I'm still having some ignition problems?

[Captain Ledd]

So since no-one seemed to be able to make sense of the information on my first post I did some more digging myself. (and simplified my info)

1997 Ford Ranger, 2.3L I4, manual transmission, 2wd.

Major issues:

Engine bucking and trying to escape at 60mph+
low power all around
miss at idle
stumbles when engaging clutch to start moving (seemed fine every subsequent gear) also bucks and backfires.

Timing belt went out a few thousand ago and these issues have become worse ever since.


I did a bunch of computer tests and other diagnosis tricks and it was advancing my ignition timing between 40-50 degrees! Cylinders 1,2 and 4 had 90psi, and cylinder 3 had 70psi compression. I decided things looked like I did in fact somehow mess up my timing belt job.

I've just returned from re-doing it, went to check torque specs and the keyway was supposed to be vertical afterall! I had spotted a dot the next tooth section over and moved the crank over one tooth so the dot was straight up and down. The timing cover also now says I'm about 20° BTDC.

So I guess I had the cam timing adjusted correctly all along. so what's the deal with the ignition?

Has all new fuel injectors, every thing has been cleaned with the appropriate cleaner.

Just put new plugs in it, speaking of which there was issues with those too.

The #3 cylinder plug was loose and missing the electrode. the catch? The computer didn't care about Cylinder #3 at all, it was hollering about a misfire on cylinder #2! and it's not like it's confused because the firing order is 1-3-4-2 on these engines, freaking 180° apart. This was probably the miss at idle. Though throwing a timing light on the engine showed cylinder 4 cutting out when it stumbled.

I have a strong feeling something else is going on though...

I'm truly at a loss with this engine. I have a ****load of new parts on the truck, even more ready to go in and in the last 5,000 miles the whole thing has gone to hell in a hand basket and I cannot figure out why.

Does anyone know anything I could possibly check? I honestly don't have the money or time to pull the engine "just to check on the internals".

 

[Bryan22]

Have you tested the coil packs? or done a fuel pressure test?

 

[Captain Ledd]

Have you tested the coil packs? or done a fuel pressure test?

Coil packs no, no one could tell me how to test them without replacing them (I'm running out of funds I'm willing to throw at this thing)

Fuel pressure test I didn't do a sophisticated one, but it held 40psi (spec) for a good minute and after a few minutes only went down to about 36/37 psi.

 

[Bryan22]

take a multimeter and test primary resistance from the electrical connector. from either outside terminal to the center terminal should be less than 5 ohms. then test secondary resistance on coil packs between corresponding cylinders (1,4 and 2,3). Should be anywhere from 10k-15k ohms depending on what brand coil packs you're running.

The secondary resistance on one of my packs was 30k ohms and it was bad enough to miss at idle and backfire pretty much whenever it felt like it. But it still ran fine at normal driving rpms.

 

[Bryan22]

I'm not understanding something here, with all other marks lined up your crank is at 20* BTDC? If that's corrects... it's wrong. if all the other marks are lined up crank should be at TDC... also 70-90 lbs of compression is very bad. either the valve timing is still off or the motor needs help.

 

[Captain Ledd]

I'm not understanding something here, with all other marks lined up your crank is at 20* BTDC? If that's corrects... it's wrong. if all the other marks are lined up crank should be at TDC... also 70-90 lbs of compression is very bad. either the valve timing is still off or the motor needs help.

No, that's where I thought the timing should be the 2nd time around (the dot on the crank sprocket vertical, not the keyway). I had the crank key vertical the first time around. I noticed the dot the 2nd time through and thought that's maybe where it was supposed to be, but it isn't. It's getting put back one tooth over tomorrow morning (keyway vertical).

So yeah, the timing was right and correct with that low compression. Still no idea why it's kicking the timing so far advanced. I'll try your previous posts's idea this weekend sometime. I know there's some kind of engine wear/damage going on, but there's also electrical issues I'd like to nail down first. like:

Computer says misfire cylinder #2
Cylinder #3 drivers side spark plug missing electrode and being partway unscrewed
Cylinder #4 cutting out with a timing light when the engine stumbles at idle.
Computer doesn't seem to care about cylinders #3 and #4
Can't find anything wrong with cylinder #2 (aside from the low compression across the board)

Thar be gremlins somewhere in there.

Coil packs are original.

 

[Bryan22]

ya, go ahead and test the coil packs, shouldn't take more than about 10-15 minutes. But I really think you've got a valve timing issue causing the back firing and low compression....

 

[LVRC]

check the crankshaft position sensor and it's wire for cracks or chafing

 

[Captain Ledd]

Well, I may have things figured out... kinda.

Crankshaft position sensor is fine. The Camshaft position sensor wire has a hole worn through the electrical tape covering, but no damage of any sort that I can see.

Though the real shock is when I noticed that there were no less than THREE alignment marks on EACH of the camshaft and oil pump gears. I found the diamond on the camshaft gear, but it still took me several minutes to make out the diamond on the oil pump gear. And yeah, that's what the oil pump gear (and consequently camshaft position sensor) needs to be lined up at.

Camshaft sprocket is lined up triangle to triangle

Oil Pump sprocket is lined up diamond to diamond

Crankshaft is keyway up.

I have to wonder if this is explains the MULTITUDE of "my 2.3L has a miss after changing timing belt" that are in this forum section, and why no amount of parts seems to fix the problem. Why the hell wouldn't ONE mark do the job?

The crankshaft and the camshaft were in sync from the start, so apparently my oil pump f-up has caused some degree of damage. I can hear some air hissing around the oil fill tube and when I stick my finger over the dipstick hole and tap the hissing follows the tapping. So much for trying to keep such good care of the engine over the years...

Still have yet to check the oil packs. Though this will likely help things a lot having things actually correct. Still going to test them for shits and giggles, why the hell not?

So hopefully when I don't have to clock in at work so much I can get this thing back together and see how long it lasts.

Argh.

 

[RedRyder97]

Yea I got pics of those . I just remember their are dif ones to look at one is for manufacture and one is for installing the timing belt. Check out the pics . My only thing is that I still have that same stumble at take off or between shift. No problem with get up and go but that and it idles fine. 220 k .