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Old 08-07-2009, 12:02 PM   #1
partsguy84823
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Default Self Adjusting vs Non Self Adjusting Clutch

Hey guys, I am looking around at replacing my clutch and I am wondering witch version to buy. At the local O'Reilly they have one SACHS Item #: K70154-02 that they say has a "self adjusting cover". They also have SACHS Item No: K70334-01 and it is "non self adjusting. From my understanding, all hydraulic clutches are self adjusting, so I'm wondering what the difference is between the two. Also, has anyone used these O'Reilly clutches? If so, what do you think? Thanks for the input!
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:23 PM   #2
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Anyone? Anyone at all? I really don't want to have to regret not using the self adjusting clutch, or spending 50 bucks that could have gone towards something else...
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:41 PM   #3
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the adjusting one compensates for the clutch wear if you are useing a cable. your truck uses hydraulics so they compensate for wear. factory ford pressure plate is non adjusting
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Old 08-10-2009, 02:23 PM   #4
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Thanks, that was what I was thinking... so good to see someone else agrees.
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:07 PM   #5
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no problem, i work as a ford service technician so i think i might know haha and i am the trans guy!
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:35 PM   #6
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hey, I know its been a bit since I have posted to this thread, but where in MI are you located jeffro? I have a bunch of family in Beal City (about 5 miles west of Mt. Pleasent, or about 42 miles east of big Rapids).
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Old 08-21-2009, 09:19 PM   #7
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It's a ctually more a matter that the angle of the diaphram "fingers" change as the clutch wears.

And while the slave cylinder has enough surplus travel to deal with that the
fingers start out nearly "Flat" early in the disc's wear cycle, and "tent" towards
the transmission and that changes the geometry and increases pedal effort.

The "adjustable" pressure plate is designed to reduce that effect.

The non-adjustable clutch cover is what leads to the classic symptom
of the clutch getting gradually harder to release just before it starts
it's terminal slide (pun intended) towards replacement.

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Old 08-21-2009, 09:47 PM   #8
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Thanks Allan for the response. I know you are a big advocate of not using stock clutches unless its a 4.0 clutch... but if you were going to install a stock replacement (not saying I am, just gathering ideas) would you get the "self adjusting" version?

Also while I have your attention, do you know why the clutch would be hard to release after a long (say 100 mile) drive on the highway, but fine at all other times?

Thanks everyone for the help!
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You've got to make sure you're using metric Liquid Wrench on metric bolts. That might be your problem.
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:15 PM   #9
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I've never heard of this.

I would go to dialaclutch.com and get the standard LUK for your application. I've had one in my truck since 2001 and it's just like new. Any clutch will last forever as long as you only slip it when you initially start out. After that, never apply the gas unless the clutch pedal is all the way up. That generally entails shifting, counting one-thousand one and then let the pedal up and then accelerate.

When you can get the clutch up without killing the engine, you can drive a stick. The next step is to drive it well. That means not using the clutch to absorb gross differences between the speed of the flywheel and the speed of the input shaft. You waste energy by turning power into heat and you wear out parts that would last forever with a thoughtful person behind the wheel.

I drive my Honda mostly now so I use that as an example. Slip clutch minimal amount to start out, and accelerate to 3,000; clutch in and shift; wait for 1,800; clutch out; accelerate to 3,000; clutch in and shift; wait for 2,000; clutch out; accelerate to 3,000--and so on. I never simultaneously clutch and gas. Even starting out it's mostly clutch at first and as soon as the engine will hold it, it's on its own.
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:54 AM   #10
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Will, thanks for the advice. I've had the truck since 30k miles, and its at 150k now, and I've never replaced the clutch (I assume it wasn't replaced before I got it, lol). It gets lightly wheeled a lot, tows a HUGE (read 4 seater) jet ski, with a bed full of camping gear, almost every weekend of the summer, and the disc still has plenty of meat on it. So I think I can clutch pretty well, I drive it about how you described.

Anyway, I am looking into replacing it because I am getting some goofy hyd. issues, almost like there is a delay in the system. Its weird, but at any rate, I have had fine luck with the stock clutch. So maybe LUK will be where it is at.
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Quote:
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You've got to make sure you're using metric Liquid Wrench on metric bolts. That might be your problem.
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