Gasket or sealer????

gjm4l · 10-02-2010, 03:03 PM

I'm in the middle of cleaning my intake system for a hard start problem I have a thread up in the 2.3l thread but I'm doing it right now. My question is I found that there's ALOT of crud in the upper intake and I imagine the lower intake and since I'm in the middle of it I really, really, really wanna pull the upper and lower intake off and clean them too. But I don't really have money for the gaskets. Will it just leak like a seive if I just use permatex black to make the gasket? I already know that I should really use a gasket but like I said that would be a project for another day cause I can't afford em now. Anybody tried it with success? OR no, stop, don't! you tard??

PS after this is done a mod can just delete this as I've already got a thread going. Thanks much!

**Mark_88** · 10-02-2010, 03:15 PM

The intake gasket set should include manifold gaskets as well as those for the TB and other parts...only about twenty bucks...I've tossed out two or three sets for FI TBs and other assorted ones over the years because I only needed the manifold to head gasket...

One point I will stress...I've just spent about a month fooling around with timing, spark, carb settings and the likes...only to discover that the carb was not sealed properly...once that was sealed "PROPERLY" all the other symptoms disappeared (like out of timing, spark, or fuel flow)...

So...if you can spring for the gaskets...go that route...unless you know for sure that the gasket goop that you're going to use is resistant to fuel (not like me using a silicone high heat sealant on a carb...DOH~)...

Right now my carb isn't actually sealed "PROPERLY" and I would imagine that my symptoms will appear again as soon as the sealant I used (don't ask) breaks down...and I'm in the same position where springing for a $10 gasket isn't going to happen for a few weeks...

kimcrwbr1 · 10-02-2010, 03:29 PM

What kind or crud are you talking about if it is just in there loose a shop vac should pull most or all of it out. I would not pull the manifold unless your going to put it back together with new gaskets designed for the temps it sees. never use gasket sealer on head or manifold gaskets just new gaskets and torque in the proper sequence and specs.

**adsm08** · 10-02-2010, 03:50 PM

Yeah, RTV is a big no no in place of any gasket that is supposed to seal anything but OIL. If it seals air, actual water (coolant), or ATF, you need the proper gasket (or ATF safe RTV for the last one).

gjm4l · 10-02-2010, 09:37 PM

thanks for the help. I didn't really like the idea and you guys said it was a bad idea so I didn't follow through on the idea. I stopped at the upper intake and cleaned everything out. alot of varnish, deposits and crap in there so I cleaned the hell out of everything. Idles better doesn't stumble on start up and possibly a hp or 2(or not) judging by the butt dyno. Now I really wanna save up and just rebuild the whole engine just for the heck of it.

Thanks for the input. Mods you can delete this whenever you want. I really like this thread btw. Great idea!

Duane867 · 10-02-2010, 11:51 PM

I wont even use the shit on an oil pan.

10-02-2010, 03:03 PM	#1
gjm4l Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Charlotte North Carolina Year: 1992 Make: Ford Model: Ranger xlt, regular cab Engine: 2.3L 4cyl Class: 2wd Used For: speeding ticket prevention, hauling junk and myself around Posts: 462 Rep Power: 9 iTrader: (0)	Gasket or sealer???? I'm in the middle of cleaning my intake system for a hard start problem I have a thread up in the 2.3l thread but I'm doing it right now. My question is I found that there's ALOT of crud in the upper intake and I imagine the lower intake and since I'm in the middle of it I really, really, really wanna pull the upper and lower intake off and clean them too. But I don't really have money for the gaskets. Will it just leak like a seive if I just use permatex black to make the gasket? I already know that I should really use a gasket but like I said that would be a project for another day cause I can't afford em now. Anybody tried it with success? OR no, stop, don't! you tard?? PS after this is done a mod can just delete this as I've already got a thread going. Thanks much! __________________ The thing I love about a mullet is it doesn't just happen. You make that choice
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10-02-2010, 03:15 PM	#2
Mark_88 Einstein I'm NOT Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Uxbridge, Ontario Year: 1988 Make: Ford Model: Multi-year Ranger Engine: 2.3 Carbureted Class: 2wd Used For: Space travel Posts: 13,438 Rep Power: 77 iTrader: (0)	The intake gasket set should include manifold gaskets as well as those for the TB and other parts...only about twenty bucks...I've tossed out two or three sets for FI TBs and other assorted ones over the years because I only needed the manifold to head gasket... One point I will stress...I've just spent about a month fooling around with timing, spark, carb settings and the likes...only to discover that the carb was not sealed properly...once that was sealed "PROPERLY" all the other symptoms disappeared (like out of timing, spark, or fuel flow)... So...if you can spring for the gaskets...go that route...unless you know for sure that the gasket goop that you're going to use is resistant to fuel (not like me using a silicone high heat sealant on a carb...DOH~)... Right now my carb isn't actually sealed "PROPERLY" and I would imagine that my symptoms will appear again as soon as the sealant I used (don't ask) breaks down...and I'm in the same position where springing for a $10 gasket isn't going to happen for a few weeks... __________________ Rome and my Ranger were not built in a day... Last edited by Mark_88; 10-02-2010 at 03:18 PM.
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10-02-2010, 03:29 PM	#3
kimcrwbr1 Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: maplevalley WA Year: 1983 Make: ford Model: ranger Engine: 2.8l Class: 2WD street Used For: DD tow boat Posts: 4,650 Rep Power: 19 iTrader: (0)	What kind or crud are you talking about if it is just in there loose a shop vac should pull most or all of it out. I would not pull the manifold unless your going to put it back together with new gaskets designed for the temps it sees. never use gasket sealer on head or manifold gaskets just new gaskets and torque in the proper sequence and specs. __________________ it takes a nickle to go first class when it stops hurting it will feel alot better
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10-02-2010, 09:37 PM	#5
gjm4l Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Charlotte North Carolina Year: 1992 Make: Ford Model: Ranger xlt, regular cab Engine: 2.3L 4cyl Class: 2wd Used For: speeding ticket prevention, hauling junk and myself around Posts: 462 Rep Power: 9 iTrader: (0)	thanks for the help. I didn't really like the idea and you guys said it was a bad idea so I didn't follow through on the idea. I stopped at the upper intake and cleaned everything out. alot of varnish, deposits and crap in there so I cleaned the hell out of everything. Idles better doesn't stumble on start up and possibly a hp or 2(or not) judging by the butt dyno. Now I really wanna save up and just rebuild the whole engine just for the heck of it. Thanks for the input. Mods you can delete this whenever you want. I really like this thread btw. Great idea! __________________ The thing I love about a mullet is it doesn't just happen. You make that choice
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10-02-2010, 11:51 PM	#6
Duane867 Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Columbus Year: 1993 Make: Ford Model: Ranger Engine: 2.3L Class: 2wd Used For: Daily driver. Fishing vehicle. Use from time to time to run down crack heads. Posts: 2,057 Rep Power: 12 iTrader: (0)	I wont even use the shit on an oil pan.
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