Back In Boost!

It's been over a month, but my truck is FINALLY running again!

I had to cut some of that radiator support in order for the lower intercooler tube to connect, but this time there are NO LEAKS! It's VERY cold here right now and it was a little hard to start, but once I got it going, I managed to adjust the idle to around 1 000 rpm so that I could drive the thing.

With snow on the road boost is a bit scary . . . I got it stuck once, even with snow tires on the back wheels.

Here are my NEW issues:

1. I have to adjust the cold start and fast idle bypass settings.

2. Something is rubbing when the engine is between 1 500 and 2 000 rpm.

3. The blower intake is close enough to the interior fan that the fan electric supply is arcing against it and intermittently shorting out. Electrical problems scare me to death!

4. I'm having trouble with my clutch again . . .

5. After draining the radiator, I filled it up with water to check for leaks. It's not leaking (yet anyway), but I can't keep the truck outside until I drain the radiator and re-fill it with coolant.

6. The throttle feels "spongy," even though the cable is tight. It's REALLY responsive, though. I touch the throttle and WOAH . . .


I don't know what to do about the fan. I'd post photos of the installation, but it's so ridiculously cold outside right now the battery in my camera won't work!

you need 4wheel drive and boost for the snow

I'd settle for it to be running properly.

Oh, and one more problem . . . The hood doesn't shut very easily . . .

what all did you change from the older pics?

Oh, what I'd show is the radiator support mods and the very small gap between the interior fan and the blower, where it's shorting out. I really don't know what to do about that, and I was hoping someone here would have an idea or two for me to try!

i dont understand how its shorting out. i guess a pic would help. but either way if you wedge a slice of rubber between the pipe and whatever it shoudl prevent the arc

for the electrical arcing, is it from the wires? is something not covered or wrapped? maybe check them all and then recoat any exposed areas with electrical tape (tape has to be warm to stretch and stick properly) and then maybe wrap the entire wire up to the connector in plastic wire loom and then tape the loom at the connector. Definitely find out why it is arcing because you dont want the wires to arc between eachother at all.

The hood problem is most likely something in the blower or tube pressed against the hood inside... maybe try getting a piece of the thicker cardboard from a box and placing it over the blower and tube and then close the hood, reopen it and see where the cardboard has been crushed flat and you will know where it is hitting.

The throttle spongy, is the cable too tight or binding somewhere? if it does not pull freely back and forth the spongy feeling could be the spring at the top of the pedal compressing because it takes too much force to pull the cable. Maybe try disconnecting the cable from each end and pull it back and forth with your hand just make sure it doesnt take any effort to pull it or push it.

If you need a little more clearance with the hood I've been looking into the 01-03 powerdome hood swap for my truck if I have that issue ever. it has about a 1" rise almost all around it. You can see it in the pics below. The hinges should be the same, but I know the latch is different. I haven't checked yet but I'm thinking it may be possible to swap the latch catch on the hood from the old hood to the newer one. I'll check sometime soon (would this weekend, but we should be having lots of snow) and let you know if you are interested. The inside of the hood is flat just like a normal one, but the empty space is there and the inside layer would just need to be cut open to allow use of the upper bulge room.

for the electrical arcing, is it from the wires? is something not covered or wrapped? maybe check them all and then recoat any exposed areas with electrical tape (tape has to be warm to stretch and stick properly) and then maybe wrap the entire wire up to the connector in plastic wire loom and then tape the loom at the connector. Definitely find out why it is arcing because you dont want the wires to arc between eachother at all.

Click to expand...

It SEEMS to be between the heater fan and the blower manifold. It's so tight back there, however, it's impossible to tell for certain.

The hood problem is most likely something in the blower or tube pressed against the hood inside... maybe try getting a piece of the thicker cardboard from a box and placing it over the blower and tube and then close the hood, reopen it and see where the cardboard has been crushed flat and you will know where it is hitting.

Click to expand...

It's the intercooler tube that crosses over the back of the blower. It's hitting the hinge where it turns toward the intake manifold. I've ground it down and even flattened the tubing somewhat, but apparently, it's not enough.

The throttle spongy, is the cable too tight or binding somewhere? if it does not pull freely back and forth the spongy feeling could be the spring at the top of the pedal compressing because it takes too much force to pull the cable. Maybe try disconnecting the cable from each end and pull it back and forth with your hand just make sure it doesnt take any effort to pull it or push it.

Click to expand...

I'll give that a try. I thought it might not have been tight ENOUGH.

If you need a little more clearance with the hood I've been looking into the 01-03 powerdome hood swap for my truck if I have that issue ever. it has about a 1" rise almost all around it. You can see it in the pics below. The hinges should be the same, but I know the latch is different. I haven't checked yet but I'm thinking it may be possible to swap the latch catch on the hood from the old hood to the newer one. I'll check sometime soon (would this weekend, but we should be having lots of snow) and let you know if you are interested. The inside of the hood is flat just like a normal one, but the empty space is there and the inside layer would just need to be cut open to allow use of the upper bulge room.

Click to expand...

That looks interesting. Would it actually FIT on my truck? Also, it's the hinge itself that's running into the intercooler tube. It's really close to fitting, it's just not quite there . . .