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Daily driver is down help please


cbsremix

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2008
Messages
106
City
South Lake Tahoe Ca
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
1996 3.0L so today I driving down the street as I shifted gears I flet a vibration in the clutch peddle then a lond noise from the tranny area like my starter was and fly wheel. Then the ranger die with the few tools I had with my figured out there is NO Spark! I list day light so had to tow it home. Any input will help thanks.
 
Perhaps the distributor grenaded? remove the cap and see if you can spin the rotor or not. If you can, it sounds like it broke.
 
Timing chain failure is rare on a 3.0, but easy to test for.

Pull the cam sensor off. Not the synchro drive, just the little cap, then crank the engine over and see if the sensor spins.
 
That could explain the noise I heard when it happen I swear it felt as if it come from under the cab area.
 
So I took the cap off and it does still spin. Seems like im getting power up untill the coil pack but if it was the coil would it just fail with no warning at all?
 
Getting 12v primary to coil pack? You can use a test light to see if you're getting 12v primary switching at coil. Check crank angle sensor.
 
Yeah here is thing with a test if I prob the harness going into the coil pack I have power, when I disconnected from the harness and with a omh meter I prob cylinder 1 &5 I have 12v more like 12.5v if the coil pack in not pluged in to anything why does it stil have 12v?
 
The Crank angle sensor? Is that also know called the camshaft position senor? I beleive on the 3.0 they sit at a 40° angle? The fact the I heard a loud noise in the back of the motor and flet it in the clutchh
paddle is stompping me.
 
So I'm a little confused by what you just said. You're using an ohm meter to test resistance or voltage between cylinders and you're reading 12V?

If I can decrypt what you're saying, if you unplug the coil pack from the harness you won't have any power on the pack at all. But I'm not sure what you're saying.

The loud bang does not sound like it would be the coilpack though.

Just curious, can you shift the vehicle at all? Did your clutch just explode? A shuddering clutch followed by a bang, followed by the ranger lugging and then dying? Bad plugs, bad coil pack, burnt wires, etc...
 
Last edited:
Yeah here is thing with a test if I prob the harness going into the coil pack I have power, when I disconnected from the harness and with a omh meter I prob cylinder 1 &5 I have 12v more like 12.5v if the coil pack in not pluged in to anything why does it stil have 12v?

I think you need a Haynes Manual to help you understand testing for electrical. Not sure what is disconnected when you test. Coils have primary & secondary. Coil will always read 12V primary, ECU switches primary off/on through ground to create secondary. Test light should blink off/on as ECU switches primary as you crank engine.
 
Thats exactly what im saying with the harness UN pluged I still had the read of 12v. If I use I test light and probe a spark plug wire I have no spark in any cylinder. Yeah im very lost.
 
If I use I test light and probe a spark plug wire I have no spark in any cylinder. Yeah im very lost.

A 12V test light is not what you use to test a 12K to 15K potential spark. Ground a plug to view the spark.
 
A 12V test light is not what you use to test a 12K to 15K potential spark. Ground a plug to view the spark.


Lol, yikes. His electrical testing skills seem to be lacking, I think this is impossible for us to help him diagnose. You unplugged the coilpack from the harness but obviously missed something else, or you're testing improperly.
 

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