is just to get you by until you can remove the heads and replace the gaskets, so not a "fix" it is a "patch".
So if you have the time now I would just fix it.

And I would give it a closer look, glove test or block test.
Might be another issue.
Engine cold, remove rad cap and start the engine.
Watch coolant in rad for bubbles, let it run for 10 minutes, if it starts to boil over I would do a glove test or block test.


yes, good find
 
For $1300 sounds like a decent find

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
The problem with using any stop-leak products is that they may fix your problem, but they can block oil passages and stuff too. If you can avoid it, I wouldn't use anything, because when you DO get around to doing the head gasket properly you'll have to clean up the mess caused by stop-leak.
 
alright i just got the block test to make sure its def head gasket if it is looks like im just gunna do it. anyone know how hard it is. im pretty good with cars repair them all the time just never dove into a head gasket before. and what about the frame damage i described earlier is that going to be a big problem later? thanks again yall are a big help glad i didnt get the fix in a bottle already
 
Head gasket repair is just wrench work, nothing special about it, just takes time.
Take lots of pictures so you know where each wire goes and what part goes where, digital pictures are FREE, so take loads of photos.

Head bolts on the newer engines are "stretch bolts", so once used they should not be reused, so get new head bolts.
Head bolts require a specific pattern when tightening, most are from the center out but all have a specific pattern, info is here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.html

You should also have the heads cleaned and pressure tested, surface milled and new valve guide seals installed, this is usually $75 a head, call a few machine shops prices vary.
The reason for the pressure test is that you could have a cracked head, not a blown head gasket, and it would be a shame to waste all the time redoing the head gaskets and wind up in the same spot.

One thing I do when doing a head gasket on a running engine, I have a local muffler shop that will remove the exhaust manifold bolts and header nuts then re-install them, replacing any that break or strip.
Usually runs anywhere from $50-$100, but IMO it is money well spent since I would have to spend most of a day getting out a broken bolt plus any new tools and bolts needed.
Muffler guys do this daily so are quick and IMO cheap for what it saves me in time.
Imagine just removing an exhaust manifold, all the bolts just come out nice and easy, lol, when was the last time that happened on a 10+ year old engine.
If I had a shop with a torch and welder then maybe I wouldn't do that, but I don't so.........
 
Last edited:
I have a local muffler shop that will remove the exhaust manifold bolts and header nuts then re-install them, replacing any that break or strip.
Usually runs anywhere from $50-$100...

Smart ...and yes, money well spent indeed!! I don't have a reliable shop around here close however...be thankful for having that resource available to you.
 
yeah a good shop will be impossible to find around here. ill prob spray them with pb blaster for a couple days. good thing is i just bought this to play and sell it. other ranger is for dd lol. other thing i noticed is when i hit the gas from a stop there is a hesitation and kind of a jerk forward when starting like its delayed does this sound like more headaches to anyone never had a 4wd ranger so idk what to expect. also it has 35's on it is that to big for the stock drivetrain to push thanks again guys
 

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