Need to rebuild my 2.3

[Mr.Hotrod]

What are some good vendors that sell rebuild kits online for cheap? I don't know if i can get a kit for under $800 but it would be nice, i don't think i even need the complete rebuild kit, my piston rings went out because i have serious blow by (Smoke pouring out of the intake) and it shakes like a seizure. Suggestions?

 

[Mr.Hotrod]

What are some good vendors that sell rebuild kits online for cheap? I don't know if i can get a kit for under $800 but it would be nice, i don't think i even need the complete rebuild kit, my piston rings went out because i have serious blow by (Smoke pouring out of the intake) and it shakes like a seizure. Suggestions?

Also, what performance parts can i get that is decently cheap? I want to get a performance cam that i can run on stock compression if there is any, maybe a better flowing exhaust manifold and a better head. Suggestions? I am aiming for maybe 130 hp

 

[RonD]

Valves on those engine can get hot and "tulip" so you may need some valves
4 valves run about $70

Rebuild kit with rings, bearings, timing belt/chain and gaskets should be about $300-$400

I would have the head done at a machine shop, cleaned, tested and surfaced, $100??


Look here and at the bottom of the page for ideas on upgrades
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html

Removing the fan clutch and using an electric cooling fan is a simple way to free up horse power

 

[scotts90ranger]

if you get your parts from rockauto.com it's fairly cheap, I think I was into parts about $300, my turbo engine just needed the valves ground not replaced, and I'm betting my combustion temp has been up there a few times , but the turbo heads might have harder valves...

Head work on the other hand, it was $35 to surface my head (was warped), $20 to install the cam bearings I supplied, all in all it cost me $165 out the door at the machine shop and I ground my valves at work...

If you're looking for power, port the head and intake, those are the biggest restrictions, here's a pic of a stock intake port:

I don't have a pic of how the intake ports looked when I was done, it got dark while I was grinding, then apparently got distracted... both sides could use work, but the intake is the ugliest and notoriously has the best return on these engines.

 

[Mr.Hotrod]

if you get your parts from rockauto.com it's fairly cheap, I think I was into parts about $300, my turbo engine just needed the valves ground not replaced, and I'm betting my combustion temp has been up there a few times , but the turbo heads might have harder valves...

Head work on the other hand, it was $35 to surface my head (was warped), $20 to install the cam bearings I supplied, all in all it cost me $165 out the door at the machine shop and I ground my valves at work...

If you're looking for power, port the head and intake, those are the biggest restrictions, here's a pic of a stock intake port:

I don't have a pic of how the intake ports looked when I was done, it got dark while I was grinding, then apparently got distracted... both sides could use work, but the intake is the ugliest and notoriously has the best return on these engines.

so would bad valve cause oil to get into my intake because of blow by right? I'll pull my head off and see what it looks like, and i'll probably get my head done if thats the problem, and ported and polished and all the good stuff. I also just check my PCV valve and it was unplugged... And when i tried to plug it back in, the hose was too short and it came off and its almost impossible to plug back because its in such a tight spot

 

[scotts90ranger]

valves don't cause blowby, bad rings do, bad valve stem seals will cause oil consumption, usually an oil cloud on startup after sitting for a while and a little bit of smoke when sitting idling.