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D44 TTB swap question???


i race it as a Tuff truck. i have mud bogged it a few times but Im all about jumping it and flying high. i have $400 in the whole truck. thats with the engine swap and everything.
 
How well would a solid axle hold up to jumping?
 
That looks to me like something struck the bracket on a landing. I don't think anything you could do to the bracket would make it survive something like that.

A cut & turn of the beams (along with shorter brackets) would get them up a lot higher for better clearance.
 
i could have welded a gusset between the bracket and the sway bar mount but i really don't want to waste anymore time on it.it'll be put in my girls DD 4banger ranger. the main reason why i did it was to see if i could. The 4wd Tuff trucks that im running against are all running solid axles with either coil overs or coils and tennis balls. i orders 5.5 duff progressive coils and will be running dual shocks in the front. it works for the rest of the vehicles running the same setup and makes launching your truck alot more fun. this is ranger #27 for me. i love these little trucks. the trucks in the front that are winning are running 4wd and solid axles.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm_TsRPciAg&feature=related
 
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its not anything new and has been being done for years. it helps out more than you can imagine. and its way cheaper then $200 per bump stop.
http://4x4mecca.com/forum/4x4-tech-talk/4849-tennis-balls.html

I scratching my head.. That is odd.. If it works, it works..

For what your doing with the truck. I would keep the TTB. Build some stock length beam brackets. Cut and extend the lower ball joint on the beams to correct for camber alignment from the lift. A decent TTB setup will destroy a straight axle on a tuff truck course.

I know it takes a little thought to get the TTB to work well and be reliable but its well worth it. Plus its actually less work then doing a SAS.

After you do the lower ball joint extension all you need to work on is steering.
 
I scratching my head.. That is odd.. If it works, it works..

For what your doing with the truck. I would keep the TTB. Build some stock length beam brackets. Cut and extend the lower ball joint on the beams to correct for camber alignment from the lift. A decent TTB setup will destroy a straight axle on a tuff truck course.

I know it takes a little thought to get the TTB to work well and be reliable but its well worth it. Plus its actually less work then doing a SAS.

After you do the lower ball joint extension all you need to work on is steering.




x eleventy billion
 
Will D44 TTB arms work with D35 TTB crossmember? or do you need the D44 TTB crossmember?

Thanks!



i would cut and fit the ttb k member from a 150 to your jeep chassis bud.


make for a cake install for you.:icon_thumby:
 
For that kind of offroading, I would go with TTB any day.
 
Probably wants the width of the D44.

The D44 actually has narrower (closer together) mounting points than the D35, however a D44's pivots can be bolted directly into the space where a D35 was. You will have to shorten the passengerside axle shaft(s) a total of 1.5-2" to account for that difference in pivot spacing (or better, you could instead lengthen each beam 1", which would preserve the axle's entire original width).

If you're putting a TTB where one did not exist before though (Jeep, etc.), then yes your brackets will be pretty much entirely custom. If you don't have any references to measure from, I would set the spacing of both sides so that the center axle slip-shaft is about 1.5 - 2" from bottomed out with the suspension positioned at normal static ride height.


So then if the passenger side's axle is shortened, then the pivots can be directly bolted in place of the D35 correct?
I am planing on obtaining a D44 ttb to use with 4" rough country lift beam mounts to make at least 14" of travel with extended radius arms, jeep coils and mounts.
The body-lift is already in the works
 
So then if the passenger side's axle is shortened, then the pivots can be directly bolted in place of the D35 correct?
I am planing on obtaining a D44 ttb to use with 4" rough country lift beam mounts to make at least 14" of travel with extended radius arms, jeep coils and mounts.
The body-lift is already in the works

Yes, shortening the shaft(s) should allow you to bolt it directly into the pivots. You might need to shorten both the right-side main shaft, as well as maybe a slight bit off the inner stub shaft. Check that you don't cause the axle seal to ride past the machined surface on the inner stub if you do this (this will force the use of a circlip eliminator also, as you'd be losing the button end off it). Or you may be able to shorten just the main shaft only. Just be sure to check everything as you go.

Welcome to TRS, BTW :icon_thumby:
 
Tennis balls?

Can you specify what you meant that the tennis balls are for? I thought WTF is this guy talking about using tennis balls for? :icon_confused:

the only thing i could think of was shoving tennis ballsin the coil to act like a soft bump stop :icon_rofl: and then plating :icon_welder: the top of the coil bucket. Am I right or just way off? :icon_confused:

i changed front coil springs and it brought the steering a bit more level, plus i am using stock unmodded bronco steering. ive have been racing this truck on the weekends as a tough truck and driving it to work everyday. its getting a solid axle put in it this weekend. im tired of bending drivers side ttb brackets. it wasn't that hard of a swap and it can be done in a couple of hrs if you have the right tools.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULNjxV0KWlU&feature=related tennis balls are a must if your going to be jumping a coil sprung truck
 
I think that's what they are doing. . .using a tennis ball as a soft bump stop, but he posted a link about it as well so click the link to make sure.
 

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