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#1 |
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Junior Member
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Hey guys. Like the title says, i'm tired of opening the damn door with my key and tired of having to roll-down the window. I LOVE my yellow beast but if i would have to change anything before modding it, its changing that. Has anyone ever done this before? 2002 ranger edge. Thanks
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Between Omaha & Des Moines
Year: 1985
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 5.0
Class: 4x4
Used For: A weapon of massive consumption.
Posts: 11,201
Rep Power: 51 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Are you sure it doesn't have keyless entry? I didn't think my F-150 had it either until I found a brand new remote under the seat and it worked.
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1985 Ford Ranger Custom, 4x4, PA 3" BL, 5.0 HO wannabe, C5 Transmixer, 31 spline T/L 8.8 w/ disc brakes. Build Thread My Ranger is not old; no one would call her old. She has a bluff bow, lovely lines. She's a fine truck: weatherly, stiff and fast... very fast, if she's well handled. No, she's not old; she's in her prime. |
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#4 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Westminster,Colorado
Year: 2002
Make: jeep
Model: wrangler
Posts: 88
Rep Power: 12 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Georgia
Year: 1984,1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Bronco II
Class: 2WD
Posts: 1,348
Rep Power: 14 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Both are doable, but . . .
The remote keyless entry (RKE) is the easier. That's just adding actuators to the door and wiring them to a receiver unit. There's a lot good kits for this out there. The power windows are more complicated. The only aftermarket kit I'm aware of that is decent is SPAL. Transplanting the complete OEM power windows on one that new would be a pain, as the windows are tied into the GEM and I think that a one-touch module is standard. "If it were me" I'd go with a good aftermarket RKE kit on the locks. On the windows I'd get just the OEM motors and regulator assemblies from a donor truck, and wire them straight to a pair of switches. OEM switches would work for this, or aftermarkets. Keep the original door panels "as is", and put trim plugs in the old crank holes. I'd look at mounting the switches central in cab, like in the console or lower dash; that would eliminate the need for a second passenger switch. This approach would give good dependability without really hacking the truck up too badly. Done right, original parts being saved, the truck could be returned to stock later. |
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