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- Joined
- Oct 11, 2009
- Messages
- 610
- Reaction score
- 9
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- 0
- Age
- 37
- Location
- Somerdale, NJ
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 3.slo
- Transmission
- Automatic
Well, since I have a pretty decent engine and little rubber mounts were not going to cut it. Plus I have tons of performance parts from my totaled mustang.
This mod applies to 2wd trucks, 4wd is untested. I'm using a carbed motor, I'm not sure how tall a EFI is compared, just might not clear if it's EFI.
I had a pair of fox body prothane motor mounts, there was one guy who did the same thing as me but he never went into detail of how to do it.
The engine sit perfectly from to back side to side. Sits a little high but should clear the hood, if not run a cowl or just the hood frame work on the under side.
If you're running a tremec just flip the shifter around from the stock configuration and it fits up in the stock shifter hole, no need to cut the floor.
Here's how.
1. You will need to disassemble the mounts and grind off the existing stud, this stud is in the wrong spot and it is also too large, you could drill out the holes in the cross member, but I had already dropped the engine in and didn't want to pull it again.
Once the bolts are cut out, reassemble them and mount them to the motor.
2. The transmission cross member needs to modified or replaced accordingly.
Tremec tko series trans move the mount back a bit, a t5 may need an adapter plate to bolt to the cross member with new holes. a tremec or a t5 that will line up and rest on the cross member all you need to do is re-drill holes about a half inch inwards from the ranger outer holes and then elongate them towards the front side of the cross member all the way to the bend. Once that is done just use heavy washers under the mount bolts.
3. Once your member is modified or replaced with an aftermarket, get the engine and trans inside the ranger, use the trans crossmember to align the engine. Try to get the engine as far forward as possible once the trans is loosely bolted, this will ensure it is 100% straight and in line with the axle.
Now that it's in, let the engine come to rest on the cross member, using a level to check that it's level. You can also then adjust how far forward or back the engine sits.
4. Once that is done, go under the truck with a sharpy and mark the mounts through the hole on each side the original mounts used.
Lift the engine and remove the mounts, disassemble and then drill where you marked using a 1/2 bit.
5. This next part will require welding, doesn't need to be perfect, just need to keep the bolt from spinning when you bolt down the mounts. A few tacks are just fine. Weld the new 1/2 x 1 1/4 bolt, preferably grade 8, but 5 will do.
6. This next step is VERY important, use a little grease on the head of the bolt and hand fit the mount together, the grease will leave a print where the bolt head makes contact with the urethane insert. Use a 7/8 spade bit to drill the urethane about 1/4 deep. This give the bolt somewhere to sit in. You'll also notice the 2 other spots from the factory like this.
7. Reinstall on the motor, you need to lift the motor up high and push from side to side to wrestle the mounts in between the engine and cross member.
Use flanged whiz nuts to bolt the engine mounts to the frame, the passenger side needs a 13/16 deep well, and a swivel right after the socket.
After that, lower the engine down about 1/4 from the mounts and install the bolts. You may have to loosen the trans and jack it up to get the holes to line up on the engine.
8. Torque everything to specs.
Enjoy you urethane mounts, better than stock rubber, and safer than solid L&L mounts.
Plenty of room for my universal aluminum rad and electric fan.
This mod applies to 2wd trucks, 4wd is untested. I'm using a carbed motor, I'm not sure how tall a EFI is compared, just might not clear if it's EFI.
I had a pair of fox body prothane motor mounts, there was one guy who did the same thing as me but he never went into detail of how to do it.
The engine sit perfectly from to back side to side. Sits a little high but should clear the hood, if not run a cowl or just the hood frame work on the under side.
If you're running a tremec just flip the shifter around from the stock configuration and it fits up in the stock shifter hole, no need to cut the floor.
Here's how.
1. You will need to disassemble the mounts and grind off the existing stud, this stud is in the wrong spot and it is also too large, you could drill out the holes in the cross member, but I had already dropped the engine in and didn't want to pull it again.
Once the bolts are cut out, reassemble them and mount them to the motor.
2. The transmission cross member needs to modified or replaced accordingly.
Tremec tko series trans move the mount back a bit, a t5 may need an adapter plate to bolt to the cross member with new holes. a tremec or a t5 that will line up and rest on the cross member all you need to do is re-drill holes about a half inch inwards from the ranger outer holes and then elongate them towards the front side of the cross member all the way to the bend. Once that is done just use heavy washers under the mount bolts.
3. Once your member is modified or replaced with an aftermarket, get the engine and trans inside the ranger, use the trans crossmember to align the engine. Try to get the engine as far forward as possible once the trans is loosely bolted, this will ensure it is 100% straight and in line with the axle.
Now that it's in, let the engine come to rest on the cross member, using a level to check that it's level. You can also then adjust how far forward or back the engine sits.
4. Once that is done, go under the truck with a sharpy and mark the mounts through the hole on each side the original mounts used.
Lift the engine and remove the mounts, disassemble and then drill where you marked using a 1/2 bit.
5. This next part will require welding, doesn't need to be perfect, just need to keep the bolt from spinning when you bolt down the mounts. A few tacks are just fine. Weld the new 1/2 x 1 1/4 bolt, preferably grade 8, but 5 will do.
6. This next step is VERY important, use a little grease on the head of the bolt and hand fit the mount together, the grease will leave a print where the bolt head makes contact with the urethane insert. Use a 7/8 spade bit to drill the urethane about 1/4 deep. This give the bolt somewhere to sit in. You'll also notice the 2 other spots from the factory like this.
7. Reinstall on the motor, you need to lift the motor up high and push from side to side to wrestle the mounts in between the engine and cross member.
Use flanged whiz nuts to bolt the engine mounts to the frame, the passenger side needs a 13/16 deep well, and a swivel right after the socket.
After that, lower the engine down about 1/4 from the mounts and install the bolts. You may have to loosen the trans and jack it up to get the holes to line up on the engine.
8. Torque everything to specs.
Enjoy you urethane mounts, better than stock rubber, and safer than solid L&L mounts.
Plenty of room for my universal aluminum rad and electric fan.
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