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Yeah, I reccomend the torsion crank as well. Maybe a small body lift too...on a 2000, crank the front torsion bars (check out the tech library) and some lift shackles or a taller block in the rear. add some decent shocks and some 31's or 32's and you should be set. on those trucks you cant do a whole lot more without breaking the bank. the other option is a body lift.
See, it is only about 4 percent... That is nothing. You have to be going 100 mph before it is even off by 4, so no worries.Stock Tire - 235/75R15--------------Tire 1 - 30x9.50R15
Section Width: 9.25 in 235 mm----------Section Width: 9.48 in 241 mm
Rim Diameter: 15 in 381 mm ------------Rim Diameter: 15 in 381 mm
Rim Width Range: 6 - 8.5 in ------------Rim Width Range: 6.5 - 8.5 in
Overall Diameter: 28.87 in 733.29 mm --Overall Diameter: 29.99 in 761.74 mm
Sidewall Height: 6.93 in 176.02 mm ----Sidewall Height: 7.49 in 190.24 mm
Radius: 14.43 in 366.52 mm -----------Radius: 14.99 in 380.74 mm
Circumference: 90.69 in 2303.5 mm ----Circumference: 94.21 in 2392.9 mm
Revs per Mile: 720.4 ------------------Revs per Mile: 693.5
Actual Speed: 60 mph 100 km/h -------Speedometer1: 57.7 mph 96.2 km/h
Speedometer Diff: - ------------------Speedometer Diff: 3.878% too slow
Diameter Difference: - -----------------Diameter Difference: 3.74%
Size Converter: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp
Something is lying to you. Basic proportional math will show you that your needle should be farther off the faster you go. That's interesting that your inaccuracy isn't speed-variable.I don't know if this will help, but I put 31x10.50's on my '84 Bll and the speedometer is off by 5 mph.(55=60) that's all speeds. I checked it with a gps.