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ABS Problem, light on, have codes but don't know what to do next


tmatul

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Vehicle - 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 4 wheel abs (1 sensor in each front wheel and one sensor in the rear axle I believe).

Quick history - About a year ago the ABS used to kick in at last moment when stopping - no ABS light, but the front ABS sensors were dirty I believe, so one of the sensors would read 0 mph while the other would still read 2 or 3 mph (used a scan tool to view datastream and verify this). This was causing the truck to think that one wheel was locking up and the abs would kick in. I took out the front sensors, cleaned them and the surface that the sensor mounts on to get rid of the rust buildup. This seemed to fix the problem.

Current problem - Last week I started my truck and during the systems check the overdrive light started blinking. I scanned it for a code and it had something to do with a transmission sensor. There were no driveability issues so I didn't think much of it - I cleared the code and everything was okay. That same day, I started my truck again and the abs light came on and the abs was essentially disabled. The brakes work fine, the fluid, fuse, etc are all okay. I scanned the truck for codes and got a C1145, C1155, and C1233. I drove the truck with the scan tool hooked up to it so I could monitor the wheel speed sensors and neither of the front sensors were giving any reading at all while the back sensor seemed to be working fine. I tried to clear the code and the scan tool would not clear it.

What is my next step? I can't believe both front sensors would fail at the same time? Is there a way to test the sensors before buying new ones? Do you think the ABS Module could be faulty and if so how can I verify that?

Thanks in advance for whatever you can do to get me going in the right direction.
 


Joshs93four-oh

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Sounds likely that the abs module may be at fault. I would think that the only way to diagnose the problem would be to check the continuity of all wires from the module harness to their destinations. Of course, look into and make sure that the transmission code is not related; and no other problems can exist in order to diagnose it this way. You will need a wiring diagram, a digital meter, and a repair manual with a component locator to find all sensors/components connected to the module. One way to null out the rare possibility of failure of both the speed sensors would be to check for AC voltage output at the sensor ends while spinning the wheel being tested. The voltage will be consistent with the speed of the wheel. Dont backprobe the sensors, disconnect them from the vehicle harness. This wont test too well for intermittent output but at least you can verify whether the sensors are completely dead or not. This idea of mine is based on my knowledge of theory and operation of any abs system; it is not really vehicle-specific but testing wires for opens, shorts to ground, etc. I think would be the same for pretty much all cars and trucks. I hope you get it figured out! Josh
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ambsdric

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the flashing od light means that there is something wrong with your overdrive. it will drive okay for a while but it will start to go south on you soon. you might want to have it checked
 

MAKG

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Multiple codes and/or electrical faults are a hint that perhaps your wires aren't doing what you think they are. There may be nothing wrong with your OD OR with your ABS. But a bad body ground (for instance) might confuse both of them.
 

Bent Bolt

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You didn't say what exactly the DTC was for the trans. Possibly P0500 ( or P0501,P0502 or P0503 --VSS ) ??? The VSS signal comes from the rear diff to the ABS module then to the PCM.
Based on the current DTC's in the ABS, have a look at the sensors again. Check for corrosion in the connectors and whatnot.
 

tmatul

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Thanks for all of the good suggestions. I will try and test the sensors tonight for signal coming from the front wheels and will also try cleaning any connectors I can find.

I am also wondering about there being good ground. I'll have to get a manual and/or wiring diagram to see exactly where the ground is (BTW - I can't recall what the transmission code was - I might be able to scan it and get any codes that were in history ???).

Beyond that - any ideas on testing or replacing the eBay module? Is it fairly easy to replace it? I've seen some on eBay for around $75. I'm wondering if it might be worth it to buy a new one and give it a shot. If that's not the problem I can always resell it - plus $75 doesn't get you much diagnosis time at a shop.
 

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