2 topics: driving chirping and not running belt to ac comp?

Shotokan1509 · Aug 28, 2007

Two topics.. couldn't really put them in a category. By the way, good to be back registered with TRS, been busy but still lurked a bit.

95 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto trans manual hubs

1.) Low speed I hear a chirping, I am guessing drivers side front. The chirping stops if I touch the brakes, and I do not think I hear it at higher speeds. Everything brake job 15-20k ago.. bearings 5k ago. Slight shudder under hard braking, but not a full on warped feel.

2.) Last summer I tried to recharge my a/c and found the leak because the recharge blew a line completely off. I never fixed it and well.. i am guessing my compressor is junk since that line was not capped for a while. Do you think I should run a shorter belt to skip the compressor completely?

Sunk · Aug 28, 2007

The squeak could be a bent dust shield touching the rotor...I'd check that before you take anything apart, or it could be a pad dragging.

And the previous owner of my truck removed the A/C compressor so it has a shorter belt on it.... I couldn't tell you if its still good though.

Wicked_Sludge · Aug 28, 2007

why would your compressor be junk? if you want A/C you can just flush and evacuate the system. if you dont want it, just let your current belt right the compressors idler pulley...it wont hurt anything.

or you can convert the compressor for on-board-air use

Shotokan1509 · Aug 29, 2007

Wicked_Sludge said:
why would your compressor be junk? if you want A/C you can just flush and evacuate the system. if you dont want it, just let your current belt right the compressors idler pulley...it wont hurt anything.

or you can convert the compressor for on-board-air use

I "capped" the line (tape).. at some point in the middle of last winter I lost the tape and the line (to the top of the compressor) was open to the elements. Just assuming it got junked up. At this point I won't be trying to fix it this summer.

Sunk said:
The squeak could be a bent dust shield touching the rotor...I'd check that before you take anything apart, or it could be a pad dragging.

When I did the full brake job I put reman'ed calipers on. Think I just need to regrease the slides? Obviously I really just need to take the wheel off, but need to find the time.. I have to tear apart the parents Taurus dash first.. all the instrument bulbs are burnt out = no speedo at night.

MAKG · Aug 29, 2007

A hard-braking-only shudder is often due to marginal rotors. They get a little too hot and warp temporarily. If this is going on, measuring runout on a cold rotor will very often yield good results. Measure the thickness. If it's below or near minimum, replace the rotors. Warped rotors will shudder under all braking conditions, down to a dead stop.

Shotokan1509 · Sep 3, 2007

MAKG said:
A hard-braking-only shudder is often due to marginal rotors. They get a little too hot and warp temporarily. If this is going on, measuring runout on a cold rotor will very often yield good results. Measure the thickness. If it's below or near minimum, replace the rotors. Warped rotors will shudder under all braking conditions, down to a dead stop.

I'll take a gander sometime this week.

Any opinions on whether I should bypass the never used a/c compressor?

Wicked_Sludge · Sep 3, 2007

bypassing the compressor wont accomplish anything...but if your addiment about bypassing it, it wont hurt anything to do so.

2 topics: driving chirping and not running belt to ac comp?

Shotokan1509

New Member

Sunk

New Member

Wicked_Sludge

New Member

Shotokan1509

New Member

MAKG

New Member

Shotokan1509

New Member

Wicked_Sludge

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Latest posts

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

Latest Album Photos

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals