Possibly dropping 3" body lift, help needed

AKBroncoII · Nov 8, 2008

I am looking to cut my body lift in half to 1.5"s. Currently, my intake tube won't clear my fan. I am running 36" tires and have 11''s from the top of my tires in the front to the fender.

Picture of current clearance. I am a bit worried about the rear tire clearance after drop with extended wheelbase. I may only be able to drop 1" before my Efan is too close to the water pump pulley. Any opinions would be much appreciated.

anyone cut there body lift in half? I have a slip shaft ujoint shaft that will be going in for my steering shaft.

grey ghost · Nov 8, 2008

that's one sweet looking b2 do you have any more pics?

AKBroncoII · Nov 8, 2008

http://www.alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=30048

Link to some of the build.

dogboy · Nov 9, 2008

Is the intake tube the only reason you need to cut the body lift?

If it is, then why don't you just modify the intake tube to clear the fan?
That's what I'd do.

AKBroncoII · Nov 9, 2008

There is no way currently to get it to clear and not look like crap. I also wouldn't mind having it dropped just a hair. 3" body lift is a bit much for me anyways. Looks funny and puts a lot of stress on the body bolts. I think I'm gonna go for it and cut them in half.

CopyKat · Nov 9, 2008

Do it. Mine is a 1.25"

Are you running the explorer Auto (thick) rad? I found I couldn't use it with the E-fan. I ended up going back with a Manual (Thin) rad and have not had any issues with cooling.

Look for a B2 Auto rad. They are thin and have the side tanks for the trans cooler. Or just run a large external cooler.

AKBroncoII · Nov 10, 2008

Yes, running the explorer auto radiator. My taurus fan fits but is tight as I had to trim the shroud down just a tad. Remolded it with some heat. When I pull the body loose I'm going to shove it forward just a tad, maybe 1/8" more just to give me a little more clearance. I Currently have two external factory coolers and the radiator cooler. I'd like to swap to the large B&M at one point but the factory ones fit nicer.

CopyKat · Nov 10, 2008

You might end up having to cit the fan out of the plastic shroud and make a new aluminum one. I've seen it done I just don't remember where I saw the pictures.

Moving the rad forward some will help but not enough. The rad needs to move forward more than 1/8" a good 1/2-3/4" would be better.

Sloue mounded up a pretty sick oil cooler for his V8 swap. Looks like it fits good.

Just ditch the auto Andrew and run a manual. they you don't have to worry about that stinken cooler. I've run the thin manual rad ever since I had the truck running and it's been fine. I run about 180-200° during the summer with the e-fan on low. That's in bumper to bumper traffic. This with the thin manual rad. I've looked around on RPS and that is about the normal opperating temp for the 4.0L.

AKBroncoII · Nov 10, 2008

I'm not a big manual fan for offroading. I do enjoy shifting a manual every day though. A4LD will stay. Right now, I have proper clearance from the fan. I need to measure and see how much I will have when I drop though. I could cut down the spacers on the factory shroud and move the fan closer to the radiator. What is an acceptable distance to keep from the fins? I only have maybe 3/16" from the fins currently, maybe 1/4".

Oh yeah, when I say that the fan is close, I mean the actually motor to the pulley not the shroud. The shroud is just in the way for the intake.

Possibly dropping 3" body lift, help needed

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