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3.0 turbo questions


Trick450r

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First off id like to say hey everyone, this is my first post here.

with that said i have a 93' ranger, 3.0 automatic. Its going to be my daily driver to replace my bronco, and i want to turbo it haha.

ive got two choices for turbos to start with a .48a/r garett off a saab, or a garrett td05h off a honda, and ive already got a fmic, bov, boost controller, oil fiilter feed adapter and piping, and both of them have external wastegates already.

im looking for around 5-7 psi, ill throw in a wideband and tune it from their.

my questions
1. i Know a 2.9 will take some boost, howabout the 3.0?
2. Will i need injectors for only 5-7 psi?
3. Can i flip my manifolds?
 


Gotta_gofast

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Welcome!
Do some searchin. There's a couple of forums on this specific topic. For some of the stuff not covered in those topics...

1: Your automatic transmission is an A4LD 4 speed... its junk. I really don't think it will like the extra power very well. Best bet is to look into an M5OD-R1 swap.
2: I highly recommend an SCT multi-chip for the EEC-IV system. Go to an SCT dealer and spend a couple of hours on the dyno with a professional to tune it correctly or you risk melting your pistons. I wouldn't go over 7psi with the factory pistons.
3: The 2.9L and 3.0L are completely different engines. Infact, there are no other "vulcan" engines. But the 3.0L V6 is a reliable machine.
4: You can flip your manifolds.
 

Trick450r

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would the 5 speed from a 2.9 bolt up to it?
Can i build a4ld at all?
how much power can be attained at like 6psi?

btw after some research i think ill be starting with the tdo5h, its a 14b turbo, stock from a mitsu 4g63t i believe.

its good for about 20 psi, so when the 3.0 is on its death bed and i crank that boost way up it should make a good video. lol
 

Gotta_gofast

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You have to get a 3.0L specific M5OD-R1. The bellhousings on the mazda transmissions are cast into the case so you cannot split them. With a big checkbook you could probably have a custom built A4LD trans but I don't think its worth it, money wise or performance wise. A manual with a good clutch and a short-throw shifter will run rings around a 4 speed auto.
 

Sevensecondsuv

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I see several issues:

1. The A4LD isn't going to handle it with any reliability. It might last a few pulls but dont even think about depending on it.

2. The 14 lb/hr injectors aren't enough for any boost. You need at least 19's, which is going to require retuning to run them.

3. 3.0's are known for pinging in stock form, a turbo will only make it worse.

If you wanted to do it right, build another 3.0 with lower compression and polished chambers, forged pistons (if such a thing exists for 3.0s), 24 lb/hr injectors, intercooled, and custom dyno tuning. The trans would have to be a M5OD-R1 with an upgraded clutch.

That would handle quite a bit of boost reliably and make some good power.
 

Trick450r

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I see several issues:

1. The A4LD isn't going to handle it with any reliability. It might last a few pulls but dont even think about depending on it.

2. The 14 lb/hr injectors aren't enough for any boost. You need at least 19's, which is going to require retuning to run them.

3. 3.0's are known for pinging in stock form, a turbo will only make it worse.

If you wanted to do it right, build another 3.0 with lower compression and polished chambers, forged pistons (if such a thing exists for 3.0s), 24 lb/hr injectors, intercooled, and custom dyno tuning. The trans would have to be a M5OD-R1 with an upgraded clutch.

That would handle quite a bit of boost reliably and make some good power.


Where can i get an m50d-r1, whats it a mazda 5 speed?
im not putting money into the internals, i have everything except the hotside pipes in my garage to put this together, if it blows im gonna pull it off and put a 5.0 in it. And i believe in the little 3.0, i think she'll last.

the main reason im doing this is as a test subject, if all goes well with the kit itself im going to turbo my trans am.
 

Gotta_gofast

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Just pull the drivetrain and put a V8 in it then. At least you can recoupe some of the money by selling a perfectly good 3.0L. V8 swaps aren't simple or cheap, if you do a quality job. Trust me, bought my truck for $2,200 and have well over 3 times that in the swap and stuff.
 

Trick450r

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Just pull the drivetrain and put a V8 in it then. At least you can recoupe some of the money by selling a perfectly good 3.0L. V8 swaps aren't simple or cheap, if you do a quality job. Trust me, bought my truck for $2,200 and have well over 3 times that in the swap and stuff.

the turbo will be cheap and easy, if it works it works. if it doesnt, it doesnt
 

Davis

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if it doesnt, you blow up your engine.

dont ever plan on anything being cheap and easy, i've learned a few things through experience.
 

Gotta_gofast

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lol, if a turbo swap was "cheap and easy" don't you think there'd be a lot of 3.0L rangers with turbos? In order to do a quality turbo swap its going to cost you. Not nearly as much as a V8 swap, but its more complex than forcing air down the Vulcan's throat.
 

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turbo cat

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lol, if a turbo swap was "cheap and easy" don't you think there'd be a lot of 3.0L rangers with turbos? In order to do a quality turbo swap its going to cost you. Not nearly as much as a V8 swap, but its more complex than forcing air down the Vulcan's throat.
B S You can turbocharge a motor cheaply. Ive spent 150$ or less ( i never fully added the parts up) Try doing a V8 swap for 150$ you better have a cheap fully equipt donor truck. Turbocharging is less complex that most think actually. Theres only a few simple items actually. My turbop setup costs 150$ so far and I drive it everyday. Ive probally turned over 15K miles at least with the turbo setup.

Keep the boost low (under 8 psi) this keeps the internals and gaskets alive. Flip the manifolds no need to spend needless money on building custom headers for a mild application. i would use the t-3 off of the saab. It has a small .48 ar housing which will spool the turbo quickly but not choke the motor out like the little tiny mitsu turbo you talking about. The turbo already has a internal gate or should and its most likely set somewhere between 5-8 psi which is great you woulnt need a boost controller. Get a cheapy 40$ ssautochrome bov and a flange to mount it to. tap the pan for the return line and get the feed line made up at a hydraulic store with crimped fittings. There are several solutions for tuning and fuel delivery....chips/stand alone efi/fmu/rising rate fpr/ and so on. Get a AEM wideband o2 to keep your eyes on the AFRs under boost. The AFR under boost should be between 11:1 to 12:1. That will keep gaskets and pistons alive. As for the trans put the money aside that you would have spent on a V8 swap and keep it for incase things break.
 
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Wicked_Sludge

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some people...seriously :annoyed:

ditch the A4LD. a jnukyard M5OD can be had for cheap. ANY year 3.0 5 speed from any ranger or B series pickup will work.

there is absolutely no need to open the motor up (which it doesnt sound like you plan on doing anyway). a 3.0 will take 12PSI all day long with a respectable tune. head gaskets usually fail at over 15 PSI...so you have LOOOTS to work with. a good tune is critical to any forced induction build. you could melt the stock pistons at 2 PSI if you didnt have it tuned properly.

since you already have most of the parts...a turbo will be quicker, easier, and cheaper than swapping in a v-8. not to mention, you'll retain your v-6 fuel economy for daily driving...something you dont get with a v-8.

at least 19lb injectors. better to run rich than run lean and boosting on the stock 14lb-ers will run lean. you may even have to bump the fuel pressure up a little with 19's @ 8psi. your fuel pump would be next on the list...but should be OK for under 10 PSI. bamachips can set you up with a tune to run the 19's and get a little more power than the factory tune.

everyone and their brother has a v-8 ranger these days. do something a little different and squeeze the vulcan, then laugh as you pull the v-8 guys off the line :icon_thumby:
 

Trick450r

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some people...seriously :annoyed:

ditch the A4LD. a jnukyard M5OD can be had for cheap. ANY year 3.0 5 speed from any ranger or B series pickup will work.

there is absolutely no need to open the motor up (which it doesnt sound like you plan on doing anyway). a 3.0 will take 12PSI all day long with a respectable tune. head gaskets usually fail at over 15 PSI...so you have LOOOTS to work with. a good tune is critical to any forced induction build. you could melt the stock pistons at 2 PSI if you didnt have it tuned properly.

since you already have most of the parts...a turbo will be quicker, easier, and cheaper than swapping in a v-8. not to mention, you'll retain your v-6 fuel economy for daily driving...something you dont get with a v-8.

at least 19lb injectors. better to run rich than run lean and boosting on the stock 14lb-ers will run lean. you may even have to bump the fuel pressure up a little with 19's @ 8psi. your fuel pump would be next on the list...but should be OK for under 10 PSI. bamachips can set you up with a tune to run the 19's and get a little more power than the factory tune.

everyone and their brother has a v-8 ranger these days. do something a little different and squeeze the vulcan, then laugh as you pull the v-8 guys off the line :icon_thumby:

i knew someone would step in a give me the straight shit on this engine. (thanks to you to turbo cat)

What i dont think everyone is understanding is i have the turbo (2), bov, boost controller, fmic, piping, couplers, oil feed lines, and flanges, and i already have a wideband for my firebird so i will pull that out for now and use it. All i need to do is make a hotside pipe and im good to go, im quite sure can make a hotside pipe and get an fmu and a few odds and ends, for less than a v8 swap...the auto JUST got rebuilt, if it goes i will put the m50d in it, if it doesnt go then woohoo.

new questions
1. should i replace the headgaskets with something better? newer? thicker?
2. Why the saab turbo? does anyone know where the numbers on it would be
3. Does anyone have any pics of a turbo 3.0, i want to start thinking about where my pipes are going?

I picked this truck up on trade and i did rather well on the trade to say the least, its a test subject and it has very little value to me. I already can daily my bronco or my firebird no problem, i just figured if this works ill start driving it, if it blows up ill drive something else.
 

turbo cat

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Leave the headgaskets alone if there not blown (if it aint broke don't fix it).
The saab turbo is most likely a garret t-3. The reason to go with the T3 over the mitsu turbo is the exhaust housing is on the small side for the mitsu. Those td05s have a tiny exhaust scroll that will limit top end power due to bigger backpressure (choke). Look for some turbop calculators to try and map the compressor to your motor.
As for placement of the turbo theres a few options. Post up a pic of the engine bay. Is the battery on the driver side or passenger that year?

The trannny may be weak but it still works so who give a $$$$ Like you said if it breaks youll upgrade but for now its still a working trans so begins the test of the weakest link.


As for the bama chips NO tuner can mail order you a CORRECT tune over the phione. Your truck would have to be right there on the dyno in front of them. MAIL order bs tunes are not the way to go on a turbocharged setup. if you really want the best start learning about tuning and go with a Megasquirt 2. There not as difficult as you would think but there is alot to learn. You could for starters get a adjustable FMU and use the wideband to adjust the FMU so you can dial in a safe AFR under boost without even touching the ecu or injectors.

Fmus are cheap and are ok for a low boost application. If it dosent run well with the FMu you can sell it and move on. Look into tuners around your area and see if they have the ability to run your truck on the dyno and burn your EEC IV. dyno tunes get costly however.

Since you have a DD take your time on this project don't rush it.
 
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