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got my new carby- now what


jester77

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ok, got my new carby- simple motorcraft rebuilt by holley from parts america. bought the one for the 78 pinto 2.8 liter.

Now all you hot shot pro tuners give me the advice I need.

What should my no- vacuum timing be set to??
What should it be once I hook up my vacuum??
Where should the vacuum hook up to the carb??
Do I really need the exhaust heat choke assist tube thingy??
Can my tube thingy just be a tube that I put down into the manifold for heat??


God I hope this thing works!!!:yahoo:
 


Lifted2x

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What should my no- vacuum timing be set to??

10 degrees btdc

What should it be once I hook up my vacuum??

Idk, never checked

Where should the vacuum hook up to the carb??

There should be a vacuum port on the carb above the throttle plates. It is ported vacuum, dont just run it to the manifold

Do I really need the exhaust heat choke assist tube thingy??

Just go to the parts store and get a manual choke kit, more reliable

Can my tube thingy just be a tube that I put down into the manifold for heat??
 

skippy

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ok, got my new carby- simple motorcraft rebuilt by holley from parts america. bought the one for the 78 pinto 2.8 liter.

Now all you hot shot pro tuners give me the advice I need.

What should my no- vacuum timing be set to??
What should it be once I hook up my vacuum??
Where should the vacuum hook up to the carb??
Do I really need the exhaust heat choke assist tube thingy??
Can my tube thingy just be a tube that I put down into the manifold for heat??


God I hope this thing works!!!:yahoo:
10 degrees btdc,before and after hooking vacuum up,enginge warmed up and idling.Hook dizzy vacuum to the port just in front of the auto choke,at idle no vacuum,when reving vacuum should be present.

Block off 1/4 inch male flare at bottom of choke with cap from any central air conditioner service valve.

Good luck with it,I haven't been able to get mine happy and went back to the 350 and smaller jets.
 

jester77

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This things runs beautiful!!!

I changed the carb, hooked the fuel line up and started it and watched as fuel came up through the two little vent holes on the top, what the hell........ realized I hooked the fuel line up to what looks like a float bowl vent..... hooked the fuel line up to the proper fuel line spot....

Started- idles amazing, set the timing to 10 btdc, idle down to 750 rpm, smooooooth!!!! Took it out for a test spin.... WOW!!! It actually idles when I pull up to a light!!!

Headed for work this morning in the cold, starts to stutter at mid power range?? Driving home, same thing- idles beautifully, about mid throttle it just feels like two cylinders are dropping off?? WTF?? Still push in the clutch idle right down??

going to change the plugs tomorrow, maybe with the holley I fowled the old plugs

(Need to figure out how to adjust out the throttle cable- too much slack... thought I saw a thread about that somewhere)
 

jester77

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AAAAHHHHHHH FUCH FUCH FUCH FUCH GAWDDDAAAMMMMNNNN FUCHING FORD RANGER PIECESSS OFFFF CRRRAPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AAAAAHHHHHHHHH I THINK I HAVE A DEAD CYLINDER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I AM AT A POINT I JUST WANT TO GO PUSH IT DOWN A DAMN HILL AND WATCH IT DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger:
:thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger:
:thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger::thefinger:


My wifey is sick of my greasy sticky stinky oil grease covered hands, my constant conversation about what is next I need to fix!!!!!!!!!!!!


I am actually happy about the last year and a half of Ranger ownership, got me to and from work, driving 60 miles a day, and after a year and a half I only have around 1100 dollars into this thing, but dammit when is it time to cut and run, take on a truck payment.

Dammit:bawling::bawling::bawling::bawling::bawling::bawling::bawling:
:bawling::bawling::bawling::bawling::bawling:
 

small ranger

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Well I am sure glad its a cylinder and not the Holley! May be you should spend more money on a fuel pump or trying to tune your new carb instead spending 10 min on a compression test. I am not convinced you have a bad cylinder either from you track record as a mechanic. Just my two cents
 

jester77

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nice response!! GEEZ!!! Well I didn't buy a compression tester- I just did the plugs and the wires. The plugs were so carbon fouled from the HOLLEY!!! I just think I bought a not so good rebuilt holley and tried to run with it for a year that the engine is just so loaded down. I changed the mains on the holley from a 61, to a 58 and finished with a 56. But since they were so carboned up I am pretty sure I blew a power valve on the holley and it would have been fine. I also don't think the choke was working right on the holley either so....

I will give my two cents in response:

When you do the whole ignition/ carb swap- it's worth it!! The ignition has been flawless.
Buy your carb from a reputable rebuild shop or someplace like Summitt racing. I spent a year dealing with what probably would have been remedied if I would have spent the extra 50 dollars and went with a better shop instead of trying to save a buck on ebay.

I am sure that there will be more questions asked about fine tuning the Motorcraft, but it's just nice to pull up to a light and have the truck idle down. I am sure I will burn through a couple sets of plugs before I have everything tuned just right, the black soot that is coming out of my exhaust right now is disgusting, but I am sure it will burn itself out over the next few days.

:icon_cheers:
 

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