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Go Back   The Ranger Station Forums > Truck Discussions > Mazda B-Series Specific

Mazda B-Series Specific Addressing issues specific to the Mazda B-Series trucks

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Old 12-18-2010, 03:24 PM   #1
mterrase
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Question Help with removing bed of 1995 mazda b2300

Do I need to remove the bed to get to the fuel pump? If so, what toold will I need and what's involved as far as time? Also, Will I break any brackets doing this? Just want to know that up front in case I need to be prepared to get new brackets or bolts etc.

I do not know what the heck I am doing but my truck just won't start anymore. I was able to start it with sprays of ether but that doesn't work anymore.

So, first I need to get the bed off so I can get to the gas tank to get to the pump.

Is there anyone out there can point me in the right direction please?

I am almost certain I need to change the fuel pump.
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:17 PM   #2
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Don't have a bed but if i remember it is a 55 torx bit(not 100%) and 6 of them and that's all that is to it.
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:27 PM   #3
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Before that I would look at the fuel filter much easier to fix. Is it a fuel issue or spark issue? Yes it takes torx bit to remove bed or you could drop the tank itself. What brought you to believe it was the pump? I might be able to help along with others.
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:03 PM   #4
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Default Fuel pump

I think it's the fuel pump b/c when I give it gas it kills. The only way to keep it running is to spry ether and then it runs but... no either=no run. So thats why I think it's the fuel pump. But I prob. need to change the filter as well.
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:04 PM   #5
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Oh, thanks for responding! I appreciate your time.
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:26 AM   #6
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55 torx and I think a 7mm to disconnect the fuel filler neck from the bed, and you can undo the tail-light connections with your fingers.


I agree on the filter change first. It's MUUUCH easier than doing a fuel pump. Plus, as old as your truck is, you need to replace it any way. When I changed mine out, the gas I dumped out was orange.


Rent a fuel pressure gauge from autozone and take a look at your pressure. It should be between 30-40psi. Mine sits right around 32.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:51 AM   #7
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If you take the bed off:

Its 6 big torx bolts

One tail light harness

and 3 small screws at the filler neck.

Have you and a friend pick the bed up, and move it back about 2 feet and set it back down on the frame.
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Old 12-19-2010, 07:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mterrase View Post
I was able to start it with sprays of ether but that doesn't work anymore.
you might have multiple issues? check your fpr?
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:01 AM   #9
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In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:36 AM   #10
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Fair warning, an impact wrench on those bed bolts is NOISY. It turns your entire bed into a percussion instrument. It's a great way to piss off the neighbors, I had the cops called on me for doing it at 8pm. Use a breaker bar and pipe extension, it works better on bolts that attach to loose clips anyway and you'll still have your hearing afterwards.
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Last edited by TheTopher; 12-19-2010 at 08:41 AM.
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