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Xpost from Introductions - 94 ranger with... problems


CDC

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
11
City
DC
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hello all, I recently procured a 150k 94 Ranger 2.3 manual 2wd regular cab and I'm trying to get it running right. I'll try to keep some documentation in of the work I'm doing on the truck in this thread.

It drove and sounded ok on the test drive, but when I got it home and began to go through it in the garage I started to notice some... irregularities. There were several massive air leaks, a fuel leak when filling up, a bit of smoking on cold starts, difficulty firing up on hot starts, no horn, janky headlight switch, coolant temp never gets above 1/4 on the gauge, fuel gauge pinned at empty, and pretty bad gas mileage. All that is old car buyer beware type stuff, but to top it off, the previous owner had very carefully covered the check engine light with black electrical tape.

Following the OBD check procedures I've pulled a total of 11 codes from the computer, which is pretty horrifying.

They are:

11 System checks OK

12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC.

16 2.3L - RPM's too low - IDLE
(O) Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems

22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP

23 Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high - TPS

24 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - IAT VAT

32 EVP - (R) EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
PFE - (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently - PFE

43 (R) HO2S sensor not reading (run at 2000 rpm's for 2 minutes and retest - check for HO2S switching)
(M) Was lean at WOT for 3 seconds or more - Fuel control

45 AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems

54 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT

61 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is or was too low - ECT.

I have fixed the air leaks I could find, rebuilt the horn contacts, cleaned the MAF sensor (no apparent change), and currently have a thermostat, fuel level sender, junkyard TPS and headlight switch waiting to go in. I'm just sort of stumped by where to start with the rest of this stuff, and I think I need some help trying to figure out what order to proceed and how to check and maybe service the various bits and pieces rather than just throwing parts at the thing.

I'm not a bad mechanic, but mostly I work on motorcycles so the computer crap is new for me. Is it possible that there is some meta-failure that could be behind all these various issues or am I really looking at replacing all these items? Where to begin?
 
So today I tore into the sensors a bit, and have a few observations.

First, I removed the idle air control valve to clean it, and I decided to check it out. It clicks when I apply 12v to it, but I don't see any significant movement of the shaft. I can move it a bit with pliers, but it seems to just want to sit at halfway seated. That indicates the unit is dead, correct?
 
Also, two of the exhaust side plugs don't seem to be getting spark...
 
Can help you a few things.

These trucks run very cool on the temp reading. I have had my 94 since new and it has never got above 1/2.

The leak while fueling up is a common problem. Search E-Bay a for a new filler hose.

Bad Gas millage??? I would change your o2 sensor. There is just one.


Bryan
 
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It doesn't sound like meta failure...but more like needing some maintenance...and maybe some vac lines have been improperly routed or disconnected...that should be fairly easy to correct...but you may need to take a look at one that is properly setup...unfortunately I don't have any pics of a FI system...

You may need to replace a coil pack if two cylinders are not firing properly...they are paired...for the eight plugs...but if two on the exhaust side are not firing that could be a major problem and cause all kinds of errors...that might be one of the first things to do...if you can grab a jy coil pack and swap that in...check to see if the plugs are getting spark and then retest for codes...it should come up a bit different after that...

The MAP, if present, should be on the firewall just to the right of the heater box...check to make sure it is connected and there is a vac line running to it...

I'm sure someone with more knowledge of the rest can help if the coil pack and vac lines are addressed and you are still seeing codes...

The CEL isn't such a big deal usually but in this case it is indicating that running the engine without correcting it could result in major problems...

I think this one is more important"Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems"...

That would give you all kinds of problems...
 
Ok ordered a load of parts from Rockauto. Only issue I had was with the idle air control valve. Seemed way expensive to me. I'm seeing units on ebay for Ford 2.3 engines that are around $20 and they look identical right down to the electrical connectors. However the part numbers are different and the ranger spec item is like $80 (and hard to find) Anybody know for certain that these other Ford 2.3 iac valves will or won't work on our engines?

-Clay


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?chbwoi
 
Ok ordered a load of parts from Rockauto. Only issue I had was with the idle air control valve. Seemed way expensive to me. I'm seeing units on ebay for Ford 2.3 engines that are around $20 and they look identical right down to the electrical connectors. However the part numbers are different and the ranger spec item is like $80 (and hard to find) Anybody know for certain that these other Ford 2.3 iac valves will or won't work on our engines?

-Clay


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?chbwoi

if that was my truck I would do all the tuneup /maintenance items...add some Techron( will clean fuel system and might repair the sender in the tank causing the gas gauge issue) to the tank right now and drive it before you replace plugs and or o2 sensors.....air filter, fuel filter, pcv, clean TB, IAC, MAF, EGR........new plugs and wires(autolite or motorcraft)......make sure the coolant is full, etc....the plugs are in pairs 1/4,2/3.......if a pair of those plugs are out then most likely the coilpack is bad...you can test for resistance with a multimeter, you also can swap coils and if the dead cylinders follow the coil then you know it is the coil......I am 99% sure the passenger side plugs are the main(combustion) plugs. those are easy so you can swap them right out.......after I got the tuneup stuff done I would clear the codes and then remove the neg bat cable for 20 minutes to clear the ecu...........drive the truck and monitor what codes come back on.
 
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Ok ordered a load of parts from Rockauto. Only issue I had was with the idle air control valve. Seemed way expensive to me. I'm seeing units on ebay for Ford 2.3 engines that are around $20 and they look identical right down to the electrical connectors. However the part numbers are different and the ranger spec item is like $80 (and hard to find) Anybody know for certain that these other Ford 2.3 iac valves will or won't work on our engines?

-Clay


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?chbwoi

trust me......only use autolite or motorcraft plugs and wires, the wires come with hooks on 3 of them.....you will need a $10 tool to swap out the fuel filter
 
No tool needed for the 94 fuel filter. Just has plastic c-clips that u remove with a screwdriver.
 
Bag of those clips are pretty cheap, they will bust when pulling them.
Seafoam in the tank and also sucked through a vacuum line works well.( good to freak out your neighbors too)
My idle servo sticks on me at least once a year, I just pull it ,spray it with wd40 and re-install.

Number 3 on the intake is the only plug thats a real PITA to get the boot off. I make a hook out of music wire to grab in between the boot and the plug.

Fuel filler neck, ford stock those for 500 bucks :icon_rofl:

Ebay and china are your friend Ive got one for less than 40 (psst ford:thefinger:)

Pull the bed to change it (obvious to most)
 
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Fuel filler neck, ford stock those for 500 bucks :icon_rofl:

Ebay and china are your friend Ive got one for less than 40 (psst ford:thefinger:)

Pull the bed to change it (obvious to most)

I got mine from Here and its just under $40 (as stated) plus shipping
 
I got mine from Here and its just under $40 (as stated) plus shipping


I have fuel injector cleaner in the tank now, no change, so I picked up a sending unit from a junkyard and I have the ebay filler neck ready to go in as well. Still waiting on some other parts.

I'm going to take a flyer on the cheap IAC valve off the older 2.3 and if it doesn't clear the egr valve I'll send it back. It's off the turbo Mustang/Tbird and appears to be more robust and possibly rebuildable. Only issue I can see is that you won't be able to remove the throttle position sensor without first removing the IAC, but it's $50 cheaper... Later rangers seem to have an identical IAC valve that is also cheaper, but the connector is different. Still a 2 prong plug, just rounded instead of square. I'm sure I could make something work but this is probably simpler.
 
I have fuel injector cleaner in the tank now, no change, so I picked up a sending unit from a junkyard and I have the ebay filler neck ready to go in as well. Still waiting on some other parts.

I'm going to take a flyer on the cheap IAC valve off the older 2.3 and if it doesn't clear the egr valve I'll send it back. It's off the turbo Mustang/Tbird and appears to be more robust and possibly rebuildable. Only issue I can see is that you won't be able to remove the throttle position sensor without first removing the IAC, but it's $50 cheaper... Later rangers seem to have an identical IAC valve that is also cheaper, but the connector is different. Still a 2 prong plug, just rounded instead of square. I'm sure I could make something work but this is probably simpler.

not all fuel injector cleaners are created equal..techron claims to sometimes be able to solve the sending unit issue created by to much sulfur in some fuel's. So you are going to pull the bed and replace the sending unit before you do the tuneup and fuel pressure test :icon_confused:... .. I hope that once you finish DX and you pull the bed you at least replace the sock at the bottom of the pump..............IMHO...you are on the verge of another epic "how not to clinic" thread.......
 
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if that was my truck I would do all the tuneup /maintenance items...add some Techron( will clean fuel system and might repair the sender in the tank causing the gas gauge issue) to the tank right now and drive it before you replace plugs and or o2 sensors.....air filter, fuel filter, pcv, clean TB, IAC, MAF, EGR........new plugs and wires(autolite or motorcraft)......make sure the coolant is full, etc....the plugs are in pairs 1/4,2/3.......if a pair of those plugs are out then most likely the coilpack is bad...you can test for resistance with a multimeter, you also can swap coils and if the dead cylinders follow the coil then you know it is the coil......I am 99% sure the passenger side plugs are the main(combustion) plugs. those are easy so you can swap them right out.......after I got the tuneup stuff done I would clear the codes and then remove the neg bat cable for 20 minutes to clear the ecu...........drive the truck and monitor what codes come back on.
:icon_thumby::icon_thumby:

trust me......only use autolite or motorcraft plugs and wires, the wires come with hooks on 3 of them.....you will need a $10 tool to swap out the fuel filter

I agree with the stuff this guy said ^^^^^^^^^^^^:icon_thumby:
 
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Got the sender unit cheap at the junk yard and I have to pull the bed for the filler neck anyway...

As for a "how not to" thread, I'll see if I can keep it on track.


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?y0cehi
 

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