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Xpost from Introductions - 94 ranger with... problems


Got the sender unit cheap at the junk yard and I have to pull the bed for the filler neck anyway...

As for a "how not to" thread, I'll see if I can keep it on track.


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?y0cehi
With all those codes I just don't want to see you have to pull the bed twice because of a bad fuel pump. I would spend the $15 for a new sock. Best thing to do is figure out the issues as best you can. It sounds like you are kind of doing that. A few fuel pressure test would be good but maybe not feasible

What is that taptalk and how does the link work?
 
With all those codes I just don't want to see you have to pull the bed twice because of a bad fuel pump. I would spend the $15 for a new sock. Best thing to do is figure out the issues as best you can. It sounds like you are kind of doing that. A few fuel pressure test would be good but maybe not feasible

What is that taptalk and how does the link work?

Tapatalk is just some forum software I have on my phone. I should probably disable the geolocation feature.

Anyway, the sender unit I believe includes the fuel pump... I assume that's the black cylinder thing with the fuel lines running to it?

I still haven't pulled the bed, but I'm happy to report that I did some work this morning and the truck passed VA emissions! No CEL, and it's running much better, though it still doesn't seem to want to start sometimes when hot. It will crank and sputter and I'll leave it for 5 min and it will start and run perfectly. I'm thinking old plugs maybe. I have the plugs and wires here and ready to go on, just didn't get to it today.

I did do the coolant and air intake temp sensors, the O2 sensor, both coil packs, and installed the Mustang/Tbird IAC valve (which fit just fine for future reference - Airtek/Wells 4J1014). Idles higher, seems to have more power, and definitely smoother on the top end. Anybody have any tricks for tightening the lower bolt on the IAC? I wanted to hit the inspection station before it closed and I'm getting about a 1/10th of a turn at a time with the box end wrench. Snugged the top one but the bottom is still about halfway in.
 
Also, I'm thinking about the EGR bypass if anybody has done it. I want all the fuel economy I can get, and all my emissions readings were way below the required values.
 
I've done it

Also, I'm thinking about the EGR bypass if anybody has done it. I want all the fuel economy I can get, and all my emissions readings were way below the required values.

on our 87 2.3 We took off the EGR and used a lifter galley plug to seal it,some just make a plate using gasket as a template,on the manifold fitting we used the tube fitting with a slug welded into it you could go to hardware store and buy a pipe cap of the correct size and use it.Ours works great!:icon_welder:
 
Also, I'm thinking about the EGR bypass if anybody has done it. I want all the fuel economy I can get, and all my emissions readings were way below the required values.

Your mileage will go down if you eliminate the system.
 
Well I haven't touched the egr valve but I did figure out the hot start issue: fuel pump relay. Determined the last time it sputtered and wouldn't fire that a sharp tap on the relay would allow the truck to start. Replaced it today and it seems to be working fine.

I am a still not getting quite the mileage I would expect though. The last tank of mixed city/highway/mountain driving (and admittedly some motorcycle hauling) I pulled just under 19mpg. It's possible that it was actually a bit higher as I have larger than stock tires, but I expected better. Any thoughts on where to look other than me driving like an asshole? Next moves are new tranny and diff fluid...
 

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