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Struggling BII: PLEASE HELP


.of no return

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1984
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Ford
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2.8
Transmission
Automatic
I bought this 84 BII a year ago. Put in a remanufactured 2.8 from Ford. It ran like a champ for while, then the tranny started slipping. In march I got the tranny rebuilt. It ran well for a while then I started noticing a loss in power and it was leaking fluid. I've taken it back to the shop that did the rebuild and they slowed the leak but it hasn't stopped. They've told me its everything but the transmission. Does anybody have any insight as to what it
may be. I'm going to be doing the rest of the work myself and am learning as I go. Somebody please help, any ideas to help get this truck running solid would be greatly appreciated. I'll take all the advice I can get. Thanks
 


almostclueless

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I would be their worst headache if a transmission shop couldn't stop it from leaking....
 

.of no return

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:pray::dntknw:I brought her back to the shop tht put the engine in, to eliminate their install from causing the lack of power. Everything checked out. So Monday I take her home then to the Tranny shop now that I've eliminated, I believe, everything but a transmission problem. Thats why I'm asking if anyone has any ideas what else could be causing this problem. I'd appreciate any ideas and or input. So come on fellas, throw a dog a bone. I know I'm a rookie but theres only one way to learn. THANKS
:dntknw:
 

skippy

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I tend to agree with almostclueless,a leaking tranny,no no no!take it back and make it right.Did you get any warranty on the tranny?

That said,I have seen a clogged cat convertor cause loss of power,or a fuel pump going bad/dirty fuel filter,sticking e-brake.
 

.of no return

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1984
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I had the transmission work done by my buddies uncle who has his own shop. When they were doing the tranny he told me he'd warranty his work, but we didn't write anything down. He also is the one that did the dual exhaust, the pipes are running clean from the headers to tips, no catalytic convertor, there are no emissions where I live. I've replaced the fuel filter twice, and that damn mechanical fuel pump once a few months back. I will check on that e-brake when I get back, thanks, I hadn't thought about that.
 

enginepaul

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My first guess would be the transmission. Maybe take it to another shop and ask if they can find the leak and go from there. On the bright side, that engine should run over 150,000 miles.
Good luck and let us know what happens.


Many state have an 'implied warranty' law. That means anything should work as intended for a reasonable time. So if it failed in a very short time, they will have to fix or refund your money, but you may need to sue in small claims if you can't work it out. The best solution is to try and work it out with the mechanic.
 

.of no return

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right on enginepaul
 

Eric Kropp

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Manual
Make sure the "spout" wire on the distributor pig tail didn't come un-plugged in all the rig-a-marole. Give us a little more to work with. Does the engine start and idle fine? Where does it seem to be most lacking power: top end, low end? On hills that it normally goes up in 3rd or 4th does it down shift to 2nd? Some comparison might make it easier to help you.

Eric<><
 

.of no return

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Just got the Bronco back from the shop. Said they tightened some bolts on the top of the tranny. I'll hit the highway next week, thats when it showed the leak last time so we'll see what happens. I need an inexpensive solution to the tires rubbing the fender wells when I turn. Anyone have bad experiences with blocks?
 

B2 Addict

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Solid Axle Swap 4x4
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Just got the Bronco back from the shop. Said they tightened some bolts on the top of the tranny. I'll hit the highway next week, thats when it showed the leak last time so we'll see what happens. I need an inexpensive solution to the tires rubbing the fender wells when I turn. Anyone have bad experiences with blocks?
What ever happened, did you get everything straightened out?

Blocks are used in the rear & will not do anything to keep tires from rubbing when you turn.You can either trim the fenders some or you can get a 1" coil spring spacer to go on the front & that will probably fix the rubbing problem, then if you need to bring the rear up level with the front you can get blocks from 1" up to 3". I have never had a problem with blocks & have been running them for 13 yrs. As long as you don't stack blocks or go over 3" you are ok.
 

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