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Old 12-23-2007, 11:13 PM   #1
PaleBlue90
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Default i need a pic or direction of the clutch master cylinder

its for my 89 ranger its a 2.9, i looked on the master for the breaks but didnt look long cuz its freezeing outside. thanx for any help
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Old 12-23-2007, 11:45 PM   #2
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if you take of the plastic inner fenderwell then you can see the slave cylinder then disconect the clutch peddle from the rod on the slave cylinder then from out side the truck twist and pull the slave cylinder and it should just come out the line that goes to the clutch has a pin in it you need to push out to get it off and the resevior line will just pull off
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:01 AM   #3
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thanx, happy holidays
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Old 12-24-2007, 06:29 AM   #4
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"if you take of the plastic inner fenderwell then you can see the slave cylinder then disconect the clutch peddle from the rod on the slave cylinder then from out side the truck twist and pull the slave cylinder and it should just come out the line that goes to the clutch has a pin in it you need to push out to get it off and the resevior line will just pull off"

????..The slave cylinder is in the bell housing. The master cylinder is in front of the clutch peddle in the firewall. Are you sure its bad because when i put my clutch in i just used the old one,. Saved me some pain in the ass..jus a thought
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:38 AM   #5
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i need to drain the fluid, i think i got air in the line and the fluid might have water in it
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:15 AM   #6
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the new master should come with a push rod for the plunger. there is a snap ring/ clip that holds the rod to the pedal. snap that off, un plug the stupid clutch interlock switch right above the master(if equiped). there are 3 bolts on the outside of the fire wall that can be a PITA to get to some times but should be metric. push that metal pin out(dont need it if you get a new master). i reccomend ordering a new master from summit racing because they are all metal and arent the CHEAP ford plastic POS! i have had issues with the ford or cheap replacment ones before. new one from summit will have the pin for the hydro. line, plunger rod, and i would over ride the clutch interlock if you arent a tard and wont try and start the truck with it in gear and the clutch not depressed! (that switch also controls 4x4 too!)

86

if your clutch is f-ed and you drop the trans do yourself a favor and order a zoom clutch kit from summit and a new slave along with the master. the extra 140 is WELL worth it to not have to pull the trans again!

Last edited by 86ford; 12-24-2007 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 12-24-2007, 01:26 PM   #7
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thanx 86...i had to drive it to the mall a short time ago and the whole way bak and forth i had the burning clutch smell........i think ive got hardly any left.......once again my stupid ass skrewed up.....
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Old 12-24-2007, 04:59 PM   #8
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thanx 86...i had to drive it to the mall a short time ago and the whole way bak and forth i had the burning clutch smell........i think ive got hardly any left.......once again my stupid ass skrewed up.....
bud these clutches are smaller than a dinner plate and have less clutch surface than many fwd 4 bangers! you dump the clutch a bunch of times they warp, thats life driving a older 2.9 vehicle. before you buy ANYTHING pull it apart(if you have another vehicle to drive). some times the pressure plate comes loose or something else comes loose. have someone who has done a few clutchs before inspect the clutch disk, flywheel, and pressure plate. if you have a smoked clutch and a beat up flywheel the 4 liter clutch swap mite be good for you. check into it and figure out if you are a good canidate for it. PM me if you need help or advice and i will help ya. or just ask for my AIM account or number. i just got done doing the clutch on my b2 so i am well aware of what you are looking at doing. find some friends (preffer mechanicly skilled), BEER(if you of age,right who am i kidding that means nothing), and a full day and you can hopfully get it apart figure out the problem and put it back together. word to the wise, find a parts store that will let you order parts without pre-paying so if you dont need it you dont have to buy it and/or buy everything you could need and return what you dont. a good way to test your clutch is to pull up to a SOLID prefferably cinder block building and put your front bumper against the building. with your bumper resting against the building slowly let out the clutch in 2nd or 3rd gear and see if you feel it sliping, it starts burning the tire, or you stall out. if it burns the tire you hit the gas to hard, if it stalls right out the actuall clutch is most likely not your problem. if it slips, go get beer and order parts.

86

Last edited by 86ford; 12-24-2007 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 12-24-2007, 06:46 PM   #9
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alright ill pm u if i have any questions, thanx again and merry xmas
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Old 12-24-2007, 10:58 PM   #10
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you 2 bud. its not hard just needs some tricks to be done easily!

86
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:11 PM   #11
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yea my dads done a few clutches, mostly in old vw bugs lol, so hes gonna give me a hand, and i think were gonna do the 4.0 clutch while im at it. btw im only 18, and refuse to drink ever lol, im shure most guys my age say it but i can honestly say i wont.
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Dont kill a ranger cause it will take revenge on the next vehicle you replace it with
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Damn automotive engineers and their vendetta against stupidity...

Last edited by PaleBlue90; 12-24-2007 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 12-25-2007, 12:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
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yea my dads done a few clutches, mostly in old vw bugs lol, so hes gonna give me a hand, and i think were gonna do the 4.0 clutch while im at it. btw im only 18, and refuse to drink ever lol, im shure most guys my age say it but i can honestly say i wont.
WTF is wrong with you?

I'm kidding.

Sort of.
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