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#1 |
New Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 9
Vehicle Year: 1998
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: Commuting, firewood
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'98. 4.0L. Manual. 172k miles. Original owner.
Problem: Leaking rear main seal. New silver-dollar-sized oil spot on the garage floor after sitting for ~24 hours. Two questions: 1. Has anyone tried product like Bar's for "sealing leaks in the rear main seal?" 2. The clutch is original and will need to be reconstructed somewhat soon. How much more work is involved in replacing the rear main seal as part of the clutch job? The idea is to somehow "seal" the leak until the clutch goes and do both jobs at one time. Thanks for your comments. This is a great forum. |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Middle of Nowhere, NY
Posts: 957
Vehicle Year: 2012
Vehicle Make: GMC
Vehicle Model: Sierra 1500
I use this vehicle for: Around the farm, Daily Driver
Rep Power: 19 ![]() ![]() |
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I've heard a lot of good things about bars, haven't tried it. I would like to give it a shot on my F150. it has a rear main leak and like you i'm waiting for my clutch to go before fixing it. 90% of the time the flywheel should be removed to resurface it and get a new pilot bearing anyways, and the rear main seal is right behind the flywheel, so it really isn't any extra work at all.
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#3 |
Lurker
Posts: n/a
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^ Yep. The above sums up what I was going to say.
However, I would stay away from Bar's leaks. I know it kinda works from what I've heard but my personal opinion is that the "fixall in a bottle" stuff is crap. It's best to just fix it, you know? Good luck with it! Sounds like you've had plenty of time behind the wheel of that faithful truck. |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Burlington, WI
Posts: 347
Vehicle Year: 1989
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Bronco II
I use this vehicle for: Wrench, Mud, Rinse, Repeat
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
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depending on how bad a leak it is you may not want to wait too long. Eventually the seal will wear down and the tiny tension spring moulded into it will start scoring the crankshaft output and any seals you put on after that will premie ware out.
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99 Ex Sport 4.0L OHV 4WD 102K 89 BII 2.9L 5 Spd 4x4 197K 97 Ex 5.0L AWD 250K 94 Ex Sport 4.0L OHV 287K-sold |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Austin
Posts: 2,728
Vehicle Year: 2002
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger FX-4 level 2
I use this vehicle for: DD with 31X10.50 Firestone LE's offroad with 31X10.50 MT's
Rep Power: 27 ![]() ![]() |
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99% of rear mail seal leaks are from blowby pressure building inside the engine.. This can, most times, be repaired by SIMPLY installing a new pcv.. The pcv in older engines should be replaced with EVERY oil change!
Clean the vent system...hoses valve and whatever there is.. See what happens. Big JIm |
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#6 |
New Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 9
Vehicle Year: 1998
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: Commuting, firewood
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All good points, especially not delaying the work to avoid scoring the shaft itself and replacing the PCV, which needs to be done anyway. Thank you all.
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#7 |
Member
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I have heard that it is a good practice to replace the rear main seal when doing a clutch job since you already removed the flywheel for resurfacing anyways. About bars leak, isn't that something you don't want to put in your engine if you care about it?
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 169
Vehicle Year: 1993
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT
I use this vehicle for: Daily Driver
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 169
Vehicle Year: 1993
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger XLT
I use this vehicle for: Daily Driver
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
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