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1984 2.8 overheating


pianoman2

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I have a 1984 Ranger with the 2.8 V-6 that tends to run hot. This truck also has an A4LD trans that I rebuilt and installed last year.

Then engine was rebuilt last year, (by me) and ran fine last year during the summer. It is bored .030 over and I have converted the carb and fuel system over to the dura spark system.

The problem I am having is that after about 10 minutes on the highway at 65mph the temp starts to climb. If you stay at that speed long enough it will push 220 degrees on the guage and you better slow it down for a bit or it will climb. Turn the heater on and the temp falls some also.

Idling around town at slower speeds it runs cooler (around 190)

What all has been done: new 195 degree thermostat, new three core radiator, timing set and reset, double checked to make sure tranny is locking the torque converter and that it is going into overdrive.

The thermostat is still located on the outlet for the lower hose.

Also installed a larger fan on the water pump to try and move more air through the radiator. Fan clutch is new.

Not sure where to look next to solve this heating issue, nor why it would be okay last summer, but now won't cool with all the new items.
 


martin

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It sounds like the ignition is retarded or perhaps not advancing when it should do.
 

pianoman2

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Will look at that again this afternoon. The distrubtor is about 7 months old, but could be it isn't bringing the timing up.

Not sure where else to look.
 

Capt Jay

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The obvious thing is look at the fluid level. Second, did you back fill the engine. With the lower thermostat it can get an air bubble in the engine that won't "burp". Pull the upper hose and pour fluid backwards through the system. Don't know if that will help but I had the same problem with my old 2.8. My final fix was 2 more cylinders.
 

pianoman2

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Well, have played all afternoon with this little pickup. Timing is advancing to a total of 30degrees at 2500rpm. At idle it sits at 8 degrees. Looks good there.

I think maybe I am working on a heating problem for the wrong thing.

I am thinking that my problem maybe the torque converter not locking up as it should, creating too much heat for the transmission.

Anyways, there is an oil leak at the rear main, so I am going to go ahead a take both engine and trans out, fix the oil leak, and look into the transmission.

Overdive just doesn't seem to lock as solidly as the one in the 99 Explorer.

The system is full of coolant, and circulates well once the thermoatat opens.

Tooling around town at lower speeds all is good, it's the loong sustained 65mph driving and it takes about 20 minutes of driving to get it hot. Once at 210 (or slightly higher) it takes forever to cool down.

I'll let you know what I find.
 

pianoman2

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Short Update. Got both engine and trans out of the Ranger, opened up the trans and found the overdrive band had burnt, and the snap ring holding the springs and piston for the overdrive clutch had come off and let the springs roll loose inside the clutch area. So, Torque converter was locking up, but no help from the over drive clutch.

Not sure if the band burning overheated the snap ring, or if the snap ring came off and caused the band to burn. But the damage is done.

As for the oil leak, the "new" rear main seal I put is was leaking. Felpro offers a more expensive ptfe seal which seems to fit tighter in the cap and block. Also found a place on oil pan gasket leaking so replaced that while the engine was out. The new fuel pump was leaking where part of the body is clamped together. So, got to replace it.

Will try to get the engine and trans back in this weekend and see how it goes.
 
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pianoman2

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Another update.

Got the Ranger back together today. Transmission now works like it should. Installed new overdrive band, clutch, new rear seal in the engine.

No more oil leaks, but still have overheating issues.

About to pull my hair out. Takes 20 minutes or so of highway mileage for it to start overheating, then takes forever to cool it down.

Has new radiator, thermostat, correct coolant level, coolant is circulating in the engine. Also has larger fan to move more air.

Have played with the timing to no avail. The vacuum and mechanical advance are working.

I haven't serioulsy considered water pump since it was a rebuilt unit and it is circulating water ad doesn't heat at lower speeds.

Any ideas greatly apprciated.:dunno:
 

2.8 is great!

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My rebuilt 2.8 daily driver with duraspark and 2150 was running hot for a while .... it simply turned out to be the choke thermostat housing either needed a minor turn, or gasket was not sealed or was loose. I have the heat tap to exhaust manifold plugged - just electric choke.
 

pianoman2

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Got the old water pump off today ( 6 months old) and compared it to one I got at the local parts store.

There is a dramatic amount of diffence in the size of the water passageways in the old one as compared to the new one. The new pump has bigger passageways by quite a margin.

Should be able to try it out tomorrow evening. The old one just doesn't look to me like it can move the same amount of water the new one looks like it can.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 

pianoman2

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Well, one last new update. The new water pump seemed to have done the trick. Some thermometers read 99 here today, and with a 195 thermostat going ddown the highway at 70 mph the little beast stayed under 210 for as long as I drove it.

Not sure if it was the larger passage ways in the newer pump, or if there was a problem in the old pump I just couldn't see.

But at any rate, I'm much happier now, and still no oil leaks.
 

alabamaranger

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What we did,

1. Convert that lower T-stat to the upper stat type. Be sure to remove it completely (lower).
The lower traps air in the engine. Ford went to the upper in 85 to solve the problem.

2. Got rid of the small 2 core radiator and went to a Exployer radiator (large 2 core).
3. Went from the 195 F to a 180 F T-sat.
4. Went to a Flex Fan.

The motor now runs on the "M" in NORM where it ran toward the "N" before. Before the truck ran half way during normal operation. But when offroading in the heat, climbing or going uphill it would run toward the top of the gauge. Now with the modifications, we are now on the cold side of the gauge.

Lower to Upper T-Stat Conversion with new T-stat = $15.00
Exployer Radiator with 30 day warranty = 43.00
Flex Fan = 34.00
Fan Adapter = 10.00

We have 3 vehicles that we use offroad. The factory fan w clutch does not keep things cool. We swap all three to the metal flex fans and they pull a lot of air through the radiator.
 

alabamaranger

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When you did the carb, did you check to see what jets are in it? You need 47 or 48 size. You might be running lean. Might check for vacuum leaks.

On my 85BII with the A4LD, I did the duraspark conversion with the GM lockup vacuum switch. I had also added a trans cooler in front of the radiator.

On the 84 with the lower T-stat, it could be running fine and all of sudden it would overheat. When we did the upper swap, it help 99%.
 

dangerranger83

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My dads 2.8 liter was over heating last summer but it was being caused by it being leaned out (the fuel filter on the carb was full of rust because he took out the in-tank fuel strianer out) but later we put a new tank in and that solved the problem.
 

NixRanger

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47 or 48 size jet ??

Hi all;

This is kinda off topic of overheating - my carb has #52 jets, a bit larger than what 'bamaranger mentioned......my MPG sucks, should I be running some smaller ones?? The carb is the 2150, it's got the "1.08" size stamped on side of carb body.

As for overheating - mine did that couple years ago while on the interstate, left me stranded and pissed ! Went to bigger radiator and put some rubber around the fan shroud ( mine had up to 1/2" gap in some places). I run the factory clutch-fan, lower temp thermostat and happy to say I haven't had a cooling problem since. I wonder if an electric would be better way to go, I frequently spend time sitting in traffic, which is only getting worse.

but I am curious about the jet size in my carb !!!
 

skippy

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Hi all;

This is kinda off topic of overheating - my carb has #52 jets, a bit larger than what 'bamaranger mentioned......my MPG sucks, should I be running some smaller ones?? The carb is the 2150, it's got the "1.08" size stamped on side of carb body.

As for overheating - mine did that couple years ago while on the interstate, left me stranded and pissed ! Went to bigger radiator and put some rubber around the fan shroud ( mine had up to 1/2" gap in some places). I run the factory clutch-fan, lower temp thermostat and happy to say I haven't had a cooling problem since. I wonder if an electric would be better way to go, I frequently spend time sitting in traffic, which is only getting worse.

but I am curious about the jet size in my carb !!!
The original feedback carb on mine had #50 jets in it,so i would say that you are fairly close.I would put the correct t-stat back in the vehicle and clock a tank of gas,also check your timing.

I had crappy mileage at first with duraspark and holley 350,I found #52 jets and a good tank of gas gave me 20 mpg.I believe next tank was crappy,and i looked,sure enough,the station is putting 10% ethanol in the gas.

So,in short check your timing,install the 195 degree t-stat,and make sure you buy decent gas.I am assuming good plugs,plug wires,clean air filter,etc...
 

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