2.8 Duraspark/Metering Valve

85_Ranger4x4 · Aug 21, 2007

Does anyone have the instructions for making a metering valve for the carb on a Durasparked 2.8? I decided I am going to bite the bullet and do it, and rather than replace my rebuilt carb I will just tweek it to do what I want. Before I scour the internet archives I thought I would see if someone else already had it saved. Also if anyone that has done this has any words of advice before I get into it I would appreciate it.

BobR · Aug 22, 2007

IIRC, there's instructions in the missing TRS threads.

say thankyou John!

Bob

martin · Aug 30, 2007

If you can't find the information I'll see if I can find the photo's and then just re-write the instructions. I was hoping someone had saved it somewhere.

85_Ranger4x4 · Aug 30, 2007

I didn't see the need because I figured I would always be able to search and there it would be. :shok:

enginepaul · Aug 30, 2007

Very little help, but a start.
Martin's metering block replaces the electric valve that admits air to lean the carb - at the rear pointing to the firewall. I can't post pics that would make it clear, but here is the original description:

Martin's 2.8 Metering Block

How it works;
The large oval hole is where the air enters, air is taken from top of the carb
The larger of the round holes is the high speed bleed.
The small round hole is the idle bleed.
When the screws are screwed in to completely cover the holes it causes a full rich condition and when the holes are open the mixture is full lean.
For tuning, the best place to start is to adjust the screws to full rich, warm up the motor and then start to lean it out gradually until you find a setting you like. you can use output from the o2sensor to make the adjustments if you like.

how it's made;
find a piece of 1/2" thick material, nylon, teflon a piece of very dense wood would probably work.
remove the mixture solenoid from the carb and cut a piece of material the same shape and size. You can use the gasket as a pattern. Then procede to drill the holes. if you use the photo's and the gasket as a guide it should be self explanetary. The large screw is 1/4" x 20, the small screw is 10-24. If you look on the photo's you will see I have put rubber tubing on the screws to prevent them from vibrating loose.

let me know what you think.

take care.
Martin.

85_Ranger4x4 · Aug 30, 2007

Thanks, that should help. I should have all the parts rounded up for the ignition shorty as they boxed the collar wrong for the rebuilt distributer. Going on vacation this weekend and should hopefully get started on this swap next weekend. I just need to find a chuck of plastic 1/2" thick.

martin · Aug 31, 2007

cuting board?

smokey · Aug 31, 2007

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/500837/3
this is the metering block by martin with pics of it

martin · Aug 31, 2007

Thanks Smokey, nice to know someone had it posted somewhere.

smokey · Sep 2, 2007

I think I first posted that on August 08, 2004 when you emailed it to me.
I would post the link but it always got weeded out during the pruning of the posts on the forums

SpecOpsRule! · Sep 29, 2011

I'm new to the Ford Family. So please bare with me. The metering block looks like it goes inbetween the Mixture Control Solenoid and the Carburetor. If not let me know where it goes. Also if i am right then do you still hook up the MC?? What does the metering block do??

dangerranger83 · Sep 30, 2011

It replaces the solenoid all together. And its name does just that, meters out the amount of air/fuel the engine can get that the solenoid did but you do it manualy and once adjusted you are all good.

SpecOpsRule! · Sep 30, 2011

ok so once you make the metering mount it goes between the solenoid and the carburetor?

dangerranger83 · Oct 1, 2011

No, it replaces the solenoid all together.

2.8 Duraspark/Metering Valve

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