Here is my parts order for the 4.0L OHV rebuild. Any suggestions.

[squealingtires]

Oversize Pistons .020” - Sealed Power
Oversize Moly Rings .020” - Sealed Power
Gasket Set - Sealed Power
Cam Bearings Durabond
Rod Bearings - Clevite
Main Bearings - Clevite
Oil Pump - Melling M328 High Volume
Lifters - Johnson
Brass Freeze Plugs - Doorman
Timing Set - Cloys
Head bolts

Comp Cams 49-410-8
Comp Dual Valve Springs 988-12
Comp Dual Valve Spring Retainers 775-1
Rocker Arms (need 3)

I've also already had the block baked, blasted, bored .020" over, and hot-tanked.

Additional items are to
-lap the valves
-Port match heads' intake runners to the intake manifold.
-replace 3 pitted rocker arms
-painting the block Ford Blue and the heads Ford Grey with Duplicolor Engine Enamel

Any other suggestions?

 

[jd4242]

Yea the 422 cam.the 410 doesn't need 988 springs.SI port flow valves and longer pushrods.witch piston and heards are you using?i would bump the compression up a point

 

[06RangerXLT]

if your replacing rocker arms, id thow in some roller rockers.

 

[squealingtires]

Yea the 422 cam.the 410 doesn't need 988 springs.SI port flow valves and longer pushrods.witch piston and heards are you using?i would bump the compression up a point

I want to keep the torque down low to help the big tires 35's manual transmission. The guy from Comp thoughts were the 410 would be just right. The 988 springs were recommendended for both the 410 and 422. (I'd imagine the lobe profiles are similar interms of ramp rate so that's why I'm thinking the 988's are recommended. I'm a little worried that the added spring pressures are going to wear the pushrods/rocker out faster so that's why I opted for the high volume pump to hopefull get a little more oil up top. The guy from melling didn't even recommend the smaller M128 pump. He even told me that the bearing clearances should be left to OEM specs even with the High Vol. pump which goes against conventional wisdom but he said the 4.0L engines have always had low RPM lubrication issues which is the main reason for much of the overall wear. Do you know what the pushrod length should be with the 410 or 422 cams. I've milled the head down .010" so that should have the same effect as lenthening the pushrods.

The pistons are the Sealed Power Hypereutectic, factory replacement piston. Its the only one they offer. Other options were a Silv-O-Lite (Keith Black) piston which were more expensive but had a coated skirt which I thought was nice.

I have one factory 90-TM head and an aftermarket 90-TM head that I bought after I noticed a crack between the intake and exhaust valve in cyl. #5

 

[squealingtires]

if your replacing rocker arms, id thow in some roller rockers.

Where can I find said roller rockers. That would take away all of my concerns

 

[hondaxr650]

Where can I find said roller rockers. That would take away all of my concerns

I'm not sure they even exist. I searched for them when I recently had to replace my rockers and couldn't come up with any. Check out ebay for stock replacement ones. I picked up new rockers, already assembled on used shafts and pedestals, with new pushrods for 120 bucks.

 

[squealingtires]

I'm not sure they even exist. I searched for them when I recently had to replace my rockers and couldn't come up with any. Check out ebay for stock replacement ones. I pick up new rockers, already assembled on used shafts and pedestals, with new pushrods for 120 bucks.

If it were up to me, I'd run a hydraulic lifter with forced oiling out through the pushrods up to the rocker arms but putting that together would be more work than it is worth. The splash oiling is probably why nobody had put a roller/rollertip rocker arm together; you need forced oil to the needle bearings and the only way to do that would be to run the oil through the lifter and pushrod. Getting a roller rocker and a stand setup would be the easy part.